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Old 03-16-2017, 06:53 PM   #1
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Removing the Webasto coolant lines safely as to install later

I've already removed the two heaters, I would really like to reinstall them after I put in the flooring but there's a few issues. As of right now the holes are way too large and there was a ton of rust due to that. For those who have gone through this if you have some tips regarding how to get the hoses out safely and not damage them and also how I can reinstall them properly as to not let in all the excess moisture. If this has already been answered many times before my bad I searched and the only thing I came up with is essentially videos on how to rip them out... that I can do, preserving them however seems to be a bit more difficult
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:23 PM   #2
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Don't take me wrong, but are they new hoses? Most people would replace the hoses about this time unless that's already been done.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:31 AM   #3
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Don't take me wrong, but are they new hoses? Most people would replace the hoses about this time unless that's already been done.
If I'm taking them off I might as well replace them now, good call. I guess I should have specified that my main interest is and making sure I can seal the area well enough to where I won't be letting in the moisture when I replace them.

Having never done anything remotely like this I'm just a bit paranoid about screwing it up especially being that we are selling our home and moving into this deal. Super excited but still stressful
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:36 AM   #4
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my main interest is and making sure I can seal the area well enough to where I won't be letting in the moisture when I replace them.
Can you get any sort of bulkhead fittings for that application? Or rubber grommets of some kind that would go over the tubes and seal against the edges of the holes? Maybe some kind of plumbing fixtures/fasteners could be adapted for this application?

I can't offer a ready made solution, but those are the first approaches that come to mind when considering the issue.
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:59 AM   #5
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there are sleeves made for holes going through floors.. I used a bunch of them when I installed A/C in my DEV.. I bouight mine from proair LLC..

I dont see the part numbers on their website.. they came as part of my kits..
-Christopher
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:37 PM   #6
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Can you get any sort of bulkhead fittings for that application? Or rubber grommets of some kind that would go over the tubes and seal against the edges of the holes? Maybe some kind of plumbing fixtures/fasteners could be adapted for this application?

I can't offer a ready made solution, but those are the first approaches that come to mind when considering the issue.

Thanks a lot for your reply, haven't really heard of those before but I knew something like that had to exist. That's definitely the route I'm going to need to go I imagine. Seems like the best possible solution. I've got to imagine others have had to do this as well. I can't be the only one with giant holes in my floor for coolant tubes!
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:43 PM   #7
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there are sleeves made for holes going through floors.. I used a bunch of them when I installed A/C in my DEV.. I bouight mine from proair LLC..

I dont see the part numbers on their website.. they came as part of my kits..
-Christopher
Awesome thanks Cadillac, I'll contact them and see if they offer anything that could help my situation
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:53 AM   #8
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Like these?


Rubber grommet assortment


Lots of auto parts stores have individual grommets for sale. Usually they're in bins near the miscellaneous nuts and bolts.
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Old 03-18-2017, 12:05 PM   #9
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Just a thought?
The less joints or connections the better.
I use bulkhead fittings for my work and they are specific for the installation. Not saying they can't be modified and not saying it hasn't been done.
You can use your solid hose all the way from point a to point b you just need to provide the hose protection at each hanger/anchor and when passing through floors/walls etc.
For me I used a hole saw to fit a piece of PVC pipe that was bigger than what I wanted to put through it. 2" for 1-1/4" OD tubing/hose/pipe or whatever? Caulked with NP-1 cause it was readily available to me at the time.
Anything ran through the sleeve is/was installed with a piece of rubber at any rub point.
For example. All of my electrical ran through a sleeve has a piece/section of old water hose zip tied/panduit strapped to it for rub protection any water line after insulation has some form of protection at each penetration and anchor point and then the penetrations are sealed with caulking inside and out.
Most bulkhead fittings are made to use a fitting on one side to connect to a water tank therefore the modification. Most liquid tight electrical connections are made to connect with with a male adapter to a box but if drilled properly could make a transition from underside to inside.
I chose my sleeve route more because? My options were more open because I was finishing my inside before my underside and the sleeving aloud me room to add wiring and piping after the fact even though the caulking I used is a pain to get through after its cured? I still have the option as needed.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:34 PM   #10
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Have you considered using black or galvanized pipe, maybe even copper too.
Lots of direction changes in the pipe routing are vertical and horizontal so easy to just put 90* bends in where you need,or 45* elbows but not to excess. Then you can insulate them too whether inside or outside bus.
Will outlast you I bet, haha. easy to secure and strap also. And not to expensive.
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