rhino liner floor?

[jjhwick119]

Okay, so i dont want to rhino line the floor of a bus. I am, however, looking at a bus that the floor was rhinolined by the school district.

is that going to screw things up if i want to lay down some flooring? i know that stuff isnt supposed to come off when properly applied with good prep, but some have had luck it seems from the google. im wondering if its flat enough that i can work with it under insulation, or if there is any other concerns im not thinking about with a rhino lined floor?

thanks

[o1marc]

It has a fine texture and is hard. Any rigid insulation you put on top will easily conform to it. I would think you would have fewer concerns as the biggest concern of properly prepping your floor from rust has already been taken care of by the district.

[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by o1marc

It has a fine texture and is hard. Any rigid insulation you put on top will easily conform to it. I would think you would have fewer concerns as the biggest concern of properly prepping your floor from rust has already been taken care of by the district.

thats good to hear. ill wait to see if others have experience to add in, but hopefully it along the same lines. found a mid 80s international 100 miles from me that looks like it may be worth checking out

[BennysTire]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

Okay, so i dont want to rhino line the floor of a bus. I am, however, looking at a bus that the floor was rhinolined by the school district.

is that going to screw things up if i want to lay down some flooring? i know that stuff isnt supposed to come off when properly applied with good prep, but some have had luck it seems from the google. im wondering if its flat enough that i can work with it under insulation, or if there is any other concerns im not thinking about with a rhino lined floor?

thanks

My only concern would be:
How well was the surface prepped before they rhino-ed it? We had a pickup lined when it was brand new, and because of poor prep it rusted out UNDER the liner. Couldn't tell until a floor jack wheel sunk right through it...

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[jjhwick119]

Originally Posted by BennysTire

My only concern would be:
How well was the surface prepped before they rhino-ed it? We had a pickup lined when it was brand new, and because of poor prep it rusted out UNDER the liner. Couldn't tell until a floor jack wheel sunk right through it...

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would banging on the floor with a hammer help tell if there was weak metal (possible rusty area) are is the thickness of the liner going to make it not possible to tell?

if i go see it ill inspect it as best as i can, and i bring my light and lay on the ground for awhile inspecting everything. Being a texas bus, im hoping rust isnt going to be a big concern

edit: also, bennystire, do you know about rims as well as tires? i believe this bus has split rims, which im hearing arent the ideal rims you want where safety is concerned. if i wanted to do normal rims, is that something difficult to do?

[Ronnie]

Split rims are a safety concerns when putting a new tire on the rim. Driving they present problem. I will have to say if you get a flat on the road not everyone ,will work with them, and for me this is the bigger concern. I have changed many a tire on split rims and am still alive to tell about it....it really comes down to the person s knowledge, however that is getting g few and far between.

When it is time for new tires I would get 10.00 x 22.5 radial rims and tires. These will interchange with the old split rims.

[BennysTire]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Split rims are a safety concerns when putting a new tire on the rim. Driving they present problem. I will have to say if you get a flat on the road not everyone ,will work with them, and for me this is the bigger concern. I have changed many a tire on split rims and am still alive to tell about it....it really comes down to the person s knowledge, however that is getting g few and far between.

When it is time for new tires I would get 10.00 x 22.5 radial rims and tires. These will interchange with the old split rims.

Not always... There are many factors that play into switching to tubeless. The most important is what size tube type tire is on there now? 10R22.5 may not be the conversion.

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[BennysTire]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

would banging on the floor with a hammer help tell if there was weak metal (possible rusty area) are is the thickness of the liner going to make it not possible to tell?

if i go see it ill inspect it as best as i can, and i bring my light and lay on the ground for awhile inspecting everything. Being a texas bus, im hoping rust isnt going to be a big concern

edit: also, bennystire, do you know about rims as well as tires? i believe this bus has split rims, which im hearing arent the ideal rims you want where safety is concerned. if i wanted to do normal rims, is that something difficult to do?

It's not usually difficult. Need to know your current tire size.

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[Ronnie]

Usually a 10.00 x 22.5 will give a a just slightly larger diameter then a 9.00 x 20 on a split rim. I suppose my real point is there are tubeless rims available for "Dayton wheels " these are,22.5 diameter. Choose your width to match what you need.

[BennysTire]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Usually a 10.00 x 22.5 will give a a just slightly larger diameter then a 9.00 x 20 on a split rim. I suppose my real point is there are tubeless rims available for "Dayton wheels " these are,22.5 diameter. Choose your width to match what you need.

Your point that a 22.5" tubeless wheel fits a Dayton spider that currently has a 20" tube-type is valid.
My point is that there are many factors to consider. It would do the readers of this thread a disservice to have them assume a set of 10R22.5 tires will automatically fit...

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[Thomas1985]

I'm actually planning on rhino lining my floor. It'll be easy to clean up and waterproof. My first bus we used carpet simply because we like it but after a few years it needs replaced

[Robin97396]

I thought that was the point of carpet. When it doesn't look so fresh it gets rolled up and pushed out.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

I thought that was the point of carpet. When it doesn't look so fresh it gets rolled up and pushed out.

I wouldnt put carpet in any kind of mobile rig unless it was never going to be driven in the rain or into a campground.. or it was always shoes off at the door every time.. carpet is surely nice and Home-like but even heavy duty auto carpet gets dirty so easily.. hard floor is the only way id go.. if you like warm n fuzzy drop some throw rugs that you can hose off easily on the next sunny warm day..
-Christopher

[Robin97396]

For those of us in colder areas, who also didn't insulate our floors, carpet is a good way to improve how warm our feet feel.

I use short nap carpet and I do hose it down on a summer day if it's worth the effort of saving it. I have had to order a lot of gravel to keep myself out of the mud though.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

For those of us in colder areas, who also didn't insulate our floors, carpet is a good way to improve how warm our feet feel.

I use short nap carpet and I do hose it down on a summer day if it's worth the effort of saving it. I have had to order a lot of gravel to keep myself out of the mud though.

It's a narrow area. A few rugs on the floor ... they can go in the washing machine occasionally.

[Robin97396]

The cold floor I've experienced has been enough of an issue that that I plan to insulate with rigid insulation and ply. I'd expect the reverse problem in hot weather. Oregonians are delicate. We wilt in high humidity. I'd rather be complaining about air conditioning blues, from a much warmer climate obviously.

[ben2go]

Rhino line or most any paint on bed liner has a rough surface. If foam board is laid on top, it will act like sandpaper on the foam and wear it away over time because of vibrations and shaking while driving.

[Robin97396]

The insulation would have to actively slide across the top of the bedliner product. It seems like the rough surface would prevent the insulation from sliding around. I mean if we're talking about the same thing there's going to be some weight on the flooring surface over the insulation. Even with a floating floor installation I cant imagine the insulation sliding around, but I'm no expert in insulation or construction for that matter.

On my first bus I put Blackjack roof repair on my badly rusted steel subfloor using a large tile comb before covering with 3/4 ply. It actually worked well and didn't smell even in the summers. It was the window design on that first bus that rotted out the floor originally. It's been about 30 years and it's rotted out again, but I'm guessing that coating of tar on the floor is still keeping that steel subfloor from rusting.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

The insulation would have to actively slide across the top of the bedliner product. It seems like the rough surface would prevent the insulation from sliding around. I mean if we're talking about the same thing there's going to be some weight on the flooring surface over the insulation. Even with a floating floor installation I cant imagine the insulation sliding around, but I'm no expert in insulation or construction for that matter.

On my first bus I put Blackjack roof repair on my badly rusted steel subfloor using a large tile comb before covering with 3/4 ply. It actually worked well and didn't smell even in the summers. It was the window design on that first bus that rotted out the floor originally. It's been about 30 years and it's rotted out again, but I'm guessing that coating of tar on the floor is still keeping that steel subfloor from rusting.

I plan on glueing down the rigid isolation, so I doubt it's going to be moving and sanding itself down.

[Robin97396]

I'm not even going to use glue. The weight of the ply, not to mention furnishings inside the bus, will hold the floor down. Even for what you guys call a floating floor, I put a few screws here and there just to pin things down where the edges of the ply meet.