Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-30-2019, 09:00 PM   #1
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,298
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Roof Raise Question

Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2019, 09:34 PM   #2
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 88
That seems too personal to answer. 10 inches is a lot, unless you want bunk beds, a really tall fridge, or lots of upper cabinet space there’s not really much benefit.

Cons obviously would be less height under overpasses.
Iqinsanity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2019, 10:25 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 154
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E-Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.
I just did an 18" raise on a bus for a friend so I'll chime in on my thoughts.

Pros:
1) The feeling of Claustrophobia, gone!
2) Since this bus has no underbelly storage, they now have lots of room for storage space/shelf inside the bus. They plan on installing taller cabinets for this.
3) Bunk Beds, they no can go 3 high and not feel like they are packed into a sardine can.
4) looks a hell of a lot nicer with an 18" lift than at stock height

Cons:
1) this bus is going to be under 12'6" so yes, got to watch out for low bridges and low tree limbs.
2) taller bus will catch cross winds more than a standard bus.

My friends bus is only a 35 footer with a short wheel base.

My bus, I thinking of 24" but I'll probably settle at 20". Don't like that frankenstein brow and not sure if I am gonna do a sloped transition yet.

But mine is a 40 footer with a wide wheelbase and lots of underbelly storage, but then I plan on putting in a 2 level murphy bed with a washer and drier underneath, on the floor. That's the goal anyway...

The two buses in the pic, the one on the left got the 18" lift and the one on the right is mine.
It is really impressive when you look at them side by side!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg side by side.jpg (199.3 KB, 70 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2019, 10:56 PM   #4
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 183
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
For me the obvious was the headroom. I am somewhat tall and so are some of my friends and relatives. Here are some quick pros and cons:

Pros:
1. Adding thicker insulation on both floor and ceiling.
2. Able to do a large Murphy bed or several bunks.
3. Taller cabinets and more storage.
4. Larger TV that can be mounted higher.
5. Fresh water tank can be inside under bed and still be able to have plenty headroom.
6. Taller bathroom/Rain head shower.
7. Stackable washer/dryer.
8. Able to add transition window or larger windows for more natural light.

Cons:
1. More expense and extended conversion time.
2. Potential clearance issues on some low bridges.
3. Increased Heating/Cooling BTU requirements.
4. Driving during high side winds can be more difficult.
5. Added weight of metal and other materials.
6. Goofy appearance if to tall.
7. More area to clean and maintain (inside and out).
GWRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2019, 10:57 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,298
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Is the E door on that raise now 18" off the floor? The raise I'm asking about will be a 40'er. Has under storage on both sides. Being RE, I can utilize a lot of space between the frames rails not available on an FE.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 07:43 AM   #6
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 19,088
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.
10" is all the roof raising any sane person needs.

The more subtle the raise the easier it is to make it look good.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 08:08 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central missouri
Posts: 66
Excellent OP and excellent comments. We need another that posts pros and cons of the full raise and the sloped raise.
MacC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 09:07 AM   #8
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 154
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E-Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Is the E door on that raise now 18" off the floor? The raise I'm asking about will be a 40'er. Has under storage on both sides. Being RE, I can utilize a lot of space between the frames rails not available on an FE.
Yes, the "E" door was raised 18"!

Why - The first thought was that it would be easier to reinstall as the top of the door is curved to match the roof so no mods needed to be done.

Second, to walk out that door, if needed, you don't need to bend down as much. It is much easier to just raise your leg.

Third - there is also the back "E" door which was left in place. so no need to have two doors in where a tall person had to really hunch down to get in and out of.

We have considered replacing the window on that door with an RV window that slides open so while sleeping you can let the cool, fresh night air come in!

Also, we are thinking about locating a storage box that we could put inside the bus, on the floor and place it under the door, accessible from outside the bus, for tools, cables, oil storage.
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 09:13 AM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 1,395
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
Second, to walk out that door, if needed, you don't need to bend down as much. It is much easier to just raise your leg.
Jeez, I'm just imagining the face plant when I catch my foot on that lip.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 10:38 AM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,658
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Sorry Marc.

I have no explanation. 8"-12" seems plenty for most applications.

Walking into my bus, after the 10" roof raise, it seems soon much more spacious. Plenty of room for insulation and still accommodate 6'2" guests comfortably.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2019, 01:47 PM   #11
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 154
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E-Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Jeez, I'm just imagining the face plant when I catch my foot on that lip.

Yeah or how about that cracked skull from looking up to early wehn walking out the back door!

LMAO....
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 08:52 AM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Gulfport, MS
Posts: 64
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird All American Re
Engine: Cat 3126
I was originally planning on a 10-12" raise but figured if I'm going to do it then I should DO IT! Two things prompted me to go 18".
1) If I use 4ft wide sheet metal to skin and don't cut it, it fits nicely on about an 18" lift.
2) 18" lift would allow me to accommodate a loft-like bunk for my kid in the sleeping area of the bus.
bridg73988 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 08:55 AM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Gulfport, MS
Posts: 64
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird All American Re
Engine: Cat 3126
Oh, and while we are talking roof raising...does anyone have a good source for hat channel (ribs) or know of a good place to get it made in the New Orleans, LA to Mobile, AL area?
bridg73988 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 10:27 AM   #14
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 19,088
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bridg73988 View Post
Oh, and while we are talking roof raising...does anyone have a good source for hat channel (ribs) or know of a good place to get it made in the New Orleans, LA to Mobile, AL area?
Any fab shop with a press brake should be able to make em.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 11:57 AM   #15
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Sorry Marc.

I have no explanation. 8"-12" seems plenty for most applications.

Walking into my bus, after the 10" roof raise, it seems soon much more spacious. Plenty of room for insulation and still accommodate 6'2" guests comfortably.

I am 6'3" - would you recommend going 12" at that point?
JLPILES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 02:20 PM   #16
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 19,088
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLPILES View Post
I am 6'3" - would you recommend going 12" at that point?
I had a standard low roof. Raised it 10". New owner is 6'3" and can stand ON the wheel wells and still have room.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 02:37 PM   #17
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,658
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
I went 10" and have plenty of clearance. Pics:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pn...tml#post267633
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 03:36 PM   #18
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,298
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I'm looking at having a quantity of hat channel made. These need to be the same length as the raise, butt welded and then the square tube welded into the channel, correct?
Does it really matter if they are cold rolled or galvanized?
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 03:48 PM   #19
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,298
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I went 10" and have plenty of clearance. Pics:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pn...tml#post267633
How much overlap did you use on the tubing?
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2019, 03:59 PM   #20
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 19,088
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I'm looking at having a quantity of hat channel made. These need to be the same length as the raise, butt welded and then the square tube welded into the channel, correct?
Does it really matter if they are cold rolled or galvanized?
I'd skip the "hat" and just have some SNUG fitting C channel made.
That would give you more flexibility.
The way those guys are making and selling that hat channel in Colorado makes no sense to me. But I understand why they're just cashing in.
I'd use hot rolled if its cheaper.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×