Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-25-2007, 09:06 PM   #11
Bus Nut
captainkf's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rossland BC, Canada
Posts: 433
Year: 1985
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: 366 propane
Rated Cap: 56
I also read on this board a while back where someone used a high quality lubricant on the leaves which allowed them to move again and they seemed to think it made a noticable difference.

Once you get your conversion done it will settle out a bit. I have a 98 gal water tank in the back of the bus and that makes a difference when it's full.

Good luck with the family. You could always try a bit of Gravol before the trip, because a sleeping wife and kids might not be so bad either . And much cheaper than an air ride system .

captainkf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2007, 09:24 PM   #12
Bus Crazy
Elliot Naess's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,148
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
Lubrication would no doubt help, but you also don't want oil all over the U bolts -- which has been
known to make them come loose. (This is one reason the Highway Patrol writes tickets for oil and
grease on the chassis.) Oil also attracts dirt. The best lubrication is strips of nylon
between the leaves, made for the purpose, but you have to take the springs
apart to install that.

An old truckers trick for sliding fifth wheels is to lubricate with liquid soap. Self cleaning! So if
you want to experiment, try a bottle of Palmolive.

But some weight will make a difference. When we took Old #35 to Burning Man last year, the
water and other gear made a big difference.
Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
Elliot Naess is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2007, 09:34 PM   #13
Bus Geek
the_experience03's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saint James, MN
Posts: 2,669
Send a message via MSN to the_experience03 Send a message via Yahoo to the_experience03
The nylon pucks work well although they really are just a bandaid for the real problem which is mass produced leaves that don't quite fit together right. Well made handcrafted leaf springs will have tapers ground into the ends of every leaf and are then painted with a graphite type solution. The end result are springs that move great and don't spit out pucks. Of course that is a high dollar solution.

I will see what I can find out tomorrow.
Skooling state at a time...
the_experience03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2007, 08:22 AM   #14
trx's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 105
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy C-60
Engine: 8.2L Turbo Detroit Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
Send a message via ICQ to trx
If I were you I would take the existing springs (if they are good, not broken) and remove some leafs. There is some guesswork involved on how many to remove. I actually replaced my springs and went with lighter ones, not a cheap option. I think I spent around $700 and a considerable amount of labor! I added helper air springs (5000 lbs) for when I'm hauling but I could probably still loose a leaf or two so the air springs haul more of the weight. My main reason for new springs was to fix a leaning bus, figured bad spring pack. I was wrong, looks like a bent frame. Expensive way to figure out...and the wife is still reminding me of that The side I thought was 'good' actually had a broken main leaf. Air springs can soften the ride if your leaf springs are soft enough and the air springs are carrying some of the weight. I think my new setup gives me a little better ride, but it's always been pretty good with a 5000 vehicle in back.

More info on the spring replacement and photos: ... emId=10496

Helper Air Springs install: ... emId=10529
trx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2007, 11:31 AM   #15
Site Team
crazycal's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,089
This is going to sound stupid, but that's not new for me. A few years back, I bought a van cut-away (van cab and frame) that was an ambulance. The body had been removed for a remount to a new chassis. I told the company that I bought it from that I wanted to mount a 275 gallon tote filled with water on the frame because I would be ready for the nut house after a 2300 mile trip bouncing up and down. They told me not to worry, they would weld up an aluminum box and fill it with concrete, no charge. That thing rode like a Cadillac. Its amazing what 2000 pounds of concrete will do. So... I think if you add some extra weight in the right spot, it would help out a whole bunch. Maybe 55 gallon drums filled with water in the very back of the bus. When you don't need them any more, empty them or use them for grey water. That is the cheap fix. It you want to spend $$$, try one of the options listed above.
I'm hungry!

You Gotta Let Me Fly
crazycal is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Air Ride anyone? Docsgsxr Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 22 01-19-2015 05:13 AM
98 366 running rough Jive Turkey Mechanical and Drivetrains 0 03-03-2011 04:11 PM
T444E running rough frank-id Mechanical and Drivetrains 1 08-26-2010 09:47 AM
rough ride gasleroy Conversion General Discussions 1 10-06-2008 04:47 PM
Out for a ride frank-id Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 6 11-28-2006 03:14 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:08 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.