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Old 05-10-2019, 11:21 AM   #11
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this is what I plan on doing - I've used it for years with great success on a trailer - didn't even have it glued down, just a strip tacked around the edges - it self heals for things like screw holes etc, easily repaired if needed, and on a bus roof should last longer than the bus itself
I wonder if you can paint over that stuff? I'm sure it works great in certain applications, but I'd surely destroy it during installation of either the membrane itself or a vent, solar panel or marker light...I might even forget about it and try to weld something to it.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:40 AM   #12
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this is what I plan on doing - I've used it for years with great success on a trailer - didn't even have it glued down, just a strip tacked around the edges - it self heals for things like screw holes etc, easily repaired if needed, and on a bus roof should last longer than the bus itself

My garage roof at my house doubles as a deck since it's set into the hillside, and the roof was covered with this about 10 years ago. We walk on it daily, and have some lawn furniture on it (without any sharp metal edges, of course) and it has stood the test of time so far! Great stuff, but probably not the best for radiating heat in the summer. Not that it matters on our garage roof...

Chris
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:36 PM   #13
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How thick was your Lexan? I like this idea. If I hadn't already covered the exits with steel I'd probably give it a go.
1/8", anything thicker is overkill and not necessary. 1/8" is what we used for our race car windshields. I won't crack or break. I fit the butyl tape to the Lexan and then predrilled holes for sheet metal screws. If you wait for the temp to go up and then reset the screws it will pull the patch tighter against the butyl tape.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:07 PM   #14
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I wonder if you can paint over that stuff? I'm sure it works great in certain applications, but I'd surely destroy it during installation of either the membrane itself or a vent, solar panel or marker light...I might even forget about it and try to weld something to it.
easy to paint ( and hard to clean up if you accidentally get paint on it ) a water based paint would eliminate any problems possible with oil, alkyd, or 2 component paints - does NOT weld well - lol - for lights etc, I've found it makes it's own gasket - the video shows how to deal with vents - I've attached boards to the roof of my trailer and in 15+ years it hasn't leaked through the screw holes
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Old 05-10-2019, 04:34 PM   #15
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Drew-I used a similar method. I put the butyl tape around the edge of the existing hole, layed the sheet metal over it, then drilled and riveted about an inch outside the butyl tape. No water is getting past the butyl tape, but it is getting through the edges of my unsealed rivets. I've come to the conclusion that I didn't clean up enough of the metal shards & maybe didn't drill a clean enough hole for the rivet to make a good seal. ALso, when I placed the patch, the temperature was only about 40F. THe butyl tape didn't squish down much...it may have left a little gap between the sheets that didn't provide a good square surface to join. My repair yesterday, is almost identical to your method...self tappers, goobered sealant and all.



Native-I saw this stuff at Lowes yesterday when scouting for sealants. I bet you're good to go. I might use it if for some reason I have to do over...hopefully that's not the case.

Thanks for sharing your methods!
man I'm late to the discussion but that sucks!
Its best to drill it off the bus and make sure you de-burr everything.
Sucks to hear about your leaks.

I stuck a scrap of steel up with four screws as a temporary thing on my 2nd bus. No sealant just slapped it up there. It didn't leak!

Keep on keepin on man!
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:42 AM   #16
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.

Sucks to hear about your leaks.

Keep on keepin on man!

No leaks the second time around. Lesson learned.
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:26 PM   #17
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No leaks the second time around. Lesson learned.
Lesson learned second, third, fourth time aroud is still lesson learned! Glad it only took one instructable.
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:56 PM   #18
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Roof sealant..

I actually thought about (when I finally get my bus and start the project) paying for a company to do a spray in bed liner type coating. Like Line-X. Have them do white for the roof, and maybe a different color or colors around the sides. Ha way I’ll never have to worry about a leak or scratches. Plus it will add some strength.. yeah it may cost some change, but to me it would be worth every penny
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:11 PM   #19
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Lanco Ultra Siliconizer

I have used Lanco Ultra Siliconizer on a few projects including my living quarters horse trailer, a 1973 motorhome, and my "Reverse Skoolie" that started out as a Class C motorhome and ended up as a combination school bus and flat bed truck. I have found it easy to apply, attractive, and cost effective.
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:18 PM   #20
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I checked out a new off road truck outfit in town. When I stopped in I noticed they had a 35" paint booth, big enough to pain the bus. Talking to them and walking around a floor covered in bed liner I realized their paint booth was dedicated liner spray booth that they did more than just beds. They had a newer finer texture product they have been shooting. I'm considering ir for places on the walls, but am concerned any texture on the sides will collect dirt.
I wonder how the efficiency of bedliner would be compared to Henry's.
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