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Old 04-25-2017, 11:26 AM   #1
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Rust remover/treatment for unpainted metal?

I'm only familiar with treatments like Ospho when used as a part of a multistep process that ends in painting the metal with something like Rustoleum.

Will it still be effective if I plan to leave the metal untreated?

I ask because there is a small amount of rust remaining on sheet metal that is welded to the floor supports that provide extra surface area. I've removed all the flakes and sanded it down smooth, but wasn't able to get bare metal.

My only goal is to make sure it doesn't spread while leaving the metal bare so I can use adhesives to form a tight, waterproof seal.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:39 PM   #2
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I'm only familiar with treatments like Ospho when used as a part of a multistep process that ends in painting the metal with something like Rustoleum.

Will it still be effective if I plan to leave the metal untreated?

I ask because there is a small amount of rust remaining on sheet metal that is welded to the floor supports that provide extra surface area. I've removed all the flakes and sanded it down smooth, but wasn't able to get bare metal.

My only goal is to make sure it doesn't spread while leaving the metal bare so I can use adhesives to form a tight, waterproof seal.
You can treat it with a vinegar solution. And just rattle can some primer over it. The vinegar works like ospho, just not as fast. Should work on small patches.

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Old 04-25-2017, 12:41 PM   #3
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I understand your question. You're looking for information about how well your adhesive would stick to the paint, as opposed to the adhesive sticking to bare metal. I think you're safe either way, as long as the metal is covered from exposure to air and moisture it shouldn't rust.

Personally I'd treat the rust first in the usual manor to ensure the rust is dead. I don't glue down my flooring. I do use a few screws to secure the flooring in key locations.

I've removed glued down floors a few times and there just doesn't seem to be any good reasons to glue something down that isn't really going to have a tendency to move anyway. By time you put in a few partitions or walls that floor isn't going to move.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:51 PM   #4
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You can treat it with a vinegar solution. And just rattle can some primer over it. The vinegar works like ospho, just not as fast. Should work on small patches.

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Interesting, never thought of vinegar. Makes sense though since it's an acid...

Here's a video of it:

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Old 04-25-2017, 12:52 PM   #5
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I am with dredman, I can't cover up rust lol.

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Old 04-25-2017, 12:54 PM   #6
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I understand your question. You're looking for information about how well your adhesive would stick to the paint, as opposed to the adhesive sticking to bare metal. I think you're safe either way, as long as the metal is covered from exposure to air and moisture it shouldn't rust.

Personally I'd treat the rust first in the usual manor to ensure the rust is dead. I don't glue down my flooring. I do use a few screws to secure the flooring in key locations.

I've removed glued down floors a few times and there just doesn't seem to be any good reasons to glue something down that isn't really going to have a tendency to move anyway. By time you put in a few partitions or walls that floor isn't going to move.
My thinking with using the adhesive is making sure the edges can't vibrate apart and break gaps in the undercoating where the two sheets overlap. That would be an easy way to let a lot of unwanted moisture in from the bottom.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:14 PM   #7
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Even if you did have a small crack in the steel flooring and undercoating it would probably take 30 years before it became a significant problem. Water can seep up into a crack like you're thinking of, but it's working against gravity. You'll be ok.

Personally, if my bus lasts 20 years I'll be very happy.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:58 PM   #8
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Corroseal was my choice
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:07 PM   #9
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Wow, you've got a big propane tank. Kidding.

Looks like a nice semigloss finish considering it's over rust.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:09 PM   #10
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Wow, you've got a big propane tank. Kidding.

Looks like a nice semigloss finish considering it's over rust.
Wasn't my tank. But that's what Coroseal actually does. No other products necessary. Do a search on Youtube for Corroseal. I'm not joking here. When mine is done I'll show you. Corroseal is like magic!
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:25 PM   #11
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Not bad at all. Makes me want to do a preemptive paint job using coroseal. Actually I'll be doing good to get some paint slapped on here. I don't seem to have a rust problem, probably because I haven't pulled up my floor. I don't want to loose the L-track, and the floor actually seems 99% good.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:26 PM   #12
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I'd love to see the pics. I'm doing a test with vinegar and Evapo-rust right now. I'll report back with pics as well.

(I choose Evapo-rust because it happened to be the closest rust converter to the bus. Best way to make decisions )
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:27 PM   #13
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Corroseal is $53-55 a gallon. A gallon should do a whole school bus no problem
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:32 PM   #14
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This video is where I got my initial Coroseal inspiration from: (Coroseal application starts at 2:03

https://youtu.be/lc1Pc-1DLf0
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:51 AM   #15
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I'd use a rust inhibitor where you already have rust. Any bare metal spots bigger than your thumb print need to be sprayed with self etching primer before you paint them.
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:41 PM   #16
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found some 30% commercial vinegar on amazon for cheap. spent like $35 for 4 1 gallon jugs and a pump action bug sprayer. Table vinegar is between 3-5% and does a decent job... the 30% and a stiff bristle push broom is the most effective solution I have ever come across.
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:09 PM   #17
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Biggest issue with any type of acid is that it absolutely MUST be washed/rinsed thoroughly or it will create more rust. It's just funny that way.
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