Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-03-2016, 09:08 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 37
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE
Engine: Cummins 8.3
Rated Cap: 90
Sheet metal to sheet metal glue/sealant recommendations?

Hi all,

Getting lined out to start buttoning up my roof raise, and need some advice.

As the title says, Im looking for a good glue/sealant for sheet metal to sheet metal use. Sheets are 20 GA galvanized, and will be screwed together every couple inches as well.

I had hoped to use PL premium or the like (polyurethane construction adhesive), but further research indicates it needs at least one side to be porous, as it is cured by moisture. I don't think the middle inch would ever completely cure on a joint with 2" of overlap.

Our mechanic at work suggested 3M body panel adhesive, which is recommended for van bodies and the like, but I have three issues with it:
1. Two part epoxy is a PITA
2. Cost is $40/200ml. Yikes!
3. I worry an epoxy will be brittle and eventually cracked from vibration.

So, what have you had success with?

Jdecker
JDecker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
If you're planning on skipping mechanical fasteners and going an adhesive-only route then you might want to look into 3M VHB tape.

If you're planning on riveting, screwing or bolting the metal together then just get some automotive seam sealer. I actually used a black butyl vapour barrier caulking (Acousti-Seal by LePage) which has the same ingredients as seam sealer, but it's a bit goopier. I tried another brand of vapour barrier caulking which was completely different and unusable.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2016, 01:48 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6,169
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Contact Sika Corporation for a recommendation. They make some of the most advanced adhesives on the planet and have several lines specifically for metal to metal. A couple are rated stronger than welding or riveting. Most cars, trucks, trains and airplanes today use these types of adhesives in place of mechanical attachment in many situations.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2016, 05:36 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Fingerlakes Region, NY
Posts: 30
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: 3800
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 34
I'd say grab a little mig welder and lay a bead the whole length of it.
SR2K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2016, 06:57 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Peasant Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sydney, Nova Scotia
Posts: 35
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: New Holland 6.6 Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR2K View Post
I'd say grab a little mig welder and lay a bead the whole length of it.
That's what I would do. No worries about it falling apart and given the price of MIG wire it might also be the cheapest method.
__________________
www.maritimedragracing.com
Atlantic Canadaís Source for Drag Racing News,
Race Results, Schedules and Track Information.
Peasant Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 02:35 AM   #6
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 694
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
I'd go with sikaflex or the vhb tape. Is the original chassis riveted? Try to copy the techniques the factory used to join the panels.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 11:38 AM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
I'd go with sikaflex or the vhb tape. Is the original chassis riveted? Try to copy the techniques the factory used to join the panels.
This, also if he's not an experienced welder, trying to lay a bead on 20 ga sheet is gonna warp and oilcan the piss out of it...
slaughridge85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 11:50 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
2kool4skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 783
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 2 elderly children, 1 cat
This to That (Glue Advice)
__________________
Don and Mary
2kool4skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 05:47 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Jolly Roger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
I have been around sheetmetal for a long time and I prefer sonolastic master seal NP-1 if it is for something you might want to take apart and re-use later just seal the seam outside and or inside or you will waste the edges getting it apart. Run a bead between the two pieces and water to wet your fingers or putty knife to spread out what whatever squishes out when you screw/rivet the pieces together and also cover the screws/rivets I like a small bucket of water and to use my finger but to each his own. Every exterior seam on my bus was caulked before painted.
I am only primered and only because of the neighborhood HOA and the county but its in my driveway and I can work on it when I have time. With almost any sealer exposed .try to keep the exposed beads adequate but small because no matter what brand is used the paint on the sealant is going to crack and expose the caulking regardless. Are as suggested you could go more money and get the tape because it will fit your seams and not squish out for the paint to cover.
I do recommend looking at your manufacterer's web site and or calling them to see what was originally used? The panels I took off were because of rust and the sealant was completely dried up and came off with a fingernail or small scraper and no residue left on the panel's so I sealed everything I didn't remove.
I used NP-1 because it was free from the company I worked for (many a partial tube left at the end of the day ) and they bought 20-30 cases at a time and I know what it is like to take something apart with just the way it was used in my work much less the stuff I have used it for personally. Temporary fixes that worked and had to get back to the pieces? Sonolastic has been around as long as sikaflex and both probably owned by the main provider for all BASF the chemical company.
Jolly Roger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2016, 05:52 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
2kool4skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 783
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 2 elderly children, 1 cat
This is very good info. and from a person that actually knows and has made a living doing this, not from some self proclaimed expert.
__________________
Don and Mary
2kool4skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
adhesive, glue, roof raise, sheet metal

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.