OK, you asked about SHORE POWER.
Where you bring the power into the bus, use a large cable made for it...I scarfed mine out of a fifth-wheel rig. it's set up for 50 amp service, but I have 30 and 15 amp adapters.
OK, now that the power is in the bus, run the 120VAC to a breaker panel.
The hot and return wires go through the main breaker, then to the panels's "Bus" bars. Yes, they're called bus bars.
There are three wires, the three wires are:
Ground (bare wire or green insulated)
You MUST wire the ground wire to the ground/metal of the bus! If you ever get a short, this will protect anyone touching the bus and the outside ground at the same time.....there are many cases of dogs and people being elctrocuted because they were leashed to/touching the bus, and a bad connection grounded them to the soil.
OK, then from the panel, wire the bus as if it were a house. Do NOT use the push-in connections on the back of switches and outlets, as they will probably begin to flex or loosen and cause an intermittant, or even a poor connection leading to a fire. Use the screw-post connections.
Size your wire properly...talk to an electrician about what guage wire to use.
Install GFCI breakers or outlets, especially where you use outlets in kitchen, bath, or outdoor sockets/outlets. A GFCi breaker pprotects the whole circuit, whereas a GFCI outlet only protects that outlet and any others DOWNSTREAM of it.
Support all wires where they go through bulkheads, cabinets etc. Dangling wires flex and can snap with fatigue.
Lots of folks use heavy GROUNDED extension cords as material for bus 120VAC wiring, as it's meant to flex...buses move and shake, and rigid NM or UF cable doesn't, much.
I recommend tinning the ends of the wires so they STAY wound around the screw connections.
Sure, RV manufacturers use NM cable in the interiors, but they're making a house that moves, NOT a moving shaking bus that also gets lived in.
I'm a fan of heavy extension cords for my bus wiring.
IF you run a gennie, make sure you install a service disconnect. That way you won't accidentally backfeed to a huse, which can elctrocute a power serviceman repairing the wires.
Many folks use a plug/outlet instead of a service disconnect switch:
they run the bus electrical system to a male plug. From there it can either plug into the gennie OR the house/shore connection, but not BOTH.
Hope this answers your questions, NOW go look into the section about Bus Electrical Systems in Tech Discussions, it's a Sticky all Skoolie owners should read.
The tool storage is nice, but where do I put the bed?