Should I be concerned?

somewhereinusa · 09-23-2013, 11:38 AM

Getting ready for our first camping trip.

It's only over night, but I just wanted to go somewhere. I found a small leak at the hose between the water pump and distribution manifold. I tightened the clamps and the leak stopped. As you can see the hose is bulging quite a bit. It is supposed to have a working pressure of 200 PSI. and my pump is supposed to be 75 PSI. Although, I haven't checked it, it's no where near 200. Should I be concerned?

Thanks,
Dick

JakeC · 09-23-2013, 11:41 AM

Was any hot water run through it? Hot water can do that to that style hose. PSI capability drops drastically as temp goes up. If it was me, I think I would quick replace it, Or at least have a spare chunk with and keep a close eye on it.

Diesel Dan · 09-23-2013, 11:44 AM

Wow, I'm no plumbing expert, but that does not look right. Instinctively, I feel that hose is going to leak again, and the next time the leak may come as a major gusher!

bansil · 09-23-2013, 11:47 AM

was it exposed to UV or oily residue?

bus-bro · 09-23-2013, 11:58 AM

Looks like the water got hot and expanded, which was accommodated by the hose.

crazycal · 09-23-2013, 02:37 PM

Replace it. That's $0.20 worth of hose. Why wait to ruin your trip.

somewhereinusa · 09-24-2013, 01:06 PM

I guess I was thinking along the lines of has anyone else had this problem, and what can I use so that it doesn't happen again. The pump manufacturer says to use a flexible connection between both the inlet and outlet and any hard line. The pump comes with hose barb fittings. I have no idea how hot it's been, how ever hot it's been in the basement I wouldn't think much over 150 in Indiana. This and any 1/2 inch hose I have been able to find at any " hardware, farm supply, big box home store" are rated for 200 psi at 70 degrees. Agreed, it's an easy fix, I just don't want to have to do it again.

JakeC · 09-24-2013, 02:20 PM

Gotcha. my pump came with threaded inputs and outputs and I just used the flexible, reinforced lines you would use to hook up a sink, etc... Haven't tested yet, though. If you have to go with barb fittings, I would just use coolant hose from a auto parts store and be done with it, or fuel injection hose. Obviously, you would need to flush some water through it before actual use, but it would for sure hold up!!

syke · 09-24-2013, 03:14 PM

I'd replace it!

I went the same route as Jake. Braided line just like you'd use on a sink, both on the intake and output side of the pump. It takes enough of the vibration out of the pump to not impact the rigid plumbing. We've been using it full time for about 9 months now and no issues.

nat_ster · 10-05-2013, 01:03 PM

Strip that crap out of there and replace it all with pex. Don't stop at just that hose. Tear all that sub grade garbage out of there, and do it right.

I just can't say that enough. Do it right the fist time and never look back.

Nat

somewhereinusa · 10-05-2013, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nat_ster

Strip that crap out of there and replace it all with pex. Don't stop at just that hose. Tear all that sub grade garbage out of there, and do it right.

I just can't say that enough. Do it right the fist time and never look back.

Nat

I'm not sure exactly what "sub grade garbage" you are talking about. The hose in question was what is recommended by several sources that know what they are talking about. The
specs are well over the specs for pump output. By the way automotive heater hose has the exact same specs for heat and pressure.

As for using pex this is from the pump manual.

Quote:

For the quietest possible operation of the Aquajet RV, you should try to isolate the pump mechanically
from your RV's typically hard Polybutylene or PEX tubing.

Dick

nat_ster · 10-05-2013, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

Quote:

Originally Posted by nat_ster

Strip that crap out of there and replace it all with pex. Don't stop at just that hose. Tear all that sub grade garbage out of there, and do it right.

I just can't say that enough. Do it right the fist time and never look back.

Nat

I'm not sure exactly what "sub grade garbage" you are talking about. The hose in question was what is recommended by several sources that know what they are talking about. The
specs are well over the specs for pump output. By the way automotive heater hose has the exact same specs for heat and pressure.

As for using pex this is from the pump manual.

Quote:

For the quietest possible operation of the Aquajet RV, you should try to isolate the pump mechanically
from your RV's typically hard Polybutylene or PEX tubing.

Dick

somewhereinusa

I have read your build, I loved the perfect attention to detail. I couldn't do it better myself. Yours fits into a category of only a few.
When I first saw your post, I didn't think it was in your bus. It just didn't make sense to me why something that looked like that was in your bus. Now I understand. Only for sound isolation, and its not that old.

The way I see it, Pex has a rating above the other product, but allows a bit of sound travel.

Heater hose, and the clear vinyl, and the reinforced vinyl have less of a rating, but offer quieter operation.

You pick what you want to do. I know I would chose the pex. I have done both in residential hot water tank installs, and every one I didn't use pex or a braided stainless line on failed. Containment pans caught the water every time thankfully.

I haven't tried Silicone heater hose yet. I look forward to doing so because I expect it to do realy well. However it is far from low cost.

T bolt clamps like they use on turbo plumbing or fuel lines would also be a step up over the regular style hose clamps.

Nat

somewhereinusa · 10-06-2013, 10:30 AM

Thanks Nat,

I had thought about silicone hose and then forgot about it, thanks for reminding me. I'll check into the specs. I had all silicone hoses on the semi.
The clamps I used are the ones made for air conditioner hoses, they should do the job and slightly cheaper than the t bolt kind.

Dick

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