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Old 12-21-2015, 08:55 AM   #11
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Location: Andrews,Indiana
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I agree with opus the prep is important, mine too is starting to flake around the rivets, I'm just dealing with it as an ongoing project.

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If I had it to do over again, I would have left it yellow.
Not an option in Indiana, if it isn't used to haul school kids it can't be yellow. I also didn't want mine to actually look like a school bus anyway.

Dick
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:23 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post

Not an option in Indiana, if it isn't used to haul school kids it can't be yellow. I also didn't want mine to actually look like a school bus anyway.

Dick

Yep...just about the same in nearly all states.
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Old 12-21-2015, 11:10 AM   #13
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Location: Montana
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Heck, if it rolls here, its legal! Lots of yellow buses around. Not sure about surrounding states though.

I'm sure if I left it yellow I would have spray bombed something to break it up.
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Old 12-21-2015, 03:41 PM   #14
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Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
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IMG_3907.JPG

IMG_3908.JPG

IMG_3910.JPG

Painted with ICI single stage, military Green, added a flattening agent to get a matte finish...the green and black. Had two painters at my work spray it for me, took them about 3 1/2 hours in total with three guns going....two coats. I hand sanded myself, lost count after 50 hours and numerous beers while my brother welded up holes. The masking both times and prep washing took my brother and I about 15 hours, 'cause I did it at work...no beers. Trying my best to get the paint to stick the first time.....was painted Oct 16th and 18th 2015....only two months so far. Total cost was less than $500. for the paint, primer, scotch bright pads and sand paper. Guys in the pic are the painters.

Painted two of the rub rails green and the middle one black just to break it up a bit along with the window posts....which took the longest to tape. Bought six gallons of green and one gallon of black, used all the black and only three gallons of green.....still have to get the storage box lids to open and cut the back of the bus out so I have extra paint for that and other mods.

Hmmm, do it again, not ---king likely. Arms, shoulders, elbows felt like #3LL after that!
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:26 PM   #15
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Yeah...but it sure looks goooood!
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:03 PM   #16
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
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Year: 1935
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[b][b/]

[b][b/]

I used PPG Delfleet Essential with a catalyst and hardener (single stage) for the beige color. The bright yellow is a Dupont base coat clear coat.

I spent close to 500 hours picking the brushed on latex house paint from around each rivet and seam, feather sanding same followed by priming and blocking to get rid of the brush strokes. The paint has been on for nearly two years and quite a few thousand miles and so far I've had no problems.

With real estate its location, location, location and with paint its preparation, preparation, preparation.

Jack
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:05 PM   #17
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In this light sand blasting doesn't sound so bad.... I wonder what it costs to "rent" (buy used and then re-sell when I'm done using) a Marco abrasive blast pot rig via eBay.. and whether it'd be possible to get the job done before the wheels of justice arrived to shut down the operation!
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:38 AM   #18
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In this light sand blasting doesn't sound so bad.... I wonder what it costs to "rent" (buy used and then re-sell when I'm done using) a Marco abrasive blast pot rig via eBay.. and whether it'd be possible to get the job done before the wheels of justice arrived to shut down the operation!
I have some experience sandblasting and I can tell you that is a big job too.

If you do not have a huge compressor ( 15CFM+) and at least a 200lb sandblaster and you are doing a long bus then forget it, it is faster to sand it with a good orbital sander ( GOOD like a 3m or hutchins), and depending the media you use you can get clogs in the lines and or condensation that will clog the hoses too so a dryer is mandatoryand if you want to do it in one go having all the bags of media ready.....etc....etc.

now if is a short bus you can do it with a smaller sandblaster and in stages but it will still require sanding because media is left in the substrate so you need to sand the sandblasted area anyways to get rid of any residue even if you use soda.

So you better off sanding with and orbital sander twice.

my two cents.
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:53 AM   #19
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Great info! When can you be here? ��
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:56 AM   #20
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Great info! When can you be here? ��
Hahaha I would love to help but I'm pretty far.
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