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09-26-2016, 10:06 PM
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#21
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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This is the look in going for, except 5' wide
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I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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09-26-2016, 11:11 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,511
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Do not make the mistake I made:
I installed a conventional fiberglass shower stall, such as for a home.
The floor needs support, so it does not crack. The globs of mortar, plaster or such as shown earlier seem to be standard procedure.
Well, I used expanding foam, so it would fit nicely. I figured any excess foam would squirt harmlessly out the sides.
Not so. The expanding foam lifted the center of the floor -- which is where the drain is. So now I always have a circular puddle of water that does not drain.
I will redo it. The only question is whether I can get all the foam out from under there, or will need to replace the whole stall.
Next time I will place a few hundred pounds of weight on the floor, to ensure drainage.
While I'm at it....
When there is an appreciable amount of waste-water in the tank, which is located ahead of the shower, the stuff comes up the shower drain when I accelerate and/or climb hills. For now I tape over the drain. But the re-installation will get a shut-off valve below the shower drain.
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09-27-2016, 12:10 AM
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#23
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 218
Year: 1997
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
While I'm at it....
When there is an appreciable amount of waste-water in the tank, which is located ahead of the shower, the stuff comes up the shower drain when I accelerate and/or climb hills. For now I tape over the drain. But the re-installation will get a shut-off valve below the shower drain.
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Get one of those Hepvo Waterless Valve as it should act nicely as a one way valve.
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09-27-2016, 12:23 AM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,511
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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That just might do it. Thanks!
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09-28-2016, 04:52 PM
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#26
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 414
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
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09-28-2016, 05:36 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Don't know what the hep of valve is yet but they have started selling some drain adapters to replace trap primers that do the job but add restrictions to the drain line that also collect stuff passing through like hair,mop string stuff. And they are called trap seals. They would work and or cheap but will clog your drain up.
I haven't thought about that problem but the first thing that came to my mind is something I have used when connecting swimming pool drains to the building sewer systems that are called Backwater valves. They are nothing more than a swing type check valve except unlike the same check valve for water that has water pressure on both sides and kinda hangs freely and only works when the water changes direction the backwater valves are designed for sewer drain lines that should only have intermittent pressure on the incoming side and none unless in a back pressure situation. To keep the sewer gases from traveling through the free swinging gate the backwater valve has a spring with slight pressure to hold the gate closed but when used it is a full open swing gate check valve with no obstructions.
Maybe to much info. That's not needed? I will look up the hepvo valves just so I have an idea next time there mentioned.
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09-28-2016, 05:58 PM
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#28
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Sorry just looked at the hepvo thingies.
They will not stop a backflow or backup problem and they are only made in 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" which is standard for kitchen sinks and bathroom sinks/lavatories and I might try a few for my bus sink (long story) but most showers are standard size of 2" and hepvo don't have that yet?
Like you a shutoff valve will be ideal and probably cheaper but I do water for a living and I have shut offs everywhere needed for supply but now you have me thinking of the drains also.
I know at campgrounds around here on Sunday mornings everyone lines up to dump,clean and run and these old folgies get mad at a less experienced person for taking 20-minutes and then get up there and take 40 cause there still complaining to there buddies how long it took the newbies?
I really don't care and I haven't been that guy yet but I have tried to streamline the process but adding more valves adds more time at the dump station. If you know where the valves are and have a routine then it don't take that long so I guess it's a mute point but in that scenario I am the one that's liable to say something before I get out of the way so I guess I am just thinking of ways to avoid those conversations?
Good luck
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08-01-2020, 05:50 PM
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#29
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossfree
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Hey Ross,
How did you get your shower drain to be level with your shower pan?
I am using FRP Panels (Fiber Glass) and I am trying to figure out how I will do that any advice?
I will have a sloped piece of plywood that will be treated for waterproofing and then glue the FRP Panel to the wood.
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08-01-2020, 07:21 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,988
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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look up kerdi and schluter shower systems.
things to think of once you wrap your head around it.
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08-01-2020, 11:27 PM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger
Don't know what the hep of valve is yet but they have started selling some drain adapters to replace trap primers that do the job but add restrictions to the drain line that also collect stuff passing through like hair,mop string stuff. And they are called trap seals. They would work and or cheap but will clog your drain up.
I haven't thought about that problem but the first thing that came to my mind is something I have used when connecting swimming pool drains to the building sewer systems that are called Backwater valves. They are nothing more than a swing type check valve except unlike the same check valve for water that has water pressure on both sides and kinda hangs freely and only works when the water changes direction the backwater valves are designed for sewer drain lines that should only have intermittent pressure on the incoming side and none unless in a back pressure situation. To keep the sewer gases from traveling through the free swinging gate the backwater valve has a spring with slight pressure to hold the gate closed but when used it is a full open swing gate check valve with no obstructions.
Maybe to much info. That's not needed? I will look up the hepvo valves just so I have an idea next time there mentioned.
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Would this be one of the trap seals of which you speak?
https://kofflersales.com/p/green-drain-flow-trap.asp
From their demo video it looks like it would keep gasses and splashes contained in the tank until the seal had a hair ball keeping the seal open. I am trying to figure out how to have my shower drain straight down into the top of my gray water tank without taking up space with a p trap.
Thanks
Ted
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10-20-2020, 05:51 AM
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#32
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Fairfield Bay, Arkansas
Posts: 163
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: Ward?
Engine: 8.2 liter ?
Rated Cap: 24 Passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CadaSan
Hey Ross,
How did you get your shower drain to be level with your shower pan?
I am using FRP Panels (Fiber Glass) and I am trying to figure out how I will do that any advice?
I will have a sloped piece of plywood that will be treated for waterproofing and then glue the FRP Panel to the wood.
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CadaSan,
I'm sorry, I didn't get notified of your question so I am answering this pretty late. My drain clamps down on the plastic so it isn't really level with the pan. It will not drain completely and I figure I will have to hit the floor with a towel to dry it each time I shower. It was either that or raise the pan enough to drain everything and I didn't want to raise the pan because I wanted the head room.
There is a product called RedGuard available at Home Depot. It is a rubberized paint like coating that I used in another project to seal everything before tile. It worked GREAT and I can see that I could build my own pan with mortar, paint int with RedGuard and bits of fabric in the corners and tile the whole thing. It would look AWESOME this way and I think it would hold up just fine for the bus. This might be an upgrade in the future. We'll see.
Regards!
Ross
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09-13-2022, 10:19 AM
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#33
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: The Colony, Texas
Posts: 79
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Raised Roof compliments of Transcend Existance Bus
Engine: 7.6LNavistarDT466eDiesel Trans:AllisonMD3060Auto
Rated Cap: GVWR 32,000 LBS
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So glad to see that Im not the only one going with a concrete shower pan.
I found this really easy to follow diy shower pan made out of concrete video.
Im going to add a bunch of screws under the pan for the concrete to form around so that it wont go bouncing around while driving.
https://youtu.be/4KDaT5G7FE4
Im also thinking about making it a sit down shower to make better use of the vertical space.
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09-13-2022, 10:21 AM
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#34
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: The Colony, Texas
Posts: 79
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Raised Roof compliments of Transcend Existance Bus
Engine: 7.6LNavistarDT466eDiesel Trans:AllisonMD3060Auto
Rated Cap: GVWR 32,000 LBS
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So glad to see that Im not the only one going with a concrete shower pan.
I found this really easy to follow diy shower pan made out of concrete video.
Im going to add a bunch of screws under the pan for the concrete to form around so that it wont go bouncing around while driving.
https://youtu.be/4KDaT5G7FE4
Im also thinking about making it a sit down shower to make better use of the vertical space.
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