Second post... I just purchased a 1990 Chevy Ward 24 passenger Skoolie. Pics uploaded. Seats are out and work is underway to remove side panels... I'm hating rivets right now.
Anyway, somewhere, in all the googling I've done, I ran across someone posting that they installed a 120VAC / 20amp reel-type extension cord. One of the retractable cords you hang in your garage. I own one... love it!
Rather than connect up with a 30amp or 50amp extension cord, they used the retractable cord / 12volt charger to keep the batteries charged up. All 120VAC in their bus was through their inverter(s).
I can't find the original post and do not know how to begin to search Skoolie.net for similar information so excuse me if this is a redundant thread.
I like the idea. Simple... no transfer switching, nice, 30ft retractable cord. Single or multiple inverters that can be turned off when not needed so as to hold down phantom loss.
In my bus, I plan to have the following: Small 5000 BTU Wally World window AC.
6 cu ft Home Depot upright freezer - with secondary temperature control to use as a refrigerator. A drop in single burner induction cooktop. Small convection toaster oven. Small Wally World microwave oven. Led lighting. 12volt ceiling vent. Charging ports for computer / iPad / cell phones. I currently plan to have two 125 amp/hr 12volt marine batteries in parallel.
I am aware of inverter losses. Is it practical to run off of the battery/inverter(s) with just a 120vac / 20amp extension / battery charger configuration? Of particular concern is running the AC. If the AC is running off of the inverter / batteries, with the compressor cycling on and off, will the charger potentially keep the batteries charged enough? And will this heavy drain / simultaneous charge, harm the batteries?
I know a 30amp extension cord and transfer switch is simple enough, I just like the retractable reel type extension. Ya know how you get something in your head sometimes?
Alright... smack me across the face! I can take it!