Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-15-2017, 04:05 PM   #1
Almost There
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 74
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
Skin over window methods

Wanted to run my thoughts past you pros on covering 1 window. My goal is to keep as much natural light as possible with as many windows as I can. One window however will span a wall between the shower and bedroom area. The reason I think I will remove it is because it wouldnt be opened without 2 people standing on either side. It is also near the shower area.

So my thoughts are as such:

Pull the window and cut a thick like 1 inch plywood to the same size and then get it wrapped on the sides and front with sheet metal from a local heating and cooling company. I would paint it and put it back in place with sealer and screws the same way the window that came out went in.

Another option is to simply keep the glass or remove it but have sheet metal rivited to the existing window frame and simply put it back in.

Or ... something I have not thought of yet.

I like the idea of using plywood skinned with sheet metal as I could vent the composting toilet with little issue... maybe.

How di you skin your windows? I wouldnt expect that glass to break any differently than the others and primarily concerned about just dealing with it opening. Should I should black it out and frame it in a way that you cannot even reach the latches and not worry about it?

Your feed back is welcomed. If you see my latest pictures it's the 2nd from last window on the right side.
__________________
Second Star Skoolie Project
Crozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 04:32 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
CaptSquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,258
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
You won't need 1". Half-inch BCX would work better and cheaper, too. You can remove the windows with a linoleum knife to cut the caulking material and pull it out from the inside. A one-man job.
CaptSquid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #3
Almost There
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 74
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
So 1/2 inch plywood covered with sheet metal put back in as a window is the way you would go?
__________________
Second Star Skoolie Project
Crozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 04:36 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
CaptSquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,258
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
Sure would. And metal only on the outside. You'll still need some silicon caulking between the metal and the bus window frame, though.
CaptSquid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 04:37 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 74
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
Yup thats what I was thinking. When I painted the inside of my bus I resealed the lower portion of each window. One bead under and smoothed from the outside.
__________________
Second Star Skoolie Project
Crozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 04:45 PM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
CaptSquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,258
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
I've only pulled one window out so I could install a 10K BTU AC unit. I've weathered TWO Montana winters so far. I've got 1" double faced insulation on the sides. I found some very nice 1/8" birch ply at $24/sheet to skin the inside. Yeah, I know - pricey! But, wood, too, is an insulator. Besides, it'll look better than foil facing. I'll purchase some brass hinges and hardware to have some access for a window in the bedroom.
CaptSquid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:07 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
M1031A1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Oberlin, Kansas
Posts: 1,398
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
You can look at my overkill on "Heavy Fuel" if you want to see how I did it with my bus......

M
__________________
Firearms stand next in importance to the Constitution itself. They are the American people’s liberty teeth and keystone under independence. — George Washington
M1031A1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:12 PM   #8
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 164
Year: 1993
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: International, 3000, Blue Bird
Engine: Dt360
Rated Cap: 25000
I had a sheet of 18 gage steel cut to the size of the window frame this way I could leave the glass in the frame. I used the pink insulation 1/2 or 3/4 inch and a pice of 1/4 inch to fill in the gaps this way you get some R value. If you cover the insides with wood you add the insulation to fill out so the wall is flushed before adding the wood. Caulk the outside and your water tight.
__________________
Looking for that happy place, I've got a home on wheels and I'm going to find it.
Better Tomorrows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:15 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
CaptSquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,258
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
BT, I took the entire window frame out of the side. No messing with possibly breaking the glass. I kept the window intact because I may have to remove the AC if I travel down the road.
CaptSquid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:35 PM   #10
Almost There
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 74
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
Good input from everyone. Thank you
__________________
Second Star Skoolie Project
Crozz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:56 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
My window deletes are 14g steel to fit with a 3/4" lip all around. I tack welded them to the existing sheet metal then closed them all up inside & out with OEM grade automotive seam sealer. Came back with insulation on the inside after fitting.

[
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 05:57 PM   #12
Bus Geek
 
Robin97396's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
Since you've already got your windows caulked, why not use rigid insulation between the glass and the new exterior skin? The windows are offset by almost exactly 1/2" making it easy to use rigid insulation to fill in the offset on both sides of the window.

I think wrapping plywood inside of metal is what most people do so they can run a stovepipe out the window. I wouldn't expect the wood to last because of moisture.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
Robin97396 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2017, 06:02 PM   #13
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
i remove all the windows . After all, RV windows look much better, and are very easily to get from scrap rv's. With the windows out, it is quite easy to use 1x1 sq tubing to frame in whatever size windows one wishes. As far as the outside skin, busses I have done have used 18 ga, marine panels normally used in boat construction, and 1/2 fiberglass sheets cut, sealed and bolted on. All have worked without any problems
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
chev49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×