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Old 12-22-2010, 08:05 PM   #11
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Re: Skoolie Advice

Yeah the guy in PA said he was going to get a crate motor through Jasper ( I believe they come with 3yr/100,000 mile warranty) Because the engine is such a PITA to get to it's $600-$800 for labor. I'm thinking it's about a $2200 job. None of my friends are mechanically savvy. If he can give it to me for 2200 that I'll do it. (Plus what I owe him for the tow, he wanted to charge for 2 weeks of storage at 35 dollars a day but no way in hell I'm paying that). Then I will also never drive the vehicle out of the state of NJ again lol. Would strictly be a home game skoolie. I called places for re-built 5.7 liter motors and they all told me about 2k, so with another 1k labor plus 1k to tow it back to NJ. It looks like my best bet is having them fix it out in PA. Hoping for a Christmas miracle...Anymore tips? Jasper (check) not made in Mexico (check).
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Old 12-24-2010, 06:41 AM   #12
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Re: Skoolie Advice

It all depends on how complete your conversion is. If it's not really nice, I go get my good stuff out of it and have a local company haul it across the scrapyard scale. With the price of scrap metal up right now, that could be a good deposit on your next bus. But then again, I haven't seen your bus. But for 2 grand, you could buy yourself a fairly nice diesel bus on ebay. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:27 PM   #13
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Re: Skoolie Advice

I disagree. You could scrap it, and lose your time, labor and cash investment. Then you go buy another one and it ends up needing an engine 3 months later. I say go for the engine, then you know you wont get another surprise.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:57 PM   #14
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Re: Skoolie Advice

My $.02: In considering having the guy in PA do the job: think about what kind of warranty you will have, and if you'll have to take it back to him to have any warranty work done.

Not picking any sides here, but depending on current blood, sweat and $$ already invested, scrapping is an option and many good busses can be had for that kind of money (scrap $ + engine repair/replacement $). It is also quite possible that he could r & r the engine and you'll never have another major engine issue again. Your call...

Personally too, I'd be a little leery of someone taking advantage of the distance between you and the repair center regarding repair costs and warranty, it's not like he's just down the road fixing a smaller, more easily towed daily driver...
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:59 PM   #15
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Re: Skoolie Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by mightybus
Sure disagree if you want. I don't care.
Heck, if I can disagree with my wife at times....you're a push over. lol!
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Old 12-24-2010, 07:41 PM   #16
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Re: Skoolie Advice

still think it is the fuel pump...
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Old 12-25-2010, 12:37 AM   #17
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Re: Skoolie Advice

get a 2nd opinion
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Old 12-25-2010, 08:20 AM   #18
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Re: Skoolie Advice

Never heard of bearings going bad 4 hours into a trip after a long storage, with clean oil. I suppose they could go from sitting, but I would expect the damage to take place at start-up when oil pressure is low and the bearings arent lubed well..

Best thing about a fuel pressure check is that it is free, and eliminates one variable in a no-start condition. Fuel filters are cheap, and fuel pumps are comparatively cheap {$100-$200} compared to the roadside diagnosis he got {and sounds suspicious to me}.

Probably been turning wrenches for fun and profit as long as the OP has breathed! Just last week I bartered a '99 F150 PU for 2 panels of paint n body work. F150 was said to have a seized motor...Put a battery in it and hit the key....CLANK! Removed the serpentine belt and hit the key again....SPIN!
Alternator locked up. $150 for new alternator and serpentine belt.

Still no start, check fuel pressure, none. Pulled fuel filter, not clogged. Checked fuses and relays, all good. Pulled the bed off, replaced the fuel pump, runs like a top. $130 for fuel pump.

Fuel pumps these days are in the tank. They rely on fuel to keep them cool, and some folks like to empty their tanks before fill-up, hot fuel pumps dont live as long as cool ones.
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Old 12-27-2010, 08:44 PM   #19
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Re: Skoolie Advice

Thanks for continued advice guys. Scraping is my last option, my buddy and I put at least...300-400 hours of labor into that bus. That alone is worth a great deal of money. If I ever did something again it'd be an ambulance. Also, I had 4 different people tell me it was rod bearings, so I'm going to take that data and confirm that's what it is. The engines the guy is looking at are Jaspers and I believe they have long warranty's. Scrap yards charge outrageous money for storage, if he wants to charge me that I won't pay for it and it'll have to be scrapped. I'm pretty screwed either way, you guys are right that he can do a shoddy job since I live far away. The funny part is the first quote he gave me was like 1,000 cheaper then NJ prices lol. He was talking to me about taking pride in his work and all this non-sense, meanwhile it's a week later and the guy can't even get me a damn quote. I'm sure he's trying to bleed time so he can say that the bus has been there for 4 weeks when it was really only 2. Meh, either way I give my bus a 10% chance of being rescued. Just too many things going against me, but I'll keep pestering the guy everyday until I get an answer. Guy told me the rod bearings were out and basically I need 3/4th of a new engine.
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:04 PM   #20
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Re: Skoolie Advice

I really hope it works out for you in the end. I for one could still believe it is the bottom end. The reason of it running terrible could be because a modern chevy 350 has push rods that uses hydraulic lifters. If the lifters are not getting the correct amount of oil pressure the valves are not going to open properly therefore running rough. With spun bearings the oil is not going to have correct oil pressure, because the bearings could be, partially at times, covering the oil galleries. My old plymouth had solid lifters which is not the case anymore. If it were the electric fuel pump it woudn't even try to start again, I know they can spit and sputter alittle as they are going out, but is usually only for a few seconds. It does seem strange to loose the bearings after running that long, and having enough oil though. Anyway I feel for you.
Best of luck.
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