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Old 05-20-2016, 05:22 PM   #41
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Thanks. I've never been able to figure out the spray tips and so far the people in the stores didn't know either.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:37 PM   #42
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Thanks. I've never been able to figure out the spray tips and so far the people in the stores didn't know either.
getting the spray gun set up right can be difficult if one isn't familiar. The cheap ones can be great, but lots of em can be a real nightmare to try and paint with.
I've been doing ok with some cheap ones from Lowes so far.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:38 PM   #43
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I work for a commercial painting contractor and we paint everything from walls with sheet rock and block walls to chemical tanks for Clorox or even water towers. For something like a bus I don't see why it would be much different than say a steel wall or even a conex container. Why not just go over the whole thing with TSP and then hit it with DTM (direct to metal) bonding primer and then hit with eith a DTM paint or even industrial enamel? Obviously the worst part of the whole process would be the TSP if only because its so time consuming.
I assume you are talking about self etching primer? I grindered down to metal in some spots covered with rust oleum self etching(galvanizing primer) and in the areas I painted over with another color rust oleum brand either bubbled or didn't stick? Finger nail test?
Commercial construction for 20 years.
Please give us more info. On your idea. And how it will work in a flexible world.
Never been a painter and my wife has taken over that area? And no disrespect to you but how will a solid wall paint that don't move work on a moving structure?
I ain't ready for paint but if water tower paint or real steel tank paint was the answer? Then I passed up many a 5-gallon bucket left overs cause the sprayer didn't pick it up?
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:43 PM   #44
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I've used my airless sprayer to paint my powerwagon using rustoleum and rudy brown primer, after over a week of prep. Some 15 years later the spray paint job is pealing, while the brush paint jobs on vehicles from 30 years ago with oil based exterior high gloss house paint and no prep actually seem to have lasted longer. Maybe it was better paint?
I don't claim to be any kind of a painter, but I wouldn't use latex on a vehicle unless I really didn't care. Oil base seems to last longer.
It's not so much about the quality of the paint job. Most people will never examine it close enough to see any brush strokes. The good part of painting your own vehicle is you can touch it up any time you need to.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:17 PM   #45
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Ok, this is a 15-18 year old spray paint job done with rustoleum after over a week of prep time.















There's no rust but I get the coastal air blowing through here every evening. I couldn't tell you if rustoleum is bad or not. I haven't had that good of luck with it.





My little truck that could.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:32 PM   #46
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Ok, this is a 15-18 year old spray paint job done with rustoleum after over a week of prep time.















There's no rust but I get the coastal air blowing through here every evening. I couldn't tell you if rustoleum is bad or not. I haven't had that good of luck with it.





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That's a VERY rad truck!!! Gotta love a Power Wagon, man.
Awesome stuff, glad to see it!!
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:38 PM   #47
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nice power wagon!! ive not used a lot of rustoleum.. ive done quite a bit of POR-15 for things like under-body and frame.. never tried to use it where its in the sun a lot.. I think a lot of paint breakdown is UV related..
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:46 PM   #48
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The "new" EPA approved paints are garbage compared to old school lacquers and enamels. And worst of all are the water based primers that Detroit is using. I have seen new car lots that had brand, new vehicles popping rust from that crap. I define "new" as anything that has hit the market in the last 20 years. So much for advances in science. Paint science, anyway. Whoever dreamed up spraying water onto raw metal ought to have his PhD revoked.
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:54 PM   #49
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I second the new paints SUCK!.. they also scratch MUCH easier than anything !.. I lease my daily drivers brand new every couple years and its darn near impossible to keep a new car scratch free.. the last car i had with full enamel paint on it was my 1976 Cadillac.. and when I had it repainted I had it done specially at a specialty shop that painted with enamel paint.. and that car had a beautiful perfectly mirror like black finish that NEVER exists on a new car... and I accidentilly knocked a bicycle in my garage parking the car and it left a mark that rubbed off with my finger.. in essence the bicycle took it worse than the car as far as finish...

but its all EPA AND TIME.. my roomate works at the Honda plant in marysville and works with the crew that monitors the waste water and sludge pits / etc from the paint shop.. the new water base paints can be applied and the car body sent down the assembly line in 1/3 the time of old enamels.. and the waste from the paint shop can be neutralized , sludge removed and the water released to the river.. whereas the process with enamels was MUCH tougher to obtain the EPA standards for water quality before releasing it... so in essence it costs much less to use these new water based paints.. body shops LOVE the stuff because they make more money repaiting cars.. and can turn the cars around quicker..

the color qualities of water based paints are already fairly bad so makign a car "look new" isnt hard like it used to be...

-Christopher
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:07 AM   #50
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The "new" EPA approved paints are garbage compared to old school lacquers and enamels. And worst of all are the water based primers that Detroit is using. I have seen new car lots that had brand, new vehicles popping rust from that crap. I define "new" as anything that has hit the market in the last 20 years. So much for advances in science. Paint science, anyway. Whoever dreamed up spraying water onto raw metal ought to have his PhD revoked.
My newish Subaru has the same crappy paint.
Its horrible.
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