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Old 05-21-2016, 09:45 AM   #51
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Re the old paint - new paint controversy, just as a perspective on how these things come to pass... Fifty plus years ago when the Indiana town where my family originated was booming from the auto industry some 30k people were employed by auto industry suppliers. Over time as auto parts were outsourced overseas these giant factories closed their doors, leaving behind thousands of acres of unusable land which cost both the city and the EPA Superfund millions of dollars to clean up the toxicity, especially from the chemicals leeching into the soil from the paint plants. So bureaucrats decide that to prevent this sort of expense they'll outlaw or make impossibly difficult the production of such chemicals in the future and the result is laws such as water-based paints or outlawing incandescent light bulbs - because we as citizens apparently aren't responsible enough to take care of ourselves. So just remember that next time you think to yourself or utter the words, "they ought to pass a law to ...".
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:07 AM   #52
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Re the old paint - new paint controversy, just as a perspective on how these things come to pass... Fifty plus years ago when the Indiana town where my family originated was booming from the auto industry some 30k people were employed by auto industry suppliers. Over time as auto parts were outsourced overseas these giant factories closed their doors, leaving behind thousands of acres of unusable land which cost both the city and the EPA Superfund millions of dollars to clean up the toxicity, especially from the chemicals leeching into the soil from the paint plants. So bureaucrats decide that to prevent this sort of expense they'll outlaw or make impossibly difficult the production of such chemicals in the future and the result is laws such as water-based paints or outlawing incandescent light bulbs - because we as citizens apparently aren't responsible enough to take care of ourselves. So just remember that next time you think to yourself or utter the words, "they ought to pass a law to ...".
Big business definitely can't take care of things. Our local beef plant had been illegally dumping their waste for decades. When the epa finally got involved they were shut down.
The real reason I don't work in the steel shop I'd been in for over a decade is because they illegally dispose of HORRIBLE waste. They also bypass the air filtration to save money on filters which is poisoning the entire workforce with hexavalent chromium, among other things. When I refused to back down and kept pushing them to stop killing us, they decided to "downsize".
Proper enforcement of the rules we already have and increased corporate accountability are the only real solutions. Making us use inferior products doesn't change much in the grand scheme of things.
Now we have continued polluting coupled with the decreased quality of products. The consumer always loses.
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:23 AM   #53
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...When I refused to back down and kept pushing them to stop killing us, they decided to "downsize"....
Hope I show that character if I get put in that sort of situation.
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:24 AM   #54
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OK, so the wife says when we get a bus (and need to paint it) we ought to do a "C+" job on it. I don't think she realizes that the C+ job may be a lot closer price-wise to the hired $4000 "A" job than the $200 bargain basement version.

Question 1: how would you grade the $200 Scotchbrite / TSP / ImplementPaint+Hardener / FoamRoller job - is that an "F", "D", "C-" or what?

Question 2: on a limited budget and desiring to sell the bus after moving across country, but not wanting to create a time-bomb for the buyer, how would you go about doing the "C+" job she wants?

Note: I *really* want specifics if at all possible, such as:
  1. Sand window frames until no longer glossy;
  2. Use a Scotchbrite pad and TSP and scrub down the whole area to be painted (use protective gear);
  3. Remove trim or mask if that's not practical;
  4. Spray with self-etching primer from a spray can if you go through to metal anywhere;
  5. Ospho and primer any area which was de-rusted;
  6. Buy Tractor Supply implement paint and add hardener;
  7. Roll on using foam rollers, in the shade and not towards evening;
  8. Roll on a second coat if you can possibly afford it;
  9. Remove trim masking while paint is still wet or after it is completely dry.

Note that the above is a noob's guess, not a prescription: do not follow these instructions unless they are enthusiastically recommended below by folks who know what they're doing.
Pressure wash it, scrub off any rust with abrasives, give it a quick sanding anywhere necessary, then roll on some rustoleum or implement paint- whatever is cheaper they're the SAME.
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:27 AM   #55
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Pressure wash it, scrub off any rust with abrasives, give it a quick sanding anywhere necessary, then roll on some rustoleum or implement paint- whatever is cheaper they're the SAME.
Thanks! Would you add hardener to the paint?

[and in case anyone noticed that the original post was deleted, I did that to change the order in which it appeared, but EastCoast came back with a reply before I was able to add it back in; the quote above will suffice]
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:38 AM   #56
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Thanks! Would you add hardener to the paint?

[and in case anyone noticed that the original post was deleted, I did that to change the order in which it appeared, but EastCoast came back with a reply before I was able to add it back in; the quote above will suffice]
Yeah you can, but for the purpose you're using it for you could skip it.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:02 AM   #57
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Robin, that is a nice looking Power Wagon! I'm a Dodge man all the way and the Power Wagon is like the Holy Grail. In my book it's the only thing that beats a 1st gen Cummins. Except maybe the Legacy Power Wagon with the 4 cylinder Cummins option.

And someone else stated that UV was the most damaging toaint and you're absolutely right. Paint that is formulated for vehicles have UuV protectants in the clear coat. Commercial grade paints for the most part do not. Although there are additives that you can get as well as separate clear coats you can buy to spray on them. If any of you shop at O'Reilly auto parts, the next time you go to the store pay attention to the red portion of the front wall. Especially if the paint is newer. If you look really close you'll notice that the red has a secondary clear coat on it. And its quite hard. We paint the red "portal" and then apply a clear on top to give it more UV protection.

Also the machines at Lowes or Home Depot, if they're set up to do gallons or 5 gallons, have a prime function that circulates paint firstt through the machine and when switched to paint will then put paint through the hose.

Unfortunately there is a bit of trade off when using commercial paint versus vehicle paint. Your vehicle paint will last much longer. Enamels over time break down and become chalky and eventually will crack and flake off. But you should still get about 5 years or so out of them. Maybe more if your busmis covered when not in use.

As for the primer peeling and not getting good adhesion? Not really sure about that one. After sanding and scuffing clean up is key. You must keep cleanning until that white cloth comes back just as white as it started after wiping it down. And the etching primers are good as well I'm just not sure if you can get it in anything other than a rattle can.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:41 AM   #58
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Thanks, that's my favorite truck. The paint job was doomed from the beginning because of some teen neighbors living across the alley from me in town at that time. I spent over a week prepping the truck for paint. I took that sucker apart to prep it down to the metal. The primer is still sticking extremely well actually, and the trick is it's also on the underside of everything. Running boards, fenders, frame. It's the top coat of green that's been the peeler. That was basically due to my teen neighbors at that time that seemed to have splashed the truck with something that caused the top coat to start peeling. It was only a couple weeks after I'd finished the paint job and I was still sore from all the sanding. I've had to be satisfied with the fact that I got a really thick coat of rudy brown primer on there that has pretty well eliminated the surface rust that had been there with the original paint job previously.
Would it upset anyone to know I got this for $2k, off the side of old Hwy 99 in Tenino WA? It had belonged to the Dept of the Interior, which is apparently a renamed department these days. My guess is they had a generator mounted on the bed that they took to remote areas, which would also give you the weight to navigate rough ground. I'm the third owner and I think it's got 27,000 painful miles on it.
It always starts. Just slip in a good battery and drag a piece of sandpaper through the points. A little sip of gas down the carburetor doesn't hurt to speed things up. It always starts but it doesn't always stop anymore. Brake problems lately as a result of having them worked on last year.
Just out of curiosity, what year do you think this truck is? That's not fair. They made these trucks this body style until '72, I believe, for export only. The difference is the width of the hood nose. Old trucks have a nose that ends the size of a water mellon while the nose on this one is about 20" wide. It's a '62. Low miles, only driven to church on Sundays. The vacuum wipers don't work anymore even though I've replaced them at considerable expense, thanks to my kids using them as handles to climb the truck when they were small. Can't win them all. After this many years I feel fortunate to still have the truck.
This would be an amazing vehicle with Tango's 4 cylinder in it. Ok, a copy of Tango's diesel.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:24 PM   #59
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I eat what tastes good.. and that to me is not fruit and twigs and nuts and berries and Leaves... sorry just not...
Part-time vegan here. Twigs and nuts and berries and leaves are good for you!

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This is the degreaser I've been using. Its awesome stuff and CHEAP at Lowes.
I clean my grill with this stuff.
Specially if you grill a lot, keeping the thing de-greased is good for you, as oils/fats tend to release all kinds of nasty toxins when burned.

back to skoolie talkin'....
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:29 PM   #60
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Part-time vegan here. Twigs and nuts and berries and leaves are good for you!



I clean my grill with this stuff.
Specially if you grill a lot, keeping the thing de-greased is good for you, as oils/fats tend to release all kinds of nasty toxins when burned.

back to skoolie talkin'....
I'm a hard core member of PETA, People Eating Tasty Animals.
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