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Old 06-13-2009, 08:04 AM   #1
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Re: Split Wheel Rims...

This is a good question! I too have split rims and have a wobble at the same speeds. Am very interested in replies to this post.

One of the things I've been thinking of doing is going to the local wrecking / scrap yards. There's plenty with buses that just don't run anymore. If the rims match the lug pattern, I'm hoping I can use the rims and just take the tires to the truck shop to be remounted and balanced. But I'll wait for expert advice from folks who've already gone through this...
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:56 AM   #2
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Re: Split Wheel Rims...

There was a discussion recently regarding split vs spoke vs other type rims.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4122&hilit=split+rims

Some good info and links. Older tube type split-ring rims are usually a different diameter than more modern rims. But they will usually match: i.e 10-20 tube type is same as 11-22.5 tubeless. Only other issue is hub vs. stud piloted. Most basic Skoolie and semi rims should be stud piloted. Used wheels should be available pretty cheap. The cost for a used wheel is likely to be less than the extra cost for a tube, flap and more expensive tire. Tubeless type tires tend to be a bit cheaper also. If buying used, check the date code!!!
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Old 06-13-2009, 05:54 PM   #3
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Re: Split Wheel Rims...

Have either of you checked your wheel run out? It *shouldn't* be an issue given that your shakes are speed relative, but run out can cause some strange problems. Those of us with locking ring style wheels have them mounted to the hub using little locking wedges with large nuts holding them on. The problem is that there is nothing to center the rim and keep it concentric around the bearings. This must manually be set. Jack the front up and spin the wheels with a reference mark on the ground. Watch to make sure that as you spin it it isn't getting closer-farther-closer-farther-closer-farther as you spin it. If it is I would suggest that you back the nuts off (but do not remove them...you just want them loose as a starting point). Then, spin it over with your reference mark. When you have a part that is getting farther away from the mark tighten the closest nut a little. This will force the tire out at that point. Work your way around slowly torquing them all down. Eventually you should be able to tighten all the nuts to spec without it moving and with it trued up.

Also, do you have radial or bias ply tires? Bias ply tires will get flat spots from sitting that can take miles to smooth out. You oughta see what my super swampers look like when sitting. I have actually witnessed a set of swampers that sat at 5 psi overnight cause a PCM to flag a multiple cylinder misfire because the flat spots were so large that they actually caused the crankshaft to speed up and slow down enough to trigger the code. It's not often that a P0300 can be solved with an air chuck.
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:59 PM   #4
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Re: Split Wheel Rims...

go to your local reputable independant tire dealer or mechanic and ask for a recommendation for a reputable truck tire dealer, a good tire dealer should have new and used tires and wheels and be able to guide you in the right directiion. have your tire dealer/service person let you watch the process of changing a tire/wheel assembly and also watch them dismount and mount a tire on a wheel, then you can make an informed decision as to weather tire work is something that you can do or if it is better left to the professionals. also a good tire dealer can guide you to a competent front end alignment/drivability shop.
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