Spray vs Rolling Paint on Roof. How, why, what, where.

[o1marc]

If it ain't broke. don't fix it. I see no need for extra sealers on top. I'm glad my roof has no leak issues and am coating for cooling only, mine's tan not white.

[DoxieLuvr2015]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

Honestly, I don't want to. I'd rather spray the whole thing with automotive paint, including the roof (either epoxy or urethane). Much rather. My main concern is to prevent leaks from coming in around these 15-year-old rivets or seams, either now or in the future. I don't see any now (other than one rivet that's missing and will therefore need to be replaced), but I'm kind of wanting to future-proof things.

I plan on prepping well and resealing all seams as best I can before doing anything. I don't know if there's anything I can do around the rivets that would achieve the same results.

So yeah... if anyone can tell me how I can assure a good seal with auto paint, I'm all ears. Maybe I'm over other thinking things. Maybe it is a good seal?

I think I fall into the EPOXY/URETHANE camp as well. I have seen how a well it works if your surface is ready for primer and paint. Also theres that fact that it is sprayable and I am kinda looking for a gloss finish as well.

[Troutslayer]

I did my seams and all the suspect rivets on my 40 year old bus with a dicor self leveling caulk, then a painting contractor buddy of mine hooked me up with Sherwin Williams cool seal primer and a fiver of metal roof paint also from sherwin Williams. I went with flat finish in tan, rolled or brushed the entire bus, I have rain gutter channels over my windows so I did a quick cut in and rolled the top from the center of the roof with an extension handle. I’m always parked in the dirt so I wasn’t particularly worried about dirt build up on caulked seams or rivets, but to be honest the only dirt that’s showing is from my shoes where I climb up and down. It’s been a year since I painted it, so far the cool seal and top coat are holding up well, the dicor on the seams is bombproof no leaks at all....

[Bon Voyage]

Problems I’ve had with Henry’s Tropicool on the roof:
1: holds the dirt and looks dirty. Lots of spraying to get it to look clean.
2: scratches off easily as it’s fairly soft.
3: the sealant around vents and holes in the roof doesn’t stick well to the Henry’s

If I could go back I’d just paint the roof with a white gloss. And it would’ve been much cheaper.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Bon Voyage

Problems I’ve had with Henry’s Tropicool on the roof:
1: holds the dirt and looks dirty. Lots of spraying to get it to look clean.
2: scratches off easily as it’s fairly soft.
3: the sealant around vents and holes in the roof doesn’t stick well to the Henry’s

If I could go back I’d just paint the roof with a white gloss. And it would’ve been much cheaper.

Those first 2 are the main reasons I avoid it.

[scloughcarroll]

We used an Elastomeric Roof Roof coating to the "gutter" just above the windows, and used Rustoleum between the windows, to the underside of gutters up top and to the rub rail below the window. White for both so they blended together easily, taped all around but not between the two paints.

We rolled everything, with some brushwork on the windows, I had also pulled all the windows before painting to reseal them. gotten compliments on how it came out, it has a slight texture from the roller, but coverage is very even and it looks nice.

The Elastomeric we used was "white Knight" Brand from Home Depot here in Canada. I had heard of issues with the tropical but honestly this brand I used worked great, easy to apply, I did three coats and did it on a hot day as the product requires. Lots of sanding, and cleaning to prep the surface all around and apply is thick.

The only way to scratch it is to go at it with a metal object, which is fair enough. I have done lots of walking on it and building up there and with a little care, its held up great also has stayed very clean for the past year.


Tip for walking on the roof, stick to the areas with beams and support, avoid the middle of the sheets and between beams, mainly because consistent flexing of the sheet metal may cause some of your seams and rivets to leak. You're not going to hurt the roof walking on it though, these babies are built to last

I used polyurethane caulk on all my seams before applying the elastomeric, the combo has sealed my whole roof with no issues.

[Frogpondfoug]

Gave it a good good sand and painted it with a roller.
It looks amazing. The sides will be sprayed in spring

[Mekanic]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I doubt you'll dent the roof walking on it, but then I have no idea what you weigh. I would think trying to get a thick layer spraying may develope runs you won't get rolling.
.......

No you wont dent he top.

These long vehicles are made a almost flat plate and are riveted together. When they get 10-15 years old they start flexing a tiny bit. This leads to some small roof leaks. No EPOXY is strong enough to over come the forces that twist he bus. Epoxies are great,...just not for this.
Elastomeric coatings are the thing to use in this application.
And it needs to nice thick coat. Roller is great as well. Use a foot handle for the roller and you don't need to leave the ladder.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Frogpondfoug

Gave it a good good sand and painted it with a roller.
It looks amazing. The sides will be sprayed in spring

That looks GREAT!

[FuzzWantsABus]

In some of the older threads, folks used Bus Kote (Insulating roof paint for buses, recreational vehicles). Similar elastomeric, but has a topcoat which is supposed to help with fading/discoloring/dirt-trapping.



What's really intriguing to me is that they sell ceramic beads (Insulating Paint Additive Makes Paint Insulate) that can be mixed in to ANY paint to offer quite a bit of heat reduction--I am considering adding those to implement paint for a compromise.

[Free Bird]

I weigh 200 lbs and the roof on on my short bus flexes quite a bit if I don't stay on the hat channels. At 280 lbs a step in the wrong place and you would likely dent it. I gave my roof a good scrub with a barn broom and hose then followed up with a plastic dish scrubby, just enough to clean and scratch up the original paint.

Come painting time I stayed off the roof, used my pickup truck as a mobile scaffold (sheet of plywood cross the box). With a short extension had no trouble reaching past the middle with roller. Regular scaffold aught to work, just move the bus along it as needed. I think you could manage your prep work this way as well.

Put a couple of coats of flat white rust paint on, looks pretty decent and bin on for a year. There is some texture and it will hold some dust but not this summer what with all the rain.

[Doktari]

From the minimal few hours of research I’ve had time for I’m going with Liquid Roof EPDM coating. It’s a two part coating with a catalyst so it’s a chemical bond. If the description and reviews are accurate it will last. It can be put on thick in one coating as it’s a chemical reaction. It seals gaps. It won’t look as good as paint but I don’t have a bus for it to look good. The outdoor temperature is still barely warm enough so I plan on applying it within a week. I’m lazy so I just want something that seals, won’t fall off, and stays cool. And looks fine from a distance.

[Bon Voyage]

Spray foam insulation will also help seal leaks. If you use the heavier denser 2 lb foam.

[Doktari]

I don’t like to park that close to the surf to get foam on my rig. The salt also has some downsides.

[Dragonpop]

After extensive research we went with Henry’s Enviro White and applied two coats to get a good seal on the rivets and seams. It’s been on the roof for over 5 years with no failures or problems. It doesn’t collect dirt or debris but anytime you go up on the roof you need to wear sunglasses and it dropped the interior temperature by 10 degrees. Wouldn’t hesitate to use it again, I rolled it on.

[Free Bird]

Originally Posted by Doktari

I don’t like to park that close to the surf to get foam on my rig. The salt also has some downsides.

Yup, you would get salt down the sides!

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

I'll answer my own question... I should have done some research before posting.
It looks like spray elastomeric paint aint happening with any equipment I have.
Back to the drawing board.

I think cross rolling the roof would get better coverage and adhesion and you could stay on a ladder. Just don't try to get too big of a section "wetted" at a time. Spraying can result in "shadows" from rough surfaces or protrusions (rivets) not getting covered by spraying (and you can't see them while painting), especially if you can't get close and/or spray from an angle.


I'm going to stay out of the what kind of coating discussion. Too many variables.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by Native

We used 6" and 4" Eternabond on all seams and rivets. First we had to remove all of the silicone SOMEONE had put all over the rivets and some seams. The EternaBond does not stick to silicone. The EternaBond will *mostly* adhere tightly to the rivets. You do have to go slow around the rivets and press it in well arounnd them. A few of my first rivets did not get the proper attention as I had not yet learned the technique. They are sealed up, but do show a little pucker.


If I can find pictures of the rivets, I'll post them.

Does anything stick to silicone?

[oricha1984]

I think this topic has been discussed extensively.
I believe the end result was just white paint had the same benefits as all the other more expensive stuff.
I could be wrong, just search old threats