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Old 07-14-2015, 10:39 PM   #11
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Location: Montana
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: happy camper RV repair
Chassis: international
Engine: 360 international
Rated Cap: 66 passenger
I bought three girard water heaters and installed them in customer RV , they are Chinese junk. Not a single one made it more than 3 months with out work having to be done. This chinese junk cost more to fix that to replace . They are not worth the money
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:18 AM   #12
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Year: 1935
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I am using an Ecotemp L5 in my bus. I did have to go with the mfg's recommended pump to get the flow and pressure requirements met (google mfg for specifics--its just a standard low cost pump but I can't recall which at the moment). I also installed a water recirculating circuit which allows for truly "instant" hot water without any waste. The unit is in a sealed steel compartment inside the bus and gets it's air from below the floor and exhausts out of what was formerly a back window. The exhaust is very hot so it is important to have proper insulation and adequate air flow. It did take a little monkeying with the settings to get everything working, but once I did that the thing is great.
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:48 PM   #13
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Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
I will always use a tanked unit over any tankless.

When you install, read and research as much as I have, you will understand.

Nat

Nat,

Might you enlighten us a little? I am closing in on decisions for hot water and would be curious to hear why a tanked unit may be preferable in a bus.

After reading through your build thread, I think I will hold value to your word.

Thanks,
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
1991 International. DT 466. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. 1,022,XXX miles. Purchased July 2015. Work in progress.
Is the mileage really over 1 million? Amazing.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:47 AM   #15
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Littlefun, CO
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 66
I'm glad to read all the feedback on current installs and performance.

Not to hijack ii, but how bout electric tankless?
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:03 AM   #16
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Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I also installed a water recirculating circuit which allows for truly "instant" hot water without any waste.
As did I. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but as you mentioned it should allow for instant hot water. The recirculating circuit could also be opened to allow more flow when the tap is only opened slightly, eliminating the low-flow issue (though with a bit of monkeying around).
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:52 AM   #17
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Location: Alvin, TX
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Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
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Tankless LP Water Heater

I've enjoyed mine - but it's been used "hooked up"... Never with onboard water~ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437061996.254958.jpg
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:58 PM   #18
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroymix View Post
I'm glad to read all the feedback on current installs and performance.

Not to hijack ii, but how bout electric tankless?
Electric tankless "could work" -- depending on the flow and temperature rise expectation and the power hookup. Suppose you want a shower in the summer time. With daily temperatures ranging 65-95 F the fresh water tank temperature might be around 75 F, but the water from the hookups in the campground will be around 50 F. Suppose you're willing to take cool showers at 95 F and that you can get by with just 1.5 gallons per minute. You'd be looking for a heater that can provide a 45 F temperature rise at 1.5 GPM.

Mostly by dumb luck on the Home Depot web site the first thing I clicked was a Rheem 13 kW heater that met those parameters almost exactly.

For this usage it's a simple question of "will I have 13 kW available when I want hot water?" That's 13000/240 = about 55 amps. (the product web page recommends a 60 amp breaker) There surely will be some among us who could make that work but probably most will say "mmmm, I'm going to have to use gas or liquid fuel to get that much energy."
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Old 07-16-2015, 02:12 PM   #19
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Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ii_amnt View Post
Nat,

Might you enlighten us a little? I am closing in on decisions for hot water and would be curious to hear why a tanked unit may be preferable in a bus.

After reading through your build thread, I think I will hold value to your word.

Thanks,
I'm at work right now, but will answer this in full detail later.

Nat
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Old 07-16-2015, 05:32 PM   #20
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Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
Posts: 84
Year: 1991
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Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Quote:
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Is the mileage really over 1 million? Amazing.
I was weary, but all seems well and was fully serviced and inspected by the local diesel mechanic. He had several DT 466 engines in his yard that made it over the million mile mark. I have learned from working with older Mercedes diesels that mileage is not something to be afraid of, but the quality and consistency of maintenance cane be the real deciding factor. Sometimes, the fact that it made it that far can be a testament to the maintenance history.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Destroymix View Post
I'm glad to read all the feedback on current installs and performance.

Not to hijack ii, but how bout electric tankless?
I would be curious to hear from those that have one that can do propane or electric. Electric when shored up and propane for when off-grid would be interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
I'm at work right now, but will answer this in full detail later.

Nat
Looking forward to it!
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