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Old 11-26-2017, 04:00 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
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There isn't a lot of space between the tire and the wheelwell in the back, maybe 4-6 inches? There's at least 12-16 inches, give or take in the front. I was thinking a putting a lift kit. Will that help or hurt it?

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Old 11-26-2017, 04:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1031A1 View Post
My 3208 Cat has the same clearance. Due to being so close to the rear axle (diesel pusher) I'm not worried. My cargo bays have 11 inches of clearance, so that is my first concern.

Hope this helps.

M
Mine has the engine in the front.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:14 PM   #23
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I was thinking a putting a lift kit.
I've also wondered about this. Is it possible without effecting a major change in center of gravity and thus its' driving characteristics? I'm only thinking 2-3".


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Old 11-26-2017, 05:19 PM   #24
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I'm driving a FE on backroads and I drag either bumper frequently on rough roads, but there is no sign of anything else ever touching the ground. The only exception was when I got the rear wheels buried
in mud and everything was closer to the ground. Do no take these things offroad in wet conditions. Stay on the gravel roads and you'll be fine.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:22 PM   #25
Skoolie
 
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I'm driving a FE on backroads and I drag either bumper frequently on rough roads, but there is no sign of anything else ever touching the ground. The only exception was when I got the rear wheels buried
in mud and everything was closer to the ground. Do no take these things offroad in wet conditions. Stay on the gravel roads and you'll be fine.
How low does your oil pan from the ground? Is it the same like mine?
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:26 PM   #26
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How low does your oil pan from the ground? Is it the same like mine?
Your oil pan is fine.
Does it look like its ever hit anything?
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:36 PM   #27
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Your oil pan is fine.
Does it look like its ever hit anything?
No idea. Except for driving from Md to Fl, it was all flat top. It's now in storage and hasn't been driven since. I'm in the process of slowly gutting the inside.
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Old 11-26-2017, 06:58 PM   #28
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Yes, I'd say my oil pan is about a foot off the ground. There are no marks on my oil pan, and I mistreat my bus likely more than most people.

Stop worrying about your oil pan and move on. It's hard to imagine you would go on rougher ground than I do.

If you laid down on the ground in front of your bus and someone drove over you, what parts are going to contact your body? Probably the front axle. Mine front axle is about four inches off the ground and nothing contacts it. For rougher ground than that you should have held out for a 4x4.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:25 PM   #29
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Yes, I'd say my oil pan is about a foot off the ground. There are no marks on my oil pan, and I mistreat my bus likely more than most people.

Stop worrying about your oil pan and move on. It's hard to imagine you would go on rougher ground than I do.

If you laid down on the ground in front of your bus and someone drove over you, what parts are going to contact your body? Probably the front axle. Mine front axle is about four inches off the ground and nothing contacts it. For rougher ground than that you should have held out for a 4x4.
I know I shouldn't worry, but this something that is outside of anything I'm familiar with. I made arrangements for myself and my brother to fly up to Md. Once there I was going to get a local mechanic to check it out. The seller was suppose to pick us up. We waited for almost 3 hours before I decided to get the situation under control. I called him up that we were hadn't over there. I still had to wait an additional hour so I didn't see the bus until it was dark. I know I should of walked away. But after the time, effort and money spent to get my brother and myself up there, I said the hell with it and took the bus. Luckily for me I didn't get a lemon. It was driven a thousand miles just fine except for a hiccup.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:38 PM   #30
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I like rough, back country roads so the 1/4" steel skid plate is my solution. And mine is not all that low.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:48 PM   #31
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I like rough, back country roads so the 1/4" steel skid plate is my solution. And mine is not all that low.
Ok, I'll check it out. Thanks. By the way you wouldn't by chance know about 3126B motor? I keep hearing about AT000 engines and I was wondering what mine was. And how powerful it is. I did hear how good cummins was. I was looking for a specific type of bus and they seemed few and far between. So I so this bus which met my specs and was told it was a cummins, I snapped it up. Imagine my surprise when I was told it was a caterpillar instead, but the mechanic who looked at it after I got home said it was a good engine.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:59 PM   #32
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There seems to be two camps regarding Cat engines. Love vs Hate. Personally, they seem to be solid engines, but Cat has a reputation for exceptionally high priced parts. Almost any well maintained diesel will provide decades of service but some will do it for less money than others. There are a few relatively "newer" motors that have really bad reps but I will let other, more knowledgeable sources here name them.
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Old 11-26-2017, 08:55 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
There seems to be two camps regarding Cat engines. Love vs Hate. Personally, they seem to be solid engines, but Cat has a reputation for exceptionally high priced parts. Almost any well maintained diesel will provide decades of service but some will do it for less money than others. There are a few relatively "newer" motors that have really bad reps but I will let other, more knowledgeable sources here name them.
What do you mean by Almost any well maintained diesel will provide decades of service but "some will do it for less money than others."
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:16 PM   #34
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What do you mean by Almost any well maintained diesel will provide decades of service but "some will do it for less money than others."
He means that there is absolutely nothing wrong with CAT and Mercedes engines. They are strong and long-lasting.

However, we also need to consider what happens IF they do go wrong.

The wet-sleeve engines can be rebuilt without removing the engine from the frame. No biggie for a full-service shop, but a potential deal-breaker on your driveway. Just a note here to say that over-heating, and not running hot enough are the prime causes of early engine failure. Ironically, the wet sleeves are more prone to over-heating than parent bore engines, so while they are easier to fix check the one you are buying carefully.

Whether it has to come out or not, CAT and Mercedes charge an arm and a leg for parts, Cummins and Navistar not so much.

For us, the ideal engine is a straight six with wet-sleeves. That's not to say the others are bad, but it's good insurance.

Part of the problem is that the B50 ratings don't mean a lot in school buses. Quite frankly, the engines in school buses are subjected to extreme service, and many break long before the same engine would break in a freight truck that runs 12 hours a day.

A good diesel engine, any of them, could easily outlive you and a couple of your descendants, but some won't so what are you going to do then? Fix it at home for maybe $3000, or pay someone else to do it for $7500?
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:48 PM   #35
Skoolie
 
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Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
He means that there is absolutely nothing wrong with CAT and Mercedes engines. They are strong and long-lasting.

However, we also need to consider what happens IF they do go wrong.

The wet-sleeve engines can be rebuilt without removing the engine from the frame. No biggie for a full-service shop, but a potential deal-breaker on your driveway. Just a note here to say that over-heating, and not running hot enough are the prime causes of early engine failure. Ironically, the wet sleeves are more prone to over-heating than parent bore engines, so while they are easier to fix check the one you are buying carefully.

Whether it has to come out or not, CAT and Mercedes charge an arm and a leg for parts, Cummins and Navistar not so much.

For us, the ideal engine is a straight six with wet-sleeves. That's not to say the others are bad, but it's good insurance.

Part of the problem is that the B50 ratings don't mean a lot in school buses. Quite frankly, the engines in school buses are subjected to extreme service, and many break long before the same engine would break in a freight truck that runs 12 hours a day.

A good diesel engine, any of them, could easily outlive you and a couple of your descendants, but some won't so what are you going to do then? Fix it at home for maybe $3000, or pay someone else to do it for $7500?
God, I hate to say it but you might as well be speaking Greek. Thanks for the info though.
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