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Old 10-01-2006, 03:30 PM   #11
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Here's what I used on my Thomas SaftLiner

http://www.hitchesonline.com/rv_hitch.htm

Jay



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Old 10-02-2006, 10:37 AM   #12
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i am totally in love with the pintle hitch. It is a far superiour design than a standard ball. I really wish my trailer had a pintle on it.

not only can you pull tons of weight, but the angle of the trailer in relation to the tow vehicle is never a concern as far as popping the trailer off of teh ball.
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Old 10-02-2006, 12:25 PM   #13
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Pintles are cool, but they do suffer from one major disadvantage over a ball hitch....they are loud. I don't think that it's an issue for a bus just because we have so much noise anyway and the hitch is 30 feet behind you, but they are popular on offroad campers and they get downright annoying.
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Old 12-01-2006, 02:47 PM   #14
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I would seriously qestion the ability of the bumper itself to hold that weight. The bumpers are just meant for little....well.....bumps. The actual crash protection and frame strength comes from the crossmembers. Jake has the good fortune of having a rather solid looking crossmember right at the back of his bus, most likely due to his engine. It iwould takea whole lot of calculations to determine if one is strong enough for a given load, but commonsense can probably prevail. If it's questionable, add more steel

Personally, I'm still keeping my eyes open for a class 4 hitch that will work. It's not that one of the other bolt on solutions wouldn't work, but the receiver style will give me some drop and will allow me to use a dropped ball mount on top of that. I don't know about the frame heights on othre peoples' buses, but I know mine is too high to allow the use of one of those bolt on pintle hitch assemblies on a regular trailer.

One other thing....when you make your move, be careful. A trailer weighing more than 10,000 lbs and you'll be needing a CDL. You'll also need trailer brakes of some kind in most states. I'm not sure if having a combined weight of over 26,000 is going to matter as long as you have RV plates. I would research it all bery well though. Some states DO require even motorhomes to weigh up at the port of enry and I can't imagine that would be a pleasant experience.
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:37 PM   #15
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One advantage I found having a pintle hitch trailer is that someone looking to borrow a trailer takes one glance and looks elsewhere.
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:29 AM   #16
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34" is a standard width for truck frames.

In a small town, a local welding shop can probably do you a good deal
on a custom weld-in. Mine cost $300, which included cutting off the tow
hooks and related extensions and cross member.

Welding it on is not final. When I switched to a newer bus, I cut the
welded hitch off with a cut-off saw. I rented a big commercial one
because I had other cutting to do also, but a $40 angle grinder and a
few blades will do it -- and now you own a very handy angle grinder.

How long a rear overhang do you have? If your engine is in the front,
you have a long rear overhang and your trailer may scrape on the
ground. I mashed my trailer landing gear in a filling station driveway.
On my new bus, I'm putting the hitch all the way up in the frame.


If you plan to move the hitch to another 34" frame, then have the shop
fabricate it to be bolted in.

Mass produced hitches are usually made to bolt to the flanges of the
frame. I sure prefer to bolt to the web of the frame.

Good luck, and Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-24-2006, 01:41 AM   #17
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Now that you put it up higher how will this effect the rear of the trailer?
Wouldn't that bottom out now? Or do you use a drop hitch on it?

I have drivin a couple 40 foot school buses with maybe a 25 foot band trailer on the back and even with the hitch below the bumper using a straight hitch insert the back and the hitch would bottom out if I either wasn't careful or the parking lot or road design was not real good and I couldn't avoid it.
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Old 12-24-2006, 04:20 AM   #18
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The trailer I've been using has a short rear overhang; I moved the axle rearward
on it. But I am also going to flip the axle to under the springs for more ground
clearance. That will make it harder to roll vehicles up on it, but I am tired of
smacking the ground.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:52 PM   #19
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DO NOT EVER WELD ON A FRAME! Many are heat-treated, and will be severely weakened by the heat of welding.
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Old 01-07-2007, 10:59 PM   #20
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I believe that the tags say "DO NOT CUT, WELD OR DRILL FRAMERAIL FLANGES". Although I agree that welding on framerails is not a good practice to get into. It is better to fabricate brackets and then drill and bolt thru the web, with properly sized grade 5 bolts. Grade 8 bolts have high tensile strength, but are hard/brittle, less shear strength. Grade 5 bolts have high shear strength, but are more elastic, less clamping force. If you look at the supplied hardware in a store bought hitch package you will find grade 5 bolts, its an engineering/application issue, not an accounting/cost issue
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