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Old 01-14-2017, 09:22 AM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Year: 1988
Chassis: M88
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Originally Posted by Adventure Bus View Post
This looks like a good setup. I too am very curious if it has to be removed while driving. I want to do a stove but if the pipe has to be removed every time then it's a no go for me.
Did you use any special high wind or marine grade chimney?
Does any ash come in at all if you hit the road?
Do you just let the fire burn out, close the flue and go?

Thanks for any info

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Adventure Bus, Thanks for the comment, I leave the chimney installed and never take it out. The fastest I have been is 75 MPH and it hasn't fallen off lol. The chimney is all from Menard's including the all season cap. I have had driven with a fire that has burned down to coals while driving and did not have any back-draft. I literately just cut a hole in the roof put the pipe through in and then installed Dektite flashing over it put the cap on and lit the fire lol. Cheers! Brad

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Old 01-14-2017, 10:05 AM   #22
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Adventure Bus, Thanks for the comment, I leave the chimney installed and never take it out. The fastest I have been is 75 MPH and it hasn't fallen off lol. The chimney is all from Menard's including the all season cap. I have had driven with a fire that has burned down to coals while driving and did not have any back-draft. I literately just cut a hole in the roof put the pipe through in and then installed Dektite flashing over it put the cap on and lit the fire lol. Cheers! Brad
Perfect. That's the info I needed. I've seen so many people say "you need a removable section and seal it and wait till it's completely burnt out before moving the bus" but I plan on being on the move often and not long in the same place so that would be a deal breaker.
This sounds perfect though. I just need to find a pretty airtight stove.

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Old 01-14-2017, 10:22 AM   #23
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With a stove pipe ending close to the roof, seems like a vacuum effect would be created on the chimney versus inducing backflow.
At speed.
?
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:28 AM   #24
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:35 AM   #25
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Double07, thanks for the comment. Well I'm no expert or chimneys engineering lol but I can tell you I have done it.... I drove with a bed of red coals with no back-draft. I have never done it with a roaring fire... (I might have to test that one out now lol) Next time I will take a vid.. Cheers, Brad
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Old 01-14-2017, 03:50 PM   #26
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Hey Bfrey, thanks for getting back to me with all those details. Also awesome of you to include those build pix (which you did a great job showing the process ). It's refreshing to hear your logic and mentality regarding your stove. It eases a lot (but not all) of my fear and anxiety I have for installing my wood stove.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:38 PM   #27
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Came across this stove on the net, looks pretty nice.

https://www.unforgettablefirellc.com...ly-wood-stove/
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Old 01-22-2017, 05:23 PM   #28
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Kimberly stoves are supposedly really good. But I have yet to hear anyone report about it because they cost about the same as a decent bus.

The "TOTAL installation costs are similar to a $2,000 wood stove" is a funny statement.

They estimate a regular wood stove chimney pipe to be 1500, 450 for shipping handling, and 500 floor pad.

I didn't know Kimberlies used chimney pipes though, I thought one of the main appeal to them was that they were rocket stoves which didn't need to be vented.

Regardless you are correct, they are very nice stoves. Just a little pricey at 4k.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:47 PM   #29
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With a stove pipe ending close to the roof, seems like a vacuum effect would be created on the chimney versus inducing backflow.
At speed.
?
Well, I went winter camping with the family this weekend and I drove twice today with a full fire going. I had 5 compressed eco logs, approximately 15 pounds burning with the pipe damper full open. Top speed of 65 mph with zero smoke and pipe temp at 300 degrees on a 5 ft permanent pipe. And I video recorded the whole event if anybody wants to see it. I must say it was pretty funny the looks I got.... lol cheers Brad

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Old 01-27-2017, 10:56 PM   #30
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Well, I went winter camping with the family this weekend and I drove twice today with a full fire going. I had 5 compressed eco logs, approximately 15 pounds burning with the pipe damper full open. Top speed of 65 mph with zero smoke and pipe temp at 300 degrees on a 5 ft permanent pipe. And I video recorded the whole event if anybody wants to see it. I must say it was pretty funny the looks I got.... lol cheers Brad

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Old 01-28-2017, 09:34 AM   #31
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bfrey92: How do you find the chimney's draft with a short stack? Do you get smoke rolling out the door when loading, or a fire that's difficult to get started? It looks like you have a large diameter chimney, so perhaps that makes up for the height.. What are your thoughts?
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:03 AM   #32
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bfrey92: How do you find the chimney's draft with a short stack? Do you get smoke rolling out the door when loading, or a fire that's difficult to get started? It looks like you have a large diameter chimney, so perhaps that makes up for the height.. What are your thoughts?
Starting the fire.. no draft. Fire in between after starting and fully heated fire I will get a small backdraft of smoke only when I open the door. Once fire is going no issues. So I start the fire and don't open the door until fire is up and going that way no back draft. I am using 6 in pipe and 6 in class A. Cheers.

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Old 01-28-2017, 10:07 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by bfrey92 View Post
Starting the fire.. no draft. Fire in between after starting and fully heated fire I will get a small backdraft of smoke only when I open the door. Once fire is going no issues. So I start the fire and don't open the door until fire is up and going that way no back draft. I am using 6 in pipe and 6 in class A. Cheers.
Nice.. Is that stove a single stage burner, or does it have secondary? I couldn't get a decent draft on my stove with secondary burn without extending the chimney. I suspect that the additional twists and turns of the secondary burn system reduce the draft.
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:11 AM   #34
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
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Nice.. Is that stove a single stage burner, or does it have secondary? I couldn't get a decent draft on my stove with secondary burn without extending the chimney. I suspect that the additional twists and turns of the secondary burn system reduce the draft.
Single stage, approximately 1ft of standard 6in pipe and one 4ft section of class A pipe with an all weather cap all purchased from Menards.

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Old 01-28-2017, 10:13 AM   #35
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Nice.. Is that stove a single stage burner, or does it have secondary? I couldn't get a decent draft on my stove with secondary burn without extending the chimney. I suspect that the additional twists and turns of the secondary burn system reduce the draft.
I am experiencing the same problem and i also suspect my secondary burn chamber to be the culprit. I even get a pulsing that builds until i close the damer completely. It is a bit of problem, however once going not a speck of smoke coming out of the chimney. It is reaply amazing to have a raging fire and look up at the chimney and nothing but heat waves like a dryer vent.

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Old 01-28-2017, 10:19 AM   #36
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I am experiencing the same problem and i also suspect my secondary burn chamber to be the culprit. I even get a pulsing that builds until i close the damer completely. It is a bit of problem, however once going not a speck of smoke coming out of the chimney. It is reaply amazing to have a raging fire and look up at the chimney and nothing but heat waves like a dryer vent.
Darn tootin'! I'm in awe of it every time I look up at it. When I'm outside it's a good indication of how the fire is coming along. Often when starting the fire I'll put kindling in, get the fire stabilised, leave the damper all the way open and carry on with my activities (which are often outdoors). I can periodically check the chimney for burn progress. If it's still smoking the stove isn't up to temperature yet. If it's nothing but heat waves then I better get in there and close the damper some!
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:14 AM   #37
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I am experiencing the same problem and i also suspect my secondary burn chamber to be the culprit. I even get a pulsing that builds until i close the damer completely. It is a bit of problem, however once going not a speck of smoke coming out of the chimney. It is reaply amazing to have a raging fire and look up at the chimney and nothing but heat waves like a dryer vent.

You may want to consider installing a pipe above the exhaust point with baffles. One or two baffles can make a big difference. They only need to extend 1/3 of the distance into the tube. You can also install a draft stove blower.
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:41 AM   #38
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Here is a very crude drawing of the rocket stove I will be installing in our bus at some point in the future.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ewy...ew?usp=sharing

With a thermal transfer coil, we should be able to run the stove and provide both air heating and under floor radiant heat.

A properly built stove from a box that is 12" x 12" in size and about 2-3 foot in height, will produce about 10-15K BTU and consume about 3 lbs of wood/wood pellets per hour. We can use propane/webesco to bring the bus up to temp if it starts to get cold and have a fire for overnight warmth. I plan to be able to load 8-10 lbs of pellets or sticks into the stove for night time burning.
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:03 PM   #39
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Class A to 6in Adapter

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TAOLIK, Hi i will post my hearth build pic in a little bit, I built over the wheel well 2x4 frame with spaced apart for heat distribution. Framing in approx. 1 inch from wainscotting on the side wall. I then screwed hardy backer board on (1/2 in), and then put the brick on (concrete) with thin-set followed up with regular mortar mix for 1/2 joints. The stove is anchored by large turnbuckles to eyelets screwed in the frame. The stove is approx. 7 inches away from the brick on the side and back of the stove. The wall behind the drivers seat is open for heat to exchange. With the stove a roaring, I can put my hand on the hardy board between wall or behind the seat and hold it there all day long. In my opinion, the brick in nice to look at vs. steel heat shield and the brick radiates the heat well once warmed up. 2. The chimney is one 4ft class A pipe and adapters from class A to standard 6 in pipe which is approx. 12 in. So my pipe is approx 5ft tall! LOL and it drafts the smoke out perfectly. All i did was cut the hole installed pipe, then installed the Dektite High temp Pipe Flashing seal and screw in to the roof, add the all weather cap and light the fire. I have had 3 big rains and a snow with zero leaks. I have driven 75 mph with this setup with no movement or back-draft. I have gone down the road with fire burned down to coals with no smoke. With regards to chimney covers, do you mean a cloth cover for the chimney itself or the cap? All chimney parts were purchased at Menard's.
Hey there love this wood stove and hearth! Almost got mine setup the exact same way but I cant find a 6in single wall to Class A (10in) adapter ANYWHERE! Where did you get yours? Would love for any insight into why these adapters are so good at hiding. Winter is on it's way and I'm ready for a fire
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