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Old 02-04-2019, 03:40 PM   #1
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Usable interior width

Been searching for posts on this and can't find what I'm looking for. Typically buses are 7.5 feet wide. How much of that width is usable after a typical conversion?

This will help me with layout plans. Should I account for losing an inch of width on each side? Two inches? Three?

After putting in insulation, how much room do you need for wiring/electric components?

Is there anything else you might want to put in the walls besides wiring? Not counting any decorative panels/wood/treatment, which obviously will decrease overall usable width further...

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2019, 06:04 PM   #2
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7.5 wide not including the chair rail that sticks out about 1.5" I will insulate and frame out to the edge of that lip, so realistically 87" or 7'3"
It's hard to put wiring in walls without drilling through all the ribs. The cavity under the chair rail is optimum for running wires.
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:35 PM   #3
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7.5 wide not including the chair rail that sticks out about 1.5" I will insulate and frame out to the edge of that lip, so realistically 87" or 7'3"
It's hard to put wiring in walls without drilling through all the ribs. The cavity under the chair rail is optimum for running wires.
Thanks! does the chair rail come all the way up to the bottom of the window?
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:41 PM   #4
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Thanks! does the chair rail come all the way up to the bottom of the window?
The chair rail is what the outsides of the seats bolt to. It's approx. 8-10" from the floor.
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:16 PM   #5
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The chair rail is what the outsides of the seats bolt to. It's approx. 8-10" from the floor.
Are you not also insulating and framing out the area between the top of the chair rail and the bottom of the window?
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Old 02-04-2019, 08:23 PM   #6
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Are you not also insulating and framing out the area between the top of the chair rail and the bottom of the window?
That sheet metal is usually spot welded just below the bottom of the window and screwed or riveted at the bottom. Remove the bottom hardware and then cut the metal about 1/2" below the weld spots and remove the metal. Replace with foam insulation and then whatever wall covering you have planned.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:08 PM   #7
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That sheet metal is usually spot welded just below the bottom of the window and screwed or riveted at the bottom. Remove the bottom hardware and then cut the metal about 1/2" below the weld spots and remove the metal. Replace with foam insulation and then whatever wall covering you have planned.
I'm having trouble picturing the final result. Do you have any pics? Seems there would be an awkwardly low ledge (the chair rail, with framing below it), that sticks out only slightly from the insulating and covered area above the chair rail...
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:25 PM   #8
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I think this is basically what Marc and others have described for their plans, but I'll let him or someone else confirm that.
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:25 PM   #9
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My chair rail and the cable run above the window both stick out about 1". I use 1" double-faced rigid foam insulation between. The distance is a bit over 4'. One 4'x8' panel fits nicely between the rails.For the overhead, a double-faced bubble insulation https://www.insulation4less.com/Insu...aspx#fragment1 would be best.
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Old 02-06-2019, 12:48 AM   #10
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I think this is basically what Marc and others have described for their plans, but I'll let him or someone else confirm that.
That pic makes sense to me...but Marc said “it’s hard to put wires in the walls without cutting through all the ribs...the cavity below the chair rail is optimum for placing wires.”

That made me think he wasn’t going to frame out a cavity ABOVE the chair rail, he was only going to frame out below it. That’s what I’m having a hard time picturing...
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