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Old 04-21-2016, 02:52 PM   #1
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Wall framing failure

So I thought this was going to work nicely but not so much.



Seemed to make sense but as you can see the top 2x4 is not very stable. I was going to have the finished wall attached to those 2x4s and it works out that those would be flush. Now it is back to the drawing board. The only other ideas I have is to attach the studs right onto the ribs or put the one right under the window laying the other way... if I do that the ribs come out more than the stud and I'm unsure how to avoid thermal bridging. I think I'm just going to attach them right onto the ribs because I'm not sure what else could make sense. I would be left with a thermal bridge at every screw head on the framing if I go this route... I could do it where I screw the 2x4s in the way I was doing it and just use something to support the top 2x4 from turning. Any thoughts or ideas for me?
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:54 PM   #2
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I suppose I could pre drill a hole partially into the wood and countersink the screw past the 2x4 where my finished wall will touch and just cover it with wood glue to avoid the screw touching the finished wall?
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:59 PM   #3
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run the studs horizontally and attach them to the ribs with long self tapping screws. use some liquid nails too, to help keep down rattles.

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Old 04-21-2016, 03:02 PM   #4
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why not run the 2X4 vertically along the rib and drill into the rib itself with a self tapper? You could insulate with a thermal barrier bubble wrap before pressing the wood into it.

Just a thought....
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:03 PM   #5
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run the studs horizontally and attach them to the ribs with long self tapping screws. use some liquid nails too, to help keep down rattles.
LOL, too quick for me, but similar ideas!
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:26 PM   #6
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Is thermal bridging really that big of a deal? Both of those scenarios would have every screw head touching the finished wall and I read a bunch of stuff saying you want to avoid that.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:29 PM   #7
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Also when drilling into the ribs are you still predrilling a hole? What happens if your screw lines up with a preexisting rivet hole?
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:33 PM   #8
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And for the foam board insulation would there be any reason not to get it thick enough to fill the whole space between outside skin and the metal pocket from the seat rail?
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:40 PM   #9
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I'm probably over thinking it. Running them horizontally and making sure the screw is sunk into the wood at least 1/8 inch is probably fine?
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:21 PM   #10
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Apologies if you said so already, and I missed it...but are you planning on re-using the inner metal panel to cover the framing?
Usually, people cover interiors with plywood.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:36 PM   #11
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I'm probably over thinking it.
Yeah, I do that all the time too. Running the furring strips(studs) horizontal and then putting insulation between them will work great. Its what I did, but then again I used 3" of insulation so my walls are a little thicker, but I'm not too worried about "Thermal Bridging."
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:53 PM   #12
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I was planning on foam board, then horizontal furring strips, then more foam, then 1/4 rough ply then nice stuff (probably cedar wainscot)
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:45 PM   #13
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Hmm I didn't think about that. If I put plywood over the framing and then finished paneling or something that would avoid the thermal bridge
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Old 04-22-2016, 07:06 AM   #14
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Hmm I didn't think about that. If I put plywood over the framing and then finished paneling or something that would avoid the thermal bridge
Yup. Natster had the idea of ripping 4x8 sheet of non-OSB plywood into 4 inch widths. It may take me forever with the small table saw I've got, but that's how I plan on making all my furring strips.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:47 AM   #15
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I did that in 2in widths for my floor but why would you want the true 4in over the 3.5 that you would get from 2x4s?
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:05 AM   #16
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I was planning on foam board, then horizontal furring strips, then more foam, then 1/4 rough ply then nice stuff (probably cedar wainscot)
Got the same plan. Pulled all the inner wall and all the old insulation. I used the 1" white foam board with the tin foil on one side. Put the insulation in were old was then furring strips on each metal stud and just to bottom of windows and and bottom of wall. Will fill the gaps again with 1" foam and then the finish wall we decide to use.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:08 AM   #17
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.but are you planning on re-using the inner metal panel to cover the framing?
Mine is being reused to patch the chicken coops roof
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:23 AM   #18
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Mine is being reused to patch the chicken coops roof
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