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Old 07-31-2016, 04:36 AM   #21
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Here is the link to my unit:

Marey Tankless Hot Water Heater Propane Gas 3 1 GPM Digital Temp Gauge RV | eBay

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Old 08-04-2016, 09:54 AM   #22
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Seems like both the Marey and Eco Temp units have very mixed reviews on Amazon. Either 5 stars or 1 star. I like the idea of these and the prices are good but i am skeptical....
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:06 AM   #23
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I used a 40 gallon residential unit and a 150 gallon tube so wifey can soak and be happy

I have it hooked up for 120 and 240, works great for 50 hook up!

If I know we are staying at a 30 amp only sight, I will preheat water day before trip so we have hot water for the first evening
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offgr1d View Post
I use the Marey tankless LP... Just used short duct up to roof vent. Vent pipe only gets warm to touch after a good 10min plus shower. No limit to my hot water usage. I have used it everyday (sometimes multiple times a day) for over 1 year now. Im only on my 3rd BBQ tank... I couldn't praise this unit enough. Like another mentioned - you need enough water pressure to trigger it on.. A good RV pump or two helps. This unit hangs on wall, attached a gas flex line connected to a BBQ regulator. It has a duct vent on top ready for exhaust. Works perfect.
Ohh, and I used a top of the line Airstream tanked RV water heater before. They are the worst. I would never do a tank... Short shower / gas hungry / wait to heat up / runs out of water.... BBQ tank used in less than a week with two people taking showers..
Just my 2 cents from hot water RV experience....
Where/how did you mount this unit? I see that most of the manuf. recommend lots of space around the unit.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:08 PM   #25
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I have it inside the bus on the wall behind the bathroom. It's vented all the way around in a medium size utility closet that's vented. Basically it just needs to breath and the heat exhausts up to roof vent less than a foot. It never gets too warm to touch. I was a little skeptical for how the manufacturer stated the space needed, but after testing I was not worried at all for how it's mounted.. I'm sure that's about liability and people enclosing it too much...
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:16 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offgr1d View Post
I have it inside the bus on the wall behind the bathroom. It's vented all the way around in a medium size utility closet that's vented. Basically it just needs to breath and the heat exhausts up to roof vent less than a foot. It never gets too warm to touch. I was a little skeptical for how the manufacturer stated the space needed, but after testing I was not worried at all for how it's mounted.. I'm sure that's about liability and people enclosing it too much...
That's a relief. We've been sorta stumped on the water heater issue because our solar would not support one and we don't want a generator. Do you have a photo of your setup?
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:25 AM   #27
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When going with a tanked water heater is residential ok or should I get a rv heater
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:57 PM   #28
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We got an Eccoteml i12 LP and love it!

Here's a link : NEW Eccotemp i12-LP Indoor Tankless Water Heater


See that big stock tank? I fill that bad boy up all the way with hot water. Excellent on propane, we use a standard grill sized one every couple months (cooking too).

Click image for larger version

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ID:	10999
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:54 PM   #29
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Has anyone tried any of the tankless LP units above 5500ft ASL? Id like one of the ecotemp units but on their website it says "Field tested to 5500 ft. elevation (not recommended to be used any higher)" It says this on a few models, guessing it might apply to other brands as well?

The lot where I'll be setting my bus is at about 7400 ft and I was planning on using a tankless LP unit...
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:15 PM   #30
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I was just given a smaller lp rv water heater unit. Looks to be in decent shape no time to mess with it yet. Free to anyone who wants to come pick it up.
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maggiemae View Post
We got an Eccoteml i12 LP and love it!

Here's a link : NEW Eccotemp i12-LP Indoor Tankless Water Heater


See that big stock tank? I fill that bad boy up all the way with hot water. Excellent on propane, we use a standard grill sized one every couple months (cooking too).

Attachment 10999

Can you get a close up picture of your water heater installation? Top, front, & bottom

Purty please?
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:47 PM   #32
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It is my understanding that nearly all of the tankless models can be reset for altitude. There are a group of internal switches or some such that can be calibrated to adjust for altitude. Anyone else know more?
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:20 PM   #33
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Good Eccotemp L5 reviews toward bottom of page.
See Eccotemp L5 Portable Tankless Water Heater and Outdoor Shower reviews. - Tankless Water Heater Electric

Personally, I could not be happier with mine!
They even sent a true stainless steel hose and a very good functioning shower head with shut-off.... Similar item would be $30 or more at Home Depot.

My Eccotemp L5 was $118, total shipped price at Amazon
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:04 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maggiemae View Post
We got an Eccoteml i12 LP and love it!

Here's a link : NEW Eccotemp i12-LP Indoor Tankless Water Heater


See that big stock tank? I fill that bad boy up all the way with hot water. Excellent on propane, we use a standard grill sized one every couple months (cooking too).

Attachment 10999
The "indoor" models seem nice and prob are more suited to permanent skoolie use, but I do like that the L5 and L10 "outdoor" models use D batteries and do not require 120v. How has the energy usage been for these indoor models with 120v?
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:08 PM   #35
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I'm trying to figure out how I want to run hot water in the bus. I want one single sink and one outdoor shower. Initially I thought of making a system using a 3x8 20 plate heat exchanger, but his would only work while my engine is hot. Then I came across this thread, and its looking like the Ecotemp L5 is a winner. However, I wan to run a sink as well. Here are my thoughts on a system. From the water tank, water will flow into a pump, after the pump, I will "t" one line to the cold sink and to cold shower. The other side of the "t" would then go into the L5. The output on that would "t" to the hot sink and hot shower. This way I could run a hot/cold faucet and hot/cold shower valve. I also could throw the heat exchanger in the mix just upstream of the L5, so when the bus is running hot, the water going into the L5 would already be hot and not need much more heat added..... Thoughts? concerns?? insults????
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDR76 View Post
I'm trying to figure out how I want to run hot water in the bus. I want one single sink and one outdoor shower. Initially I thought of making a system using a 3x8 20 plate heat exchanger, but his would only work while my engine is hot. Then I came across this thread, and its looking like the Ecotemp L5 is a winner. However, I wan to run a sink as well. Here are my thoughts on a system. From the water tank, water will flow into a pump, after the pump, I will "t" one line to the cold sink and to cold shower. The other side of the "t" would then go into the L5. The output on that would "t" to the hot sink and hot shower. This way I could run a hot/cold faucet and hot/cold shower valve. I also could throw the heat exchanger in the mix just upstream of the L5, so when the bus is running hot, the water going into the L5 would already be hot and not need much more heat added..... Thoughts? concerns?? insults????
You probably don't want water coming out of your fixtures at 180 plus degrees.
The plate heat exchanger will work well but you probably need to be able to regulate your water temperature. Perhaps a tank or a tempering valve.
Others have done this perhaps they will reply.
I have used a cheapo tank less heater for years with no problems.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:48 PM   #37
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I wouldn't do engine heat exchanger.. Reason is adding too much heat / regulation as stated above and one more place for a leak / engine coolant issue... The on demand is already so efficient, it is totally unnecessary to add another form of hot water production. You will be happy with LP instant units.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
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You probably don't want water coming out of your fixtures at 180 plus degrees.
The plate heat exchanger will work well but you probably need to be able to regulate your water temperature. Perhaps a tank or a tempering valve.
Others have done this perhaps they will reply.
I have used a cheapo tank less heater for years with no problems.

Good point about having water TOO hot coming from fixtures. I hope someone that has tried this chimes in, I'm sure there are more problems than I am seeing. I could still run the same system, just loose the plate exchanger, or perhaps put a valve on it to slow the flow. (I kept one of the "under seat" heaters from the bus, so there is coolant already plumbed to the kitchen area).
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:00 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offgr1d View Post
I wouldn't do engine heat exchanger.. Reason is adding too much heat / regulation as stated above and one more place for a leak / engine coolant issue... The on demand is already so efficient, it is totally unnecessary to add another form of hot water production. You will be happy with LP instant units.
I am curious about your point of use unit. Do you have photos of the setup/ventilation/etc.? I'm shopping Eccotemp L7-L10/Flojet bundles, as we speak.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:43 PM   #40
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My camp is currently broke down for the move...

But my Eccotemp L5 has passed every test I've thrown at it!
Dishwasher kicked on Eccotemp when it demanded water, my clothes washer was the same way.
I've had an outdoor shower stall made out of 3 metal 4' x 8' department store displays, with a 1"X1" bar across the top front for shower curtain. Worked absolutely flawlessly for 13 months now.... Sure, it was cold in the winter and I had to manipulate some water hoses after temps dropped below freezing, and that was simply making sure the water was drained out of the garden hose and disconnect both water lines (in and out) from heater... Used quick connect hose adapters. But, I could take a hot shower in ice cold weather, and I was 10' from cabin. And if I used a garden hose ball valve right before it went into heater... I could hit 192° aNed still have great pressure... 106° is a hot shower for me!

I will end up plumbing my whole bus with 1 PEX water line ...
1) shower
2) kitchen sink
3) dishwasher
4) clothes washer
5) residential toilet

And just manipulate the on/off switch if I want tap water or hot water. The heater will be in a centralized location.... Shoot! my bus is only 35' max.

Edit:

OH! and I used my water heater to heat my hot tub water so it wouldn't use quite so much electricity(inefficient 110v heater)

Used a buddy's 12v marine pump and spare battery to circulate water from tub to heater and back. It was pretty sweet to be sitting in a hot tub and having a handheld shower head
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