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Old 05-19-2016, 09:54 PM   #21
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If your bus has air brakes, you could add an auxiliary air tank, and plum that air tank to your water tank if you were gonna go that route you would want to use a small pressure tank from a standard home well system or some other tank that has an interior bladder. Unless you like drinking water that tastes like compressor condensation

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Old 05-19-2016, 09:59 PM   #22
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If you're into Rube Goldberg sorts of things...
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:57 PM   #23
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Actually I like gas station rubber hose on a hot day water.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:01 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Famousinternetjesus View Post
If your bus has air brakes, you could add an auxiliary air tank, and plum that air tank to your water tank if you were gonna go that route you would want to use a small pressure tank from a standard home well system or some other tank that has an interior bladder. Unless you like drinking water that tastes like compressor condensation
compressor condensation eats the rubber diaphragm quickly.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:12 AM   #25
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You can pressurize your tanks if you use kegs, but you'd want to use the co2/nitrous mix to pressurize them. It's kind of a bonus deal if you like beer too.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:50 AM   #26
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A foot pump plus a 12v pump seems entirely unnecessary to me. If you have a 12v pump then just use it. They don't use all that much electricity and there's no inherent water savings from using an electric pump vs a manual pump. It's all in how you use them. Don't leave the faucet open and running and you'll be golden. In addition, you can get a 12v pump for the same price as a foot pump, so there's not even an economical reason to choose a foot pump.



If you install a water pressure tank you'll be able to use the water for a while before the pump turns on to re-pressurize the system. Such a tank will also reduce water pulsing caused by the pump.
I installed one very similar to this:

2 Gal. Pressurized Well Tank


i went with accumulator as well, to save the pump. http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-30573-0...ilpage_o04_s00
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Old 05-21-2016, 09:40 AM   #27
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You can pressurize your tanks if you use kegs, but you'd want to use the co2/nitrous mix to pressurize them. It's kind of a bonus deal if you like beer too.
Or even a manual hand cranked air pump would be even better to pressurize while we are making the point more complex for this person!

You asked what we thought about your idea. You got mixed opinions. Ultimately, it's your call.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:19 PM   #28
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These are good. Maybe you just want a resivoir above sink height andus gravity flow.


Amazon.com: guzzler hand pump
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:47 PM   #29
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Or even a manual hand cranked air pump would be even better to pressurize while we are making the point more complex for this person!

You asked what we thought about your idea. You got mixed opinions. Ultimately, it's your call.
Don't think the air compressor idea is worth a dang but in the water world they are called expansion tanks and yes they do provide extra volume to a piping system to keep a pump from cycling off and on and on the cold water side of a hot water heater because dumping cold water into a hot water heater/vessel creates expansion and contraction into the system that the vessel was not designed for (not pushed as much in residential) but can and will help.
A 3-gallon bladder tank after the pump gives you an extra 2-gallons of pressurized water before the pump has to work and if your pump has a down line pressure switch to activate it then it for best production needs to be after the expansion tank.
The air pressure in the tank from the factory is normally set to 15-psi of air on the outside of the bladder in the tank and will need to be adjusted to your water pressure whether pumped or street/campground. I chose a happy medium with mine. My pump does 55 psi and normal street pressure is 50-60 not for some camp grounds so my pump is ready no matter the connection.
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:40 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
Or even a manual hand cranked air pump would be even better to pressurize while we are making the point more complex for this person!

You asked what we thought about your idea. You got mixed opinions. Ultimately, it's your call.
Dude, that's the point of being here on this forum. To get 20 different ways to do what you want to do.
Was it the beer idea that disgusted you? I like kegs. They're easy to move around for whatever you need and it's easy to charge them. The co2 mix bottle lasts a couple years and is cheap to refill. Considering how most skoolie owners drop $1k on many different projects, this is one of the cheap answers costing several hundred for a basic system depending on what you want or need. And besides, the other day we found that the co2 mix has antimicrobial properties thanks to other skoolie members.
I don't know why anyone would want to put the flavor of compressed air into their water.
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Old 05-21-2016, 03:41 PM   #31
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I used one of these, although my choice sounds less sanitary.

http://www.amazon.com/Tengchang-2724...zler+hand+pump
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:21 PM   #32
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I've got a 12v water pump right now, but I eventually plan to move to a hydro-pneumatic in future, using a pair of matched tanks on each side of the bus, and a 55 psi air-reducer coming off a main air-storage tank.

It's going to be a bit more of an intensive task since my current bus has hydraulic brakes, so I'm going to have to add an engine-driven air-compressor. At this point, I'm considering rebooting my project starting with a larger and more powerful bus than my tired, old mini-bird.

I just don't feel like the chassis I have is a very good match to someone trying to full-time out of the back.
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Old 05-23-2016, 01:08 PM   #33
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What exactly is your plan? I'm very interested in having compressed air drive my
Water because I already have air brakes, I was considering having two tanks, one water and one an air pressure tank, plumb the two together with an inline filter of some kind, and thus have strong, silent water pressure
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:45 AM   #34
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Kinda off topic but I had an old tow behind camper with a factory compressed air water system. I think it's just a big tank without a bladder. It had a fancy fill neck outside with a pressure gage and a schrader valve like a tire would have. So, like most things, it's been done before. We never used it so I can't comment on taste.

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Old 05-24-2016, 02:25 PM   #35
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Regarding the hand pump and hot water: why would one do that? Put the hand pump on the inlet side of the heater rather than the outlet; push water through the heater rather than pull water out. For that matter, a single hand pump could push water through both the hot and cold circuits simply by installing it upstream of the place where cold water supply branches off to the heater.

For reducing water consumption by making it inherently more complex or slow to extract the water: interrupt the electrical supply to the conventional pump. Use a momentary switch instead of a latching switch. Maybe a foot-operated momentary! Perhaps a little electrical circuit that limits the duty cycle of the pump.... for all the electrical hobby-geeks we have here, it's about time somebody did something with a 555 timer.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:03 PM   #36
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Hey, haven't you met any of us guys that nothing electrical works right when we're around? I can't even keep a darn watch running. Like so many times on various threads where someone bumps a little wire loose.
I like a lot of hand operated items whenever possible. I'm not sure if that's minimalist or rustic or what.
And yes the cold water pump pushes cold water through the water heater in all normal situations. I don't think I'm trying that one with a hand pump.
Has anybody seen those shower valves that were commonly used in Germany? They have real water problems over there. You had to pull the rope to get water through the shower. Can't find that valve here in the US.
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
Hey, haven't you met any of us guys that nothing electrical works right when we're around? I can't even keep a darn watch running. Like so many times on various threads where someone bumps a little wire loose.
I like a lot of hand operated items whenever possible. I'm not sure if that's minimalist or rustic or what.
And yes the cold water pump pushes cold water through the water heater in all normal situations. I don't think I'm trying that one with a hand pump.
Has anybody seen those shower valves that were commonly used in Germany? They have real water problems over there. You had to pull the rope to get water through the shower. Can't find that valve here in the US.
Good afternoon. I haven't seen the valve your talking about but in a minimalistic and rustic mind to that type of valve.
Put a standard ball valve in the line, some already have one hole from the factory that could be used, if not drill two holes in the valve handle.
One for a spring attached back to something solid or maybe even a screen door pneumatic type closure and one for the handle or rope. Either way it will close when you need both hands for something one immediately and one slowly?
Sorry now I am thinking about a show with a song my kids used to watch.
Head,shoulders,knees and toes? On the other side of minimalistic/rustic.
I have been on NAVY ships but CAPTAIN SQUID might have an idea from some of the push button showers or sinks from Down Below?
You can find a lot of push button water supply fixtures or electronic type (sensor operated) fixtures from normal suppliers but you have to search on the commercial type side. SLOAN,AMERICAN STANDARD,MOEN, T&S BRASS. Not reccomended in any order or design because each electronic one has there own ups and downs for wiring, trouble shooting? The push button has minimal problems but it depends on the quality of water being provided to it. In a brand new piping install if it messes up it is usually a piece of pipe shaving or a low point in the system that caught all of the shaving granual's because your plumber didn't hold and clean the pipe right while cutting and cleaning there cut.
Old piping cut in? It is usually the calcium in the water being provided.
I have installed and worked with both styles with most commercial brands and push button showers are there but haven't seen a sensor operated shower one yet?
It cost maitenance money dedicated but filter filter filter because you think you knowthe water quality where your at but dont know it where your going,where you will end up at. That effects how long your piping system, pumps? Sediment in your tanks? Including your sewer tanks and fixtures even though you might not eat dirt?(I do? Seems like its part of my job) I grew up on and love well water around sulpher springs tx but all well water is not the same?
Municipal water needs the chlorine filtered? Well water moves sediments and needs to be filtered unless your around the area of east texas to HOT SPRINGS Arkansas?
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:45 PM   #38
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There is always natural stuff in the ground sources of water, and yes I think it's good to get the chlorine and fluoride out of city water if possible.

Our water tanks settle out most of the organic stuff, but we clench our teeth while we're drinking water just to make sure we strain out the larger particles.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:19 AM   #39
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What

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
As far as the hot water part of your question?
If you checked the working temperature ratings the manufacturer and it is better than 140(160-180 better) then it will work with hot water but depending on the length of the piping from the heater to the pump and fixture you could spend more time pumping and water used waiting for it to warm up?
If conservation is the issue then buy the low flow faucet,water saver screen adapters for your existing faucet or just put your foot down? NO not on the pump trying to get hot water?
Without use or a recirculating pump even in/with the biggest and the best hot water heaters made the piping directly connected,anything downstream and inside some? Depending on placement of the top heating element/source the top 1/3 could lose temp. Even though heat rises without movement the temperature stays steady around the element but doesn't stratify in the tank or to the top of the tank. That is why in a normal house you have to run your shower,vanity,kitchen sink or whatever for a few minutes before you get tempered/hot water there.
I would hate to have to foot pump from my water heater to my kitchen sink? I would give up the second it's there then tell my kids that there washing dishes.
Maybe it's just late but I'm trying to understand this response and it's not clicking. Are you saying that the effort to pump enough hot water to use would exceed the usefulness of having it?
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:24 AM   #40
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Same

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I've got a 12v water pump right now, but I eventually plan to move to a hydro-pneumatic in future, using a pair of matched tanks on each side of the bus, and a 55 psi air-reducer coming off a main air-storage tank.

It's going to be a bit more of an intensive task since my current bus has hydraulic brakes, so I'm going to have to add an engine-driven air-compressor. At this point, I'm considering rebooting my project starting with a larger and more powerful bus than my tired, old mini-bird.

I just don't feel like the chassis I have is a very good match to someone trying to full-time out of the back.

I think I have the same bus as you, though I thought mine was 22' and is a 6.5L Turbo. Been really fed up with it, too. Maybe I'm just being impatient. This is 2 years after your comment, but still.
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