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07-30-2018, 06:43 PM
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#1
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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What happens if I reroute my exhaust?
Our tailpipe shoots exhaust straight at our towed vehicle leaving a sooty mess, and so I was curious about rerouting it. Seems like it would be a fairly simple job for a muffler shop, and require about 10 feet of 4" pipe and a few bends. What I was thinking is.....exhaust pipe exits the rear corner of the bus then goes straight up along the body to the roof line, where it then bends a bit so as not to allow rain to enter.
Anyone think this will cause issues with engine performance, or see any other potential reason not to have this done?
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07-30-2018, 06:48 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
Our tailpipe shoots exhaust straight at our towed vehicle leaving a sooty mess, and so I was curious about rerouting it. Seems like it would be a fairly simple job for a muffler shop, and require about 10 feet of 4" pipe and a few bends. What I was thinking is.....exhaust pipe exits the rear corner of the bus then goes straight up along the body to the roof line, where it then bends a bit so as not to allow rain to enter.
Anyone think this will cause issues with engine performance, or see any other potential reason not to have this done?
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Send pics once it's done. Stacks on a bus!!!
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07-30-2018, 06:49 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Bring them out and up the sides behind the drivers seat like a big rig.
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07-30-2018, 06:53 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
Our tailpipe shoots exhaust straight at our towed vehicle leaving a sooty mess, and so I was curious about rerouting it. Seems like it would be a fairly simple job for a muffler shop, and require about 10 feet of 4" pipe and a few bends. What I was thinking is.....exhaust pipe exits the rear corner of the bus then goes straight up along the body to the roof line, where it then bends a bit so as not to allow rain to enter.
Anyone think this will cause issues with engine performance, or see any other potential reason not to have this done?
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As long as you drill a drain hole in the bottom elbow (1/4") you can run a rain hat flap. Of course you might get a Detroit rattle at idle. Flap flapping.[emoji16]
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07-30-2018, 07:03 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57
As long as you drill a drain hole in the bottom elbow (1/4") you can run a rain hat flap. Of course you might get a Detroit rattle at idle. Flap flapping.[emoji16]
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Oh yeah stop by the dress up Shoppe and get the chrome grating for that stack![emoji651]
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07-30-2018, 07:06 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57
As long as you drill a drain hole in the bottom elbow (1/4") you can run a rain hat flap.
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That was a thought, too. I kinda like that flap.
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07-30-2018, 08:16 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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The chrome grating is a must. Not only will it look cool, it will keep you from being sued if someone happens to grab the stack when it is hot. Jack
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07-30-2018, 08:26 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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I took the easy method and turned the cutoff pipe out just in front of the left rear tires. No signs of soot and helps melt the ice buildup around those wheels. Also keeps my black tank warm so the valve doesn't give me trouble to dump it.
Next bus may get stacks.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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07-31-2018, 08:39 AM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
The chrome grating is a must. Not only will it look cool, it will keep you from being sued if someone happens to grab the stack when it is hot. Jack
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That's actually a pretty good point that I hadn't thought about
Does anyone see any issues with creating some sort of weird backpressure or somehow screwing up the flow? It seemed copacetic to me, but then I'm a woodworker not a gearhead.
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07-31-2018, 08:52 AM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port angeles, Wa
Posts: 318
Year: 90
Coachwork: bluebird conventional
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 72
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I'm doing what you intend but going with 5 in pipe before the bend up to lessen back pressure. Remember you are adding 10-12 feet of exhaust to an already 30 ft of bus.
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07-31-2018, 08:55 AM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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I did a similar thing, though my reasons were so I would avoid the all too familiar pancaked exhaust under the rear bumper. I turned the exhaust 90 degrees so it exits in front of the passenger side drive wheels.
Something to note is that you don't want the exhaust exiting below a window you like to keep open while driving. You'll certainly smell it while idling in traffic.
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07-31-2018, 08:57 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird90
I'm doing what you intend but going with 5 in pipe before the bend up to lessen back pressure. Remember you are adding 10-12 feet of exhaust to an already 30 ft of bus.
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Good to know it's a possibility! I was just looking some sweet 5" truck exhaust parts online. I'd love to see any pics when you get rolling on it!
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07-31-2018, 09:19 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird90
I'm doing what you intend but going with 5 in pipe before the bend up to lessen back pressure. Remember you are adding 10-12 feet of exhaust to an already 30 ft of bus.
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I want to go with 5" pipe and a high flow muffler.
But I'm going straight back with a chrome downturn end.
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08-11-2018, 03:40 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 548
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I don't remember where I saw it but there is a bus someone ran the stacks straight up behind the drivers window. Looked cool and worked really well. Also opens up room under the bus for storage or tanks where the exhaust pipe would normally be.
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08-11-2018, 11:15 PM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: south missouri
Posts: 41
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Gillig bros. of hayward ca.
Engine: C180 supercharged cummins
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exhaust
i ran my exhaust right behind the frt fender..
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08-12-2018, 02:11 AM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,769
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
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whiskey runner
That is awesome job there. I would love the time to crawl around that rig to check it out one end to the other..... looks really slick, just the whole vibe that thing gives off...... That is one of those skoolies that attracts all kinds of attention. No flying under the radar with that one.
william
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08-12-2018, 03:22 AM
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#17
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: south missouri
Posts: 41
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Gillig bros. of hayward ca.
Engine: C180 supercharged cummins
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turn my bus into a rv
thanks magna .... my build album is on photobucket but it will not let me post it on here...
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08-12-2018, 04:04 AM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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Almost all of our TC2000 FE school buses came with side exhausts that exited just in front of the driver's side left rear wheels.
I see no reason why you would want to spend the extra $$ to run your exhaust pipe up the back of the bus. Over the years we discovered the most expensive piece of the exhaust system was the piece that went up and over the axle and it was always the piece that rusted out first.
We had to do run the exhaust up on the Gillig at church since it is a rear engine bus. But with a front engine bus a side exhaust is much preferred.
Make sure it exits out the driver's side. Having it go out the curb side means you will stink up your campsite with exhaust instead of the neighbor's campsite.
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08-13-2018, 10:55 AM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
Our tailpipe shoots exhaust straight at our towed vehicle leaving a sooty mess, and so I was curious about rerouting it. Seems like it would be a fairly simple job for a muffler shop, and require about 10 feet of 4" pipe and a few bends. What I was thinking is.....exhaust pipe exits the rear corner of the bus then goes straight up along the body to the roof line, where it then bends a bit so as not to allow rain to enter.
Anyone think this will cause issues with engine performance, or see any other potential reason not to have this done?
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Cut the top off a stack, shortened the exhaust, welded on at 40* angle to keep the soot off the ATV's [one's white] seems to be working....3 trips up north and back. 600 kmh round trip.
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08-13-2018, 05:31 PM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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Here is our church bus with rerouted exhaust.
It is a rear engine so there were not a lot of alternatives.
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