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Old 11-23-2017, 06:22 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 269
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
What kind of appliances do you have?

Was wondering what people decided on as far as refrigerators; dorm room size or full size.. microwave or convection oven.. propane or electric/induction stove top etc.

I wanna get a induction stove top but am concerned about power usage. Any one go this route with a solar setup? Also interested in AC/heat setups
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Old 11-23-2017, 07:45 AM   #2
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
I have my kitchen, have not installed yet. I have 10K diesel genny, so I went large.


discussion


I got the induction hob- 220V. Dying to use it, never had one before. I will add a single propane burner just for fuel flexibility.
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Old 11-23-2017, 08:35 AM   #3
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,008
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
I have a small two door Westinghouse refrigerator 120VAC, I guess you would call it apartment size. My microwave is also Westinghouse combination microwave/convection. I have two Burton 6200 cook tops.
I also have two Klimair 12,000 Btu mini split AC units.
My heat is in floor hydronic using an Espar boiler.

All of the 120VAC units run on my Xantrex 3000 sine inverter. The microwave is kind of a power hog draws 15A when running. The refrigerator is pretty efficient. The AC units are very efficient, the heat is complicated.
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:14 AM   #4
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Anaconda,MT
Posts: 210
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466 Turbo
Rated Cap: 90
For the fridge I went with the Magic Chef 9.9 cu. ft. The water heater is the Excel low start up tankless water heater. Microwave is 700W (1000W) draw. For the oven and cook top it's the Camp Chief. Washer is Magic Chef 1.6 cu. ft. and then also the matching dryer.

Heat is a blue flame 30K BTU wall unit and cooling is four 5K BTU window units.
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:49 AM   #5
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Oberlin, Kansas
Posts: 1,380
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
We have a full size Maytag W/D, full size Frigidaire, an alcohol fired two burner stove, NO microwave - cancer causing agent, three small gensets - easy and cheap to replace, power beds to lift torso and feet - hey, we're getting older, two full size computers with printers, two A/C units - one 5K BTU and one 15K BTU, two 55 gallon fresh water tanks, one 55 gallon grey water tank, a dry toilet, full size shower, and an enclosed car carrier to second as my portable workshop on the road.

The A/C units I have - one is for a window, the other 15K BTU is a permanent installation in the lower cargo bay for driving down the road. I have a 6K watt inverter to power that A/C unit. I just need a 250 or 300 amp alternator to provide the power to the inverter. More on that later......

Hope this helps......

M
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Old 11-23-2017, 07:31 PM   #6
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 814
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
I plan on using a 7 cu.ft. chest freezer as a fridge (a fridger) with an external digital thermostat. Its power consumption will be much less than even the most efficient upright fridge, and all the cold air won't fall out every time you open the door! Australians off the grid have embraced the concept of fridgers*, and my bus has plenty of solar power (just like many Australian bus conversions), so it should work well. At about $250 in total it's also MUCH cheaper than fancy 12VDC high-efficiency fridges. I'll run it from its own dedicated inverter, the smallest one that will start it, to avoid needing the big Magnum inverter on standby all the time.

Another incidental benefit of having a chest fridger is that I can have a single countertop (hinged to its lid) above it and the front-loading washer/dryer next to it, greatly extending the usable workspace in the kitchen area. Also, not having a tall upright fridge will make the kitchen appear less cluttered and more spacious.

With about 2kW of solar I really shouldn't be too concerned about power consumption, but why use more power than necessary? I want to be OK even if the sun doesn't shine for three days, so everything I can do to save power is worthwhile.

John

* http://www.mtbest.net/chest_fridge.html
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Old 11-23-2017, 08:39 PM   #7
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
I plan on using a 7 cu.ft. chest freezer as a fridge (a fridger) with an external digital thermostat. Its power consumption will be much less than even the most efficient upright fridge, and all the cold air won't fall out every time you open the door! Australians off the grid have embraced the concept of fridgers*, and my bus has plenty of solar power (just like many Australian bus conversions), so it should work well. At about $250 in total it's also MUCH cheaper than fancy 12VDC high-efficiency fridges. I'll run it from its own dedicated inverter, the smallest one that will start it, to avoid needing the big Magnum inverter on standby all the time.

Another incidental benefit of having a chest fridger is that I can have a single countertop (hinged to its lid) above it and the front-loading washer/dryer next to it, greatly extending the usable workspace in the kitchen area. Also, not having a tall upright fridge will make the kitchen appear less cluttered and more spacious.

With about 2kW of solar I really shouldn't be too concerned about power consumption, but why use more power than necessary? I want to be OK even if the sun doesn't shine for three days, so everything I can do to save power is worthwhile.

John

* Chest fridge
So, a decent plan, but there is a caveat.

The controllers are good (I have one), but they are really only good for one temperature, and that either has to be fridge or freezer. You can't do both easily. You will either freeze your milk or not get your frozen food cold enough to keep.

When they test appliances for Energy Star ratings, they find very little difference in overall power consumption between a vertical and horizontal fridge. I know this is counter-intuitive, right?

However, the thermal mass in a fridge is not held in the small amount of cold air that escapes, but in the chilled contents and the cabinet. Cooling down that small amount of air takes very little energy.

Energy saving is not a reason to do this. If you want "efficient", you would be better served by a modern standard domestic fridge/freezer, which also takes less floor space. This is pretty much what all RV makers are fitting these days. The 12/120V RV fridges are power hogs, and the efficient marine versions cost an arm and a leg.

That said, not everyone wants the same thing, and using a chest freezer, and enjoying the counter space is a good reason to use one.

But it's not about power saving.
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Old 12-25-2017, 05:33 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 269
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
Been busy checkin out your builds. Very inspiring! Hope to here from more people...
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Old 12-25-2017, 09:24 AM   #9
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 1,408
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford e350 2 mercedes
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
John is still in the win here because freezers have much more insulation that will save energy. Although you are right that not much energy is used to cool the fresh air it still amounts to something. A last good reason to keep the air inside is that the new air can have more moisture in it. To condense and freeze the moisture will take considerable energy and that in turn will reduce the efficiency of your cold plate.

Very fancy fridge / freezers boxes can be had from the restore at apex,nc do a search for envirocooler. $100 +shipp


merry Christmas

later J
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:17 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 814
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
John is still in the win here because freezers have much more insulation that will save energy. Although you are right that not much energy is used to cool the fresh air it still amounts to something. A last good reason to keep the air inside is that the new air can have more moisture in it. To condense and freeze the moisture will take considerable energy and that in turn will reduce the efficiency of your cold plate.

Very fancy fridge / freezers boxes can be had from the restore at apex,nc do a search for envirocooler. $100 +shipp


merry Christmas

later J
A typical upright fridge runs about 15 minutes per hour (or maybe more in hot weather if you keep opening the door frequently). A converted chest freezer used as a fridge runs about 2 to 3 minutes per hour. Twigg, how can this not be a saving?

John
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