Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-08-2015, 06:18 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 31
Year: 1997
Chassis: International 3800 AmTran (wish it was a TransAm)
Engine: DT466E
What might be holding the interior metal panels in?

Sorry if this has been answered - I searched the forums and could only find debates about whether or not to remove these panels in the first place.

Anyways, at the moment I am trying to remove the silver metal interior panels from my 1997 39' International Type C bus. I have either unscrewed or grinded off the stripped screws all visible hardware from the panels. I can lift up and easily fit my hand on the left, bottom, and right of these panels. The problem is, something is holding them in at the top.

See picture (not my bus - just some random picture I found on the internet):



  • Red arrows - this is where the panels are stuck at. I have tried hitting one from the top with a hammer and it doesn't budge. I can't see any rivets/other hardware that might be holding them in. The top inch and a half or so is hidden under this little lip that is underneath each window.
  • Blue Arrows: example of the lip that is holding them in. They are pointing to the top here because in this random picture I found it looks like the panels & that lip had been removed already.


What is left under this lip that is holding the panels in? Are they glued? Do I just have to remove that lip with the panel altogether or do I cut the top of the panels? I plan on scrapping these panels so I am not worried about damaging them. Any help would be appreciated.

AlbatrossCafe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 06:31 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Is your bus fully International, or is it an International chassis with a Thomas body?
Mine is a 1997 Thomas and I ended up cutting at that point since I had no desire to reuse the panels. I can't remember if they were pinched under the window sill, or bent around the angle iron below the sill. Either way, they weren't coming out without first dismantling the window frames.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 06:33 PM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Ah, I just saw in your profile that you have an AmTram. It's possible that they are built similar to Thomases in that respect, but I can't say for sure.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 06:34 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 31
Year: 1997
Chassis: International 3800 AmTran (wish it was a TransAm)
Engine: DT466E
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Is your bus fully International, or is it an International chassis with a Thomas body?
Mine is a 1997 Thomas and I ended up cutting at that point since I had no desire to reuse the panels. I can't remember if they were pinched under the window sill, or bent around the angle iron below the sill. Either way, they weren't coming out without first dismantling the window frames.
I should have specified - mine is 1997 International 3800 with AmTran body. Good to know though. I don't want to dismantle the windows quite this early.
AlbatrossCafe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 07:22 PM   #5
Moderator
 
crazycal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
If it is like my 1997 AmTran Genesis, they are help on by a spot weld. The panels that I did remove, I used a thick putty knife and pounded through the welds from the top in between the inner and outer panels.
__________________
I'm hungry!

You Gotta Let Me Fly
crazycal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 07:51 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
My AmTran was the same, use your angle grinder and cut them flush with the bottom of the window frame. Be careful not to cut too deep into the supports. Basically start at the end of a sheet and peel it away as your cutting that way you can tell when you've cut through the sheet.
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
The Nebuchadnezzar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 07:54 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
And if you're going to use an angle grinder inside the bus protect those windows!
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 09:17 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Good advice Jazty. I doubt most folks realize those hot, metal "sparks" will pit glass instantly. And no...they won't buff out.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 09:19 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
Alb I have just run into the same problem aswell and posted about it on my build.

I think that I am going to end up testing using an angle grinder and seeing if that works but if not just going to get a pair of air shears and then end up grinding them smooth.

Still looking for a better way but have yet to figure out one.
Josiahdr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 11:01 PM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
The details of four methods of removal can be found in this thread, in the last few pages.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/re...s-11820-4.html

I don't feel like typing it twice.

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2015, 11:21 PM   #11
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 308
Also not just the sparks from the grinder, but rather just a misplaced grinder itself will do wonders for those windows too.
CaptainInsaneo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 12:20 AM   #12
Moderator
 
crazycal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
And safety glasses.
__________________
I'm hungry!

You Gotta Let Me Fly
crazycal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 12:33 AM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: WA
Posts: 31
Year: 1997
Chassis: International 3800 AmTran (wish it was a TransAm)
Engine: DT466E
My Solution

I did what many have recommended and used a 4" angle grinder with a "cutting blade". I had a full-face shield, gloves, long pants, and hearing protection. I wish I had used long sleeves because now I have flecks of metal stuck in the crack of my elbow and it is botherin me lol. Pictures below:

I protected the windows from sparks with cardboard from a mini-fridge box:


I then used the angle grinder at about a 20 degree angle (pointed upward) to cut along the lower lip of the window. The flat edge of the cutter blade was using the lip as somewhat of a guide to help me cut straight and as close to the lip as possible. It was easy to cut 90% of it because there was only insulation behind it so I didn't have to worry about depth. On the supports you had to be just a little bit more careful but I didn't accidentally cut into any of them at all. The sparks did burn a bit of the fiberglass insulation which made it pretty smoky.




On my first panel, I did have 1 issue with cutting into part of the lip. This was solved by using the grinder at an angle rather than trying to keep the blade perfectly perpendicular. On other panels, there were a couple parts where I left some of the panel showing. These will be easy to trim up later. You can see these errors below:



All in all, pretty easy job. I only finished about 1/2 tonight. I imagine all of it together will have taken me about 2 hours. Let me know if you have questions.
AlbatrossCafe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 02:08 AM   #14
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
And if you're going to use an angle grinder inside the bus protect those windows!
and your lungs!
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 02:15 AM   #15
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Good job.

I wear my leather welding jacket and apron when using a grinder.

The wrong long sleeves will catch fire. I have seen this more than once.

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2015, 06:30 AM   #16
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 252
Thank you Nat
jake_blue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2015, 11:47 AM   #17
Bus Crazy
 
Stu & Filo. T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
and your lungs!
I wore a respirator when I gutted mine & completely plugged both cartridges,Literally could not draw another breath before changing them out.Also wore safety glasses & still managed to get a piece of metal in my eye
Stu & Filo. T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2015, 11:58 AM   #18
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T View Post
I wore a respirator when I gutted mine & completely plugged both cartridges,Literally could not draw another breath before changing them out.Also wore safety glasses & still managed to get a piece of metal in my eye
Sounds about right.
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 08:38 AM   #19
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Hey I'm doing the same thing, do you have to remove the white panel below which has the lip? Or just leave that lip there and frame around?
Snurbalurb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 11:25 AM   #20
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
You will want to keep the chair rail. See Nat's post for more info: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ab...tml#post121750
Josiahdr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
build, interior, international, panels, removal


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.