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Old 05-15-2016, 05:50 PM   #11
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Hey Luckychucky, can you provide more information on this roofing material?



J


All I can tell you is I bought it at menards and they have several different lengths
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:33 PM   #12
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Everyone, thanks for your input so far! Since mentally I've been preparing myself to skin with sheet metal I don't think I feel like changing it up without seeing a more detailed review of the alternative, however it is nice to see all of these ideas, and that corrogated roofing on that blue bus looks really good.

After reading these posts it looks like I will not be doing 20 gauge. I will debate between 16 and 18 gauge. Jolly Roger your input was much appreciated, it definitely changes my plan a bit, though I'm not sure how I'm going to rivet the metal in on flat ground, that's something to brainstorm I suppose. Maybe I can get a really long extension cord.

Question: what do you mean by prep and work metal before putting it up? Also when you say work from both sides, would that be referring to rivetting the left and right side together? Also Robin: How did you see the metal being stretched out?
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:02 PM   #13
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It was when I was a kid, but I believe they just put several holes in each end so they could attach a bracket at each end so they could pull it tight. That sounds difficult. If it's straight and not wavy when you get it, shouldn't it attach straight as long as there's no rivets you're trying to cover over?

I agree some of the windows need to be covered. At the same time when I'm in the mountains I like being able to see 360* all around me. I'd like to make a window awning that could be lowered to cover the windows during inclement weather. Even with tinted windows it would be nice to have something to cover the windows at night. I don't really like to looks of curtains and they always have gaps. I might be in here washing something important at night.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:32 AM   #14
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Heating panels sounds reasonable in theory but is pretty much impossible in practice, unless you have an enormous inductive heater setup hanging from a gantry crane. Steel has to be pretty hot to get the expansion that makes a difference, and even then you need to keep it hot while driving fasteners in.

Gravity is your friend. Hang sheets from the top center via one or two clecos, then spread left right and down. The bows and buckles will smooth away, like making the duvet cover on a bed.

20 gauge would probably be fine, but 18 or 16 won't hurt, it'll just get really heavy if you're manually hanging 4'x10' sheets.

Driving solid rivets needs a buddy to hold the bucking bar. Try to get some experience or find someone who had some. Here in the pacific northwet, Boeing has trained a grilion people on how rivets work, so you can throw a rock and hit someone experienced.

1/4" shank solid rivets are probably too big. What's in the bus right now? Follow the spacing and sizes of the fasteners in the vehicle body. The rivets on the rub rail might be bigger. Also, when you're slipping panels together think about how roofing shingles go together.

Invest in some electric shears, your life will be easier. If you can somehow acquire a 48' slip roll shear that would make your life considerably easier. If not, a drywall square, sharpie pen, and patience will suffice.

Use some cold spray galvinizing coating between your layers. Anything thicker than 1/16" acrylic foam tape sandwiched between your layers will cause a lot of dimpling at the rivets. A bead of sikaflex between panels will be great at weatherproofing the seams.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:15 PM   #15
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Heating panels sounds reasonable in theory but is pretty much impossible in practice, unless you have an enormous inductive heater setup hanging from a gantry crane. Steel has to be pretty hot to get the expansion that makes a difference, and even then you need to keep it hot while driving fasteners in.

Gravity is your friend. Hang sheets from the top center via one or two clecos, then spread left right and down. The bows and buckles will smooth away, like making the duvet cover on a bed.

20 gauge would probably be fine, but 18 or 16 won't hurt, it'll just get really heavy if you're manually hanging 4'x10' sheets.

Driving solid rivets needs a buddy to hold the bucking bar. Try to get some experience or find someone who had some. Here in the pacific northwet, Boeing has trained a grilion people on how rivets work, so you can throw a rock and hit someone experienced.

1/4" shank solid rivets are probably too big. What's in the bus right now? Follow the spacing and sizes of the fasteners in the vehicle body. The rivets on the rub rail might be bigger. Also, when you're slipping panels together think about how roofing shingles go together.

Invest in some electric shears, your life will be easier. If you can somehow acquire a 48' slip roll shear that would make your life considerably easier. If not, a drywall square, sharpie pen, and patience will suffice.

Use some cold spray galvinizing coating between your layers. Anything thicker than 1/16" acrylic foam tape sandwiched between your layers will cause a lot of dimpling at the rivets. A bead of sikaflex between panels will be great at weatherproofing the seams.
As fas as lifting & holding the metal in place this is what one member came up with & I copied & worked very well & was able to slide the sheet metal a couple inches under the roof metal so had nice overlap.

For lifting you just get 2 of the cheapest & smallest bottle jacks {walmart} & some angle iron I used 10ft pieces of sheetmetal so used 10' angle, if you want just for a little more stability weld the angle to the jack pad.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:01 PM   #16
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I used 18 gauge cold rolled to skin mine. I didn't experience any "oil canning" etc. Pretty sure I used 1/4" rivets, and I have no complaints after about 4 years of driving it around.

Here is a link to page 13 of my build where the skinning part starts.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/lu...d-7301-13.html
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:12 PM   #17
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You used 3/16" rivets, same as the ones I used.

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Originally Posted by TheRainbowBoxer View Post
I used 18 gauge cold rolled to skin mine. I didn't experience any "oil canning" etc. Pretty sure I used 1/4" rivets, and I have no complaints after about 4 years of driving it around.

Here is a link to page 13 of my build where the skinning part starts.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/lu...d-7301-13.html
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:15 PM   #18
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I stand corrected LOL!
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:31 PM   #19
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Thank you all for your input so far, I will be re-reading this thread a few times to keep myself on track.

Stu&Filo: I was just reading the Journey's skinning thread that used the same technique yesterday, I agree with that and will likely use a similar setup to keep the metal hoisted.

Aaronsb: Thank you for your input, your build is absolutely phenomenal and late in your thread you said something along the lines of "anyone can do it if you do it, this stuff is pretty simple" I really took those words to heart, I'm re-reading your build right now actually. I probably won't use solid rivets because most of my bus work happens after 9pm/ my only day off is Thursday/I like to make excuses. I will definitely get some cheap electric shears off amazon with hopes that it will break after extensive use and amazon will pick it up and refund my money/ or it will do the job and I will keep them. I will measure my existing rivets tonight and decide accordingly. PS: I'm Kent if you ever need a hand on a Thursday.

Rainbow boxer: thanks for the link, I'm having fun reading through your build so far, I just bookmarked your trailer wiring stuff, it's definitely been on my todo list.
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:01 PM   #20
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If you decide to use blind rivets for the bulk of your paneling, you should either seal the holes left from the mandrel shank, or purchase rivets that have sealed ends.

Please really consider using solid rivets.

Solid rivets are less prone to mechanical failure (less moving parts, hah) have higher shear strength and clamping force, and seal better than blind ones.

Thanks for the callout about doing this stuff. It is NOT terribly difficult, it just takes time and the patience to do it in a way that works.

If it is possible at all to get someone over for a few hours each night to install blind rivets, you can perform a major fraction of the work ahead of time so you're not consuming their time:

Mount sheet steel, use a tiny handful of blind rivets where absolutely necessary, otherwise purchase a ton of clecos. Pre-drill as much as you possibly can for panels. I'd say the bulk of time riveting solid is spent measuring and drilling the holes.

If they were nearly all pre-drilled and held together with a grillion clecos, you could knock out all the solid riveting in just a few daily sessions.

It would be fun to meet up and check out your project. I work in bellevue during the day, and kent isn't much further - I could head down on a thursday.

PM me if you're interested!

I forgot to add, you're totally fine cutting out the window holes afterwards in the sheet metal. If you use a plasma cutter, ensure you're not setting fire to everything on the other side of what you're cutting. I used an air powered sheet metal nibbler which really worked great. It took longer for me to mark my cut and remove the foam insulation out than the sheet metal cutting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TAOLIK View Post
Thank you all for your input so far, I will be re-reading this thread a few times to keep myself on track.

Stu&Filo: I was just reading the Journey's skinning thread that used the same technique yesterday, I agree with that and will likely use a similar setup to keep the metal hoisted.

Aaronsb: Thank you for your input, your build is absolutely phenomenal and late in your thread you said something along the lines of "anyone can do it if you do it, this stuff is pretty simple" I really took those words to heart, I'm re-reading your build right now actually. I probably won't use solid rivets because most of my bus work happens after 9pm/ my only day off is Thursday/I like to make excuses. I will definitely get some cheap electric shears off amazon with hopes that it will break after extensive use and amazon will pick it up and refund my money/ or it will do the job and I will keep them. I will measure my existing rivets tonight and decide accordingly. PS: I'm Kent if you ever need a hand on a Thursday.

Rainbow boxer: thanks for the link, I'm having fun reading through your build so far, I just bookmarked your trailer wiring stuff, it's definitely been on my todo list.
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