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Old 04-27-2016, 06:42 PM   #91
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Solar Gard makes a product called Ultragard UV that has the same 99% UV blocking as their other films, but is clear (89% VLT actually). It might be a great option for somebody who wants UV blocking in the side windows but doesn't want or can't have noticeable tint. It does help a little with solar heat rejection, too (16%).
I thought straight up window glass did a passable job of UV blocking? My photo-gray prescription glasses certainly seem to indicate that.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:02 PM   #92
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
Posts: 821
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Hey Cadillac...kwik kwestion. I have always been told that wet sleeve engines like the DT's should never run any water at all...only coolant, to prevent cavitation. Is this something you know or have heard?
Sorry if this is hijacking. The reply is a little late; I haven't been on for a couple of days. Prolly deserves its own thread. I don't have a bus yet, but I did read up on this when I first got twitterpated over the idea of replaceable cylinders. I still think they're a pretty good idea, but:

Yes, there is a lot of chemistry/additive stuff you have to keep track of. Dip-strip testing and the like. This is because:

1) Wet sleeves are cylinders constrained only at the top and bottom typically.
2) Diesel combustion is basically repeated explosions.
3) this causes the wt sleeve/cylinder to "ring"; change its cross section to oval in one axis then the other.
4) They are really stiff, so their resonant frequency is really high.
5) This causes cavitation - the water can't get out of the way and flow back in fast enough, so little vacuum bubbles are constantly forming and collapsing on the outer surface of the wet sleeve.
6) Unless managed, this behavior will chew up sleeves toot suite.
7) It's managed by Better Living Through Chemistry.

So yeah, filters and test strips and vials, oh my! OTOH when/if it goes south, you can rebuild it in-frame for $2K and a couple of weekends.

Hope this wasn't too long.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:28 PM   #93
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
I thought straight up window glass did a passable job of UV blocking? My photo-gray prescription glasses certainly seem to indicate that.
It seems that it depends on the glass. There's an article at autoblog which cites Some Dude From a Glass Company ("Pete Dishart, who leads product development at Pittsburgh Glass Works in Pennsylvania").
Quote:
He says windshields absorb 100 percent of UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and around 98 percent of UVA rays, which don't cause sunburn but can do long-term damage to the skin.
The article continues:
Quote:
But unless they're tinted for privacy, side windows usually absorb only 65 percent of UV rays. That gives them an SPF of around 16, Dishart says, the same as some of the lowest grades of sunscreen.
It also mentions some automakers have begun selecting glass for side positions with better UV blocking, but even so it's not so good as what windshields provide.

All I can say is it seems there's evidence supporting skin damage, including my own sunburnt left arm when I've driven westward in the afternoon for too long, to suggest there's enough UV getting through the side glass to be concerned about. I guess skin damage happens with less UV than is required to activate the coating on photo-gray glasses. Maybe the coating designers picked a high threshold because of concern over nuisance graying from exposure to unfiltered halogen or fluorescent light, or from UV light entering a building through a window.

Part of the thread was about solar heat gain, too. I can vouch for the Solar Gard film I used that I'm definitely more comfortable sitting in the car with sun shining on me through that film than I was prior to installing the film.
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