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Old 07-19-2015, 10:18 PM   #11
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I just painted my windows black because they are behind the shower unit. Any others that will be tinted will get something like Luminaire 80. It is a high heat reflector but almost clear. That is except for the other side bathroom windows. They will get frosted film and the front doors will get something decorative that wife chooses.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:32 PM   #12
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I'm going to 5% all the windows I haven't painted black. Bathroom windows will be 5% with a piece of shower curtain velcroed over the window.
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:49 PM   #13
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MILKMAN has it, take the blade out of your knife and use the whole edge to scrape your windows, that will remove any grinding, spray painting, fly/bug $#!t off the glass. Green painters tape will work to. In a litre of water, use half a teaspoon of dish soap. As your taking the backing off you can spray the tint [if the tint curls you can get it apart if it's wet] as well as the window. I pre-cut all mine, most of my glass was the same size. Did the back 6 windows with black vinyl from a sign shop [can't see through, no curtains needed] and the front 5 windows limo black.

Don't know what kind of paint sticks that well to glass, the ones I've seen done that way the paint eventually peeled off.
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:55 PM   #14
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Bah! Soapy water didn't help at all. Still getting a crappy finish! Oh well, I'm going to say $%$& it and keep on until job done. It's going to annoy the crap out of me but I don't honestly think I want to spend the time and materials (read $$$) learning to do it better. I'm going to try increasing the amount of soap. I suspect the problem could be temperature related.
uploadfromtaptalk1437418455331.jpg
I'll keep trying. Maybe by the time I get to the front, my technique will have improved.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:11 PM   #15
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It doesn't look bad in that pic. What is making you say it is a crappy finish? Do you have bubbles/wrinkles? A bad fit? Or it just looks cheap? Cheap tint will delaminate and peel pretty quickly, especially with summer heat you will get in SC. I would recommend a wipe down with some rubbing alcohol before application to make sure you remove all grease and oils from the window surfaces.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:28 PM   #16
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I have bubblkes and wrinkles that I can't seem to eliminate withg the plastic spatula.

And now I'm out of film. Seems one roll doesn't cover much and at 20 inches wide used on windows 24x12, there's a load of wastage.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:25 PM   #17
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not TOO much soap.... it can break down the adhesive, even though you're going to squeegee it out. I've noticed it wasn't as tacky when I used more soap.
it stuck fine, it just didn't feel right when I squeeggeed it out.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:38 PM   #18
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"small" bubbles tend to evaporate out... (While adhesive is still tacky)I've even used a needle to poke the hole and press the air out, but you mileage may vary. I only had a few.

as far as wrinkles, once tint wrinkles and/or creases.... it's there for life of film.

try wetting the window, and wetting the adhesive side of film laying on glass, then spray the non-adhesive side then squeegee outward soapy water also lubricates the blade, because the dryer you squeegee the non-adhesive side, you'll scratch the film.

Not so much downward, because you'll lose a lot of water/soap before you get the film laying right.

It usually looks like I turned a water wiggle loose with all the spray I use
I can usually "slide" the film in any direction I want, until I lay the squeegee to it. Then it starts locking down to glass.

I do all my vinyl decals, DOT numbers, and boat reg #'s the same way. Depending on the media they're printed/cut on.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
I have bubblkes and wrinkles that I can't seem to eliminate withg the plastic spatula.

And now I'm out of film. Seems one roll doesn't cover much and at 20 inches wide used on windows 24x12, there's a load of wastage.
not trying to nickel and dime this thing to death.... but you mention plastic spatula and I picture kitchen drawer tools.

these are the only ones I'll use. Most I've paid was around $2 at the hardware store. Body shop supply carries them too.
https://www.lowencertified.com/asset...FQ-IaQodogkC5A
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:48 PM   #20
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My kit came with a plastic spastula that seemsvtobeorkbeell enough
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