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Old 03-17-2019, 11:14 PM   #81
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
Don't worry about being critical. I do tend to overthink things. Glad to hear you haven't had any defrosting problems. I havn't driven mine in really cold temps yet so I didn't know what it would do.

Since you have the multiple heating zones in your system it makes sense for the hydronic 10 to run continuously and to control the heat with the circulation pumps. I think this is how a house with a central boiler and zone heat is set up. Since I will have only one zone. I would like to set it up so that the hydronic 10 could shut off and start up to maintain a preset temp.

I have the 7 day timer as well. I was reading in the hydronic 10 manual that the timer sends a 12v or 24v signal to the controller on the heater to turn it on. The burner will remain on until the signal is turned off. When the signal turns off then the burner shuts off and the heater goes into cool down. There is an option for a simple push pull switch to turn the heater on and off in the wiring diagram. I think this could be replaced by a thermostat. I agree that I wouldn't want to short cycle the heater by having it constantly turning on and off. I think this would lead to soot build up in the combustion chamber. I think that by wiring a timing relay between the thermostat and the controller the burner could be ran for a preset minimum amount of time.

My water heater and water tanks will be mounted inside the bus to avoid freezing.

Thanks

Ted

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Old 12-04-2022, 01:29 AM   #82
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 152
so 5 years since to give any update on this....sorry.

This thing called "life" gets in the way and changes priorities, desires, ideas, and such.

I started working on the bus again after all these years and I will be installing the heat finally this winter, plus many other things.

After re-reading the thread there is one question I need an answer to.

The engine coolant temp goes up to like 200F and which is more than what is recommended for pex I believe, so should I be using a diverter valve to mix cool water on the heating loop?

When driving in summer to avoid water flow by osmosis should I install a valve at the "out" of the heat exchanger to avoid flow?

in your diagram @somewhereinusa I do not see any diverter valves or maybe you control this by hand?
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Old 12-04-2022, 07:50 AM   #83
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,430
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
I have some shutoff valves but in 10 years the only time I've closed them was to change boilers. I've not had any problems.
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Old 12-04-2022, 10:50 AM   #84
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
I have some shutoff valves but in 10 years the only time I've closed them was to change boilers. I've not had any problems.
so in summer while driving you just have the pumps and thermostat off and that is it?

Thanks
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Old 12-04-2022, 01:37 PM   #85
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,430
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepepito View Post
so in summer while driving you just have the pumps and thermostat off and that is it?

Thanks
Yes, there's probably a bit of osmosis in the heat loop. I doesn't seem to make heat anywhere.
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Old 12-05-2022, 11:36 AM   #86
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: mid Mo.
Posts: 869
Year: 1976
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: F33695
Engine: 427 chevy converted to 466
Rated Cap: 84
There is such a thing called a mixing valve, it has an alcohol bulb that you put in your supply line and it can mix your cooled return with your hot supply to keep the temp under a specific number. I believe they are adjustable.
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