Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-08-2005, 01:45 PM   #11
trx
Skoolie
 
trx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 105
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy C-60
Engine: 8.2L Turbo Detroit Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
Send a message via ICQ to trx
Trust me, building a newer, taller roof is a considerable amount of work! I currently do not see myself doing it again anytime soon. I spent over $400 just in the new steel framing (that includes the back ramp) and that was before the jump in steel prices. You should also plan on getting a tan from all the welding you will do. I took the old roof off in 3 sections and I can tell you personally those roofs are not light. I can guarantee my new roof doesn't weigh nearly as much. It may not be as strong as the old roof but is still a tank compared to regular RV's. If you do decide to take the plunge you will end up with a more useable/workable interior and it will feel more like a real RV inside. You'll also have the opportunity add better insulation. From the windows up and the ceiling I used 2" R-10 polystyrene insulation. Having a good roof covering is important. In an attempt to control costs I decided to use the same corrugated steel they use on pole buildings. I ran them lengthways on the roof for aerodynamics but I have one seam in the middle (they were 16' sheets) and the water must run off the front or the back. Not perfect but it's working. It's screwed on with pole building screws that have the rubber washer. I also put sealant over each one as an extra precaution. I did look at a plywood/rubber roof solution but just that would have been easily over $500 (from what I found out). I think the best solution would be to have slightly curved roof supports and cover it with 1/4" plywood and one huge sheet of sheet metal. Not sure where you could find a sheet large enough but seams are your enemy. You'd also have to get it prepped and painted immediately. It all depends on how much you want to spend and how much work you want to put into it.

Chad
trx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2005, 12:37 AM   #12
Bus Crazy
 
Elliot Naess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,116
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
Single piece of sheet metal for entire roof

Hi!
New guy here, jumping right in trying to be helpful.

I work for a trucking company and we have our own shop. Once in a while, we put a new roof on a 53 foot semi-trailer. That roof is a single sheet of aluminum, about .050 thick. It is 102 inches wide and more than 53 feet long. Comes rolled up so it is not too difficult to handle. No, I don't dare guess what it costs, but I'm sure the Utility dealer can tell you.
I'm learning a ton from this forum; sure glad I found you guys!
Most cordially,
__________________
Elliot
Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...gate-1564.html
Elliot Naess is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2005, 06:48 AM   #13
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 245
Chad I was checking out your great pics on your site .
Can you tell me how you attached the exterior wall on the steel framing you constucted ?
Thanks.
Michael
__________________
Are you questioning my Aaa-thoritttyy ?
soused moose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2005, 04:28 PM   #14
trx
Skoolie
 
trx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 105
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy C-60
Engine: 8.2L Turbo Detroit Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
Send a message via ICQ to trx
Quote:
Originally Posted by soused moose
Chad I was checking out your great pics on your site . Can you tell me how you attached the exterior wall on the steel framing you constucted ?
Thanks.
Michael
I screwed 1/4" plywood to the posts then covered the plywood with 24" wide prepainted aluminium (sold as 24"x50' trim coil at home improvement stores). 2x2's were attached behind the seams in the plywood. I used contact adhesive to attach the aluminum to the plywood. This gave me a smooth exterior with no visible screws or rivets. 1 1/2 years and so far so good. Well we did have a bad hail storm last month that covered the drivers side in dents. It even took out the back window.
trx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2005, 08:47 AM   #15
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 245
Thanks for the info…. I’ve been wondering how folks went about attaching plywood to steel framing/bracing for some time now.
I typically through-bolt everything on our buses, which is pretty durable …but I don’t like having the nut sticking out on the inside. (Makes attaching interior walls a pain )

I’m cutting our bus body down to only approx. 8-1/2 feet so I’ll just go with wood framing instead of steel for the sides and new roof …but it is nice to find out how to attach wood to steel without having to use through-bolts all the time.
Thanks Chad
__________________
Are you questioning my Aaa-thoritttyy ?
soused moose is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Roof Raise - Building My Own Flat Roof iverSUN Conversion General Discussions 23 06-10-2015 02:15 PM
Roof Raise ~ Cutting Roof ABOVE Windows ?? chev49 Conversion General Discussions 3 12-04-2012 03:07 AM
Roof raise: TMI !! thommassey Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 15 12-09-2011 02:58 AM
Roof raise Rod Conversion General Discussions 1 03-08-2008 06:51 PM
Roof Raise ~ Cutting Roof ABOVE Windows ?? pixemoss Skoolie Conversion Projects 6 12-31-1969 07:00 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.