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Old 03-09-2019, 05:29 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
You may get lucky, but in general, it is a really bad idea to buy any bus from a major rust zone without a hands on, thorough inspection. And that means physically poking around underneath with a screwdriver on the sheetmetal and pick hammer on the frame. We have had a couple of folks here get burned really badly with units that turned out to be close to falling apart. Costs a LOT of time & money to correct (if it even can be) that should go elsewhere.


Just sayin'...
Yea. He sent me some pics yesterday that were not encouraging at all. Since he doesn't speak english very well he didn't really get me the pics I wanted (rims instead of tires) but I saw enough to make a pass on this.
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Old 03-09-2019, 05:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy View Post
If you can get the vin from him then you can use the Bluebird Portal site to find the build specs for it.

I use it all the time to save from asking sellers all the same questions that none seem smart enough to answer, headroom, transmission model, rear end ratio, etc.

https://vantage.blue-bird.com/Portal...?srcaud=Portal
Thanks. Found it.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:55 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mrufin View Post
Found this bus on FB.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ssenger_banner

My wife really wants a smaller bus like this but the owner says it has hydraulic brakes. From what I read on here everyone says air brakes are a must.

Is it supposed to be this stressful to buy a bus?

My budget is about $7500. Prefer to stay closer to $5k.

Reno budget about $7-10k.

Thanks,
Mike
I was a mechanic and diesel mechanic for over 20 years. I also drove professionally 18 wheelers. Worked on both air and electric over hydraulic brakes. I have also owned both types. Personally, I would be more concerned about overall condition of the vehicle and the deal/price. With any large vehicle, learning how to use your brakes, regardless what type they are is the important issue. Learning how to brake on down hill grades is whats important. From the pics, that bus looks really clean. Yes, air brakes are going to be simpler with less parts, and stronger stopping but hydraulic brakes work well too when maintained in good condition. A short school bus is not a fulled loaded 18 wheeler that must have air brakes. Use the fact that the bus has hydraulic brakes to negotiate a lower price if the bus is really clean. That's my take.
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:17 PM   #24
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Location: Greater Boston
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Wait a bit and see if it sells.
I like what I see in the pictures, it's just what we can't see.

The topside looks good, and if the mileage is really that low, the underside might not be that bad. Looks like 74 inch headroom from the VIN decoder.

If its still for a sale in a while, see if he'll drop the price another $500 or so - I'd risk a bit of a drive and a day on my weekend for $500 if everything else looks good.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:53 AM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Originally Posted by Mark_In_MA View Post
Wait a bit and see if it sells.
I like what I see in the pictures, it's just what we can't see.

The topside looks good, and if the mileage is really that low, the underside might not be that bad. Looks like 74 inch headroom from the VIN decoder.

If its still for a sale in a while, see if he'll drop the price another $500 or so - I'd risk a bit of a drive and a day on my weekend for $500 if everything else looks good.
Thanks for the advice and I agree with the pictures except for this one....

It's a little blurry but I don't think this is just surface rust on the under carriage, right? Should I ask for more pictures
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:18 AM   #26
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: St Petersburg, FL
Posts: 2,133
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f14/19...tml#post314485

This was just posted if you're not afraid to finish a roof raise skin.
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:02 PM   #27
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 20
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC1000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24V
I personally don't think the price is too high. May be because I paid to much for mine lulz.
Paid $3500 for my TC1000 and it had 250K miles, leaking radiator, and a couple of air leaks. Oh and a bunch of other small stuff.
Mine is a 2002 model and it has a completely flat floor. Guess up to 01 they had wheel wells protrude through the floor.
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