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Old 09-28-2016, 05:21 PM   #81
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Sounds like you have the same drive train I have in my 2000, 3.90 rear, 19.5 tires, 545 Allison, 190 hp te444 , mine does not have air ride, Governor is set at 64 and I have 2 ac units, one in front and one in back, have to try taping the air intake next time I drive it.

No tilt or air ride seat either

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Old 09-28-2016, 05:40 PM   #82
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Stuck in middle of road, anyone can help ? Plz I can message my number

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Old 09-28-2016, 06:23 PM   #83
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Would help to know where
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:35 PM   #84
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Here is the problem transition fluid liquid liquin bad.from front seal drydryot . I have decided continue driving.I am putting one quard of fluid every half an hours. Any idea or suggestion.

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Old 09-28-2016, 07:50 PM   #85
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Just keep it full or it will burn up
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:50 PM   #86
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:51 PM   #87
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Will put more in everytime

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Old 09-28-2016, 07:57 PM   #88
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Will do 2 quart every 30 min

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Old 09-28-2016, 08:32 PM   #89
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Does it make a difference. Slow vs fast speed. Stop and stop vs continue driving

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Old 09-29-2016, 07:28 AM   #90
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliChzPoopTart View Post
How did you determine the speed governer vs rpm governer? Also where is the hp stamp?

the horsepower stamp is on the left side valve cover.. it will likely be covered with grime.. I took a paper towel moist and carefully wiped the grime off the label.. there are 3 ratings on the tag, and one will have a dot above it stamped..

to tell the difference between the rpm and speed governor.. get on the open road and run the bus up to full speed.. when you hit the speed governor, your rpms will drop down and speed up to maintain a pretty exact vehicle speed, almost like a cruise control does... you'll really notie it when you go down hill how your rpms wil drop off a lot.. its really easy to do thos with an AT545 since there's no lock up.

I surmise after looking over the bus longer that it was used for elementary school thus the little tires. it makes the door-step lower for little tykes to get on and off.. also makes sense as to the fact I have built in child-safety seats.. and why the interior is in such nice shape other than the driver seat (little kids arent brats and cut seats on busses like junior high).. its interesting that its 6 window and set up as 5 rows inside... pretty decent legroom on the seats.. in effect its interior is almost ready to run for what I want this bus for..

I do believe my T444E suffers from the #8 injector "Cackle".. at first youd think it has an intermittent rod knock, but only occurs at idle, and not all the time... 'tap...tap-tap-tap.........tap..' and is up high.. you hear it under the bus but when you get under the hood and listen up top its much louder .. and doesnt rap under power... supposedly its a nuisance only and is simply the #8 injector being slightly fuel starved along the rail because the #6 fires right before it.. so that injector "bottoms out" its plunger.. a "Long-Lead" injector was developed to fix this issue... I only post this because others reading this may have the same sound and wonder what it is..

to me the whole 7.3 sounds wierd anyway compared to the mechanical diesels im used to... all of my diesel experience has been with I-4 or I6 engines.. fiorst diesel V-8 so it hasnt yet registered in my brain as to how ot should sound.. but I just drove it 1050 miles, and i didnt appear to be fogging mosquitos and my oil level is still on full....

my dashboard (like most IHC') is flaky.. my gauges will freeze.. then I reach behind and press on the connector slightly and they come back to life... so I need to take the cluster out and clean up all those contacts on that crappy MyLar flexible connector.. its all good since several lights are out.. I can take it apart and re-lamp the whole thing. and figure out why my trans temp and AMP-meter are no good... perhaps the cluster was changed and those 2 gauges were in it and never hooked up... I had never heard of a trans temp gauge on a 545... but the bus drives totally like its a 545.. I havent crawled under yet to read the tag off of it.. its a tighter 545 than the one in the DEV... or I should stay the stall speed on the converter is a bit tighter.. or could be it just feels that way because this bus is considerably lighter than the DEV...

it drives quite well for a school bus... at times feels almost like driving an E-350 van...

time will tell but i think I got a pretty decent bus!..

Fan clutch will likely fix its temerature issue.. last night when it cooled down and I was along the florida coast with some light showers, the temp was solidly at about 180-185 so the rest of the cooling system is doing its job.. in my past when a cooling system was clogged internally.. it would want ot run warm in most all conditions... this one only at high speed on a hot day and I never hear the fan... same symptoms as DEV.. time to order a fan clutch... its an easy fix... I think I can fix it like I did DEV without tearing apart the whole front of the bus..


-Christopher
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:56 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oricha1984 View Post
Does it make a difference. Slow vs fast speed. Stop and stop vs continue driving

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Yeooow!! where are you at? be sure you have a couple fire extuinigishers with you... transmission fluid can and will burn if it gets into the right conditions... not likely, but can.. so be safe!!!

-Christopher
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:33 AM   #92
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when my bus gets to 56/2200rpm it "lugs" and you can feel the guts drop out of it.

Glad you made it.
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:56 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
Yeooow!! where are you at? be sure you have a couple fire extuinigishers with you... transmission fluid can and will burn if it gets into the right conditions... not likely, but can.. so be safe!!!

-Christopher
Hey Christopher,

The seal went off in NC. I was 500 miles away from home.
It leaked bad. I started with 1 quart every 20,30,40 mins. But the I realized it would dump a lot of trans fluid when ever I stopped. Therefore, some was staying in there while I was driving. Soooo
I increased the time to 1 quart every hour.
I drove all night.
I MADE IT HOME to central Florida.

500 miles with leaking bad trans fluid.
I think that buss has BIG FUKING BALLZ !!!!

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Old 09-29-2016, 10:44 AM   #94
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Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliChzPoopTart View Post
when my bus gets to 56/2200rpm it "lugs" and you can feel the guts drop out of it.

Glad you made it.

does your tach drop when you hit 56? watch it close... run it up to full speed.. and watch as soon as you hit 56 if the tech drops a couple hundred rpm and then bumps back up a bit... and if you go down a hill foot to the floor does the tach drop off as you go over 56.. if thats the case, its a simple speed limiter.. the dealer or anyone with an IHC tuner can turn that off... you should be good to about 2600-2800 RPM on a T444E..

ford ran the 7.3's up to 3400...

P.S. i shou;d note.. dont turn off the REV limiter, just the speed limiter... and if your cruise only works on throttle setting and not cruise, they can enable that too... then you pull the cap off of the light above the controls.. and you have cruise control on the highway..
-Christopher
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Old 09-29-2016, 10:53 AM   #95
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oricha1984 View Post
Hey Christopher,

The seal went off in NC. I was 500 miles away from home.
It leaked bad. I started with 1 quart every 20,30,40 mins. But the I realized it would dump a lot of trans fluid when ever I stopped. Therefore, some was staying in there while I was driving. Soooo
I increased the time to 1 quart every hour.
I drove all night.
I MADE IT HOME to central Florida.

500 miles with leaking bad trans fluid.
I think that buss has BIG FUKING BALLZ !!!!

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you may want to drain the fluid and then make sure the leak is really that bad... automatic transmissions often have a vent on them... if you overfill them they will belch fluid out of the vent... if you totally overfill it, then it will spill lots of fluid oput of the dip stick when it gets hot and you stop...

too much fluid can also cause the front pump to over-pressurize and blow fluid out the seals...

alot of these old busses will have a few drops of fluid or oil on the ground after you stop.. always check the levels with the stick before dumping a bunch in..

the auto trans you should check while the engine is on and the bus is warmed up.. after you get the fluid to its proper level.. park the bus overnight... then start it up in the AM and watch to see at what rate the dripping is from underneath.. to lose a quart every hour it will be dripping pretty good..

it may be coming from a cooler line or such too and not necessarily the front seal.. you wont know till you can really clean up the mess underneath and then start fresh and watch where the leak is from..

im glad you and your bus made it back here to sunny florida!!
-Christopher
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:02 PM   #96
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Glad you both got your buses home safely!
Lets have a BBQ real soon!! I'll buy.
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:08 PM   #97
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Glad you both got your buses home safely!
Lets have a BBQ real soon!! I'll buy.

do it!! i can make up a big ole pot of mac N cheese!!

-Christopher
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #98
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Hempstead Tx
Posts: 213
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: t444e
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
does your tach drop when you hit 56? watch it close... run it up to full speed.. and watch as soon as you hit 56 if the tech drops a couple hundred rpm and then bumps back up a bit... and if you go down a hill foot to the floor does the tach drop off as you go over 56.. if thats the case, its a simple speed limiter.. the dealer or anyone with an IHC tuner can turn that off... you should be good to about 2600-2800 RPM on a T444E..

ford ran the 7.3's up to 3400...

P.S. i shou;d note.. dont turn off the REV limiter, just the speed limiter... and if your cruise only works on throttle setting and not cruise, they can enable that too... then you pull the cap off of the light above the controls.. and you have cruise control on the highway..
-Christopher

Now that i think about it, thats what it feels like it does, but i dont remember the tach dropping, might not have noticed though. As for the hill test, that could prove tricky around here.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:02 PM   #99
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
you may want to drain the fluid and then make sure the leak is really that bad... automatic transmissions often have a vent on them... if you overfill them they will belch fluid out of the vent... if you totally overfill it, then it will spill lots of fluid oput of the dip stick when it gets hot and you stop...

too much fluid can also cause the front pump to over-pressurize and blow fluid out the seals...

alot of these old busses will have a few drops of fluid or oil on the ground after you stop.. always check the levels with the stick before dumping a bunch in..

the auto trans you should check while the engine is on and the bus is warmed up.. after you get the fluid to its proper level.. park the bus overnight... then start it up in the AM and watch to see at what rate the dripping is from underneath.. to lose a quart every hour it will be dripping pretty good..

it may be coming from a cooler line or such too and not necessarily the front seal.. you wont know till you can really clean up the mess underneath and then start fresh and watch where the leak is from..

im glad you and your bus made it back here to sunny florida!!
-Christopher
Hey Christopher,
Thank you for all the info man. When I first noticed the leaking, it was only drops. Since I don't know much about cars, I always ask someone else to be another set of eyes. I had truck drivers, autozone people, and mechanics look at it when it began.

Initially, when we checked, it was bone dry in there. The mechanic did mention other options where it could be leaking from.

At this point, I'm weighting my options to weather the bus is worth dumping any more money into.

Apparently everyone (mechanic, drivers, etc) said: "you have a nice engine here".

Thanks dude,
I was glad to read your posts, and damn, you know about all these stuffs!!!

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Old 10-01-2016, 05:37 AM   #100
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Location: Hempstead Tx
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Year: 2000
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Engine: t444e
Why you know so much Chris? running it up on flat, got to ~2600 then drops to ~2100 at 56, creeps back to ~2250 and stays there.
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