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Old 05-28-2016, 06:32 PM   #31
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 201
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Use the edge of the wheel and work side to side enough to cover the actuall bolt and don't worry about the ears left on the bolt head and if you think your close use a center point chisel with hand guard or at least some pliers and a 2 lb sledge to pop it through?
Just an idea? I didn't have to deal with chair rails butt have done a lot of grinding in crazy places.
If you use the edge of the wheel it will stay flat and if use use it on its side it will bevel the edge of the disk.
Maybe keep one for flat grinding and one for side grinding and the flat grinding ones always make good leftovers for side grinding.




these bolts are literally in the channel about 1/4-1/2 an in. inside. I have no option but to use the edge of the disk. when i got the chairs out i went through like 2 disks that was it. also the the rails are inside the grooved tracks inside the plywood making it even worse to set them free. I have also used the a rubber mallet + chisel it. the issue turns into the rails are glued to the wood which is in turn screwed through the floors as well. its a veritable poop show lol.
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Old 05-28-2016, 08:10 PM   #32
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Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:21 PM   #33
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
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Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
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Originally Posted by dgorila1 View Post
Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?
Yeah, all the stuff below it, wiring, tanks, breaks line, tires and so forth. They really wanted my skoolie to stay together. Lol
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:11 PM   #34
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On older buses I've found a large pry bar gets the seat foot bolts loose quickly, especially for heavily rusted bolts. Most of them will just break loose. Yeah, farm ways.

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Originally Posted by dgorila1 View Post
Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?
I like your style.
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:33 PM   #35
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 201
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
On older buses I've found a large pry bar gets the seat foot bolts loose quickly, especially for heavily rusted bolts. Most of them will just break loose. Yeah, farm ways.



I like your style.
Yeah, no such luck with my prybar lol i wish. Trust me, ive tried a few different methods and they didnt work or i didnt have a blow torch and a protective tarp lol
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:40 AM   #36
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Bemidji MN
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Carpenter Body
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65 to Zero. Folding Chair
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I've had the same disc on my angle grinder for two bus ceilings and two full seat removals. Its a $3 disc.
Not trying to flame or start an argument or anything, but yall are doing something drastically wrong if you need anywhere near $200 in discs.
See my thread- ALL those rivets and seats.... One disc. I did have to buy a few abrasive paint removing discs for the tar under the roof.
Of course, your mileage will vary.
I got by with one grinding wheel for the seats and most of the floor removal. I started burning through the wheels when I started removing the outer skin. I don't know if it was the angle of attack or stiffened rivets or what but, those wheels chewed down pretty quickly.

I cant imagine how it would have been if the interior panels were riveted. Mine panels were screwed.
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:39 AM   #37
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 6,486
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
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Originally Posted by New2Skool View Post
I got by with one grinding wheel for the seats and most of the floor removal. I started burning through the wheels when I started removing the outer skin. I don't know if it was the angle of attack or stiffened rivets or what but, those wheels chewed down pretty quickly.

I cant imagine how it would have been if the interior panels were riveted. Mine panels were screwed.
YEah, after working on all three major brands of buses, I can say that the AmTran/Ward/Internationals have the most rivets. By far.
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Old 05-29-2016, 12:40 PM   #38
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YEah, after working on all three major brands of buses, I can say that the AmTran/Ward/Internationals have the most rivets. By far.
Look at a Blue Bird All American from the 80's.
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:39 PM   #39
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 6,486
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Look at a Blue Bird All American from the 80's.
I have.
I've de-riveted the inside of one.
This Ward has to have some sort of record # of rivets.
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:22 PM   #40
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 3,403
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
If I ever decide to take mine apart I just need a star tool.. Appears the whole inside of my bus is star bits... I took a few out on the chair rail to mount a bracket abd they came out pretty easily..
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