Is our budget doable or even realistic?

[Dapplecreek]

Same bus being discussed here: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f14/no...tml#post150318

[Arvik]

i definitely found it to be speed verse the life of disc. grind on the edge waaay faster and eats the **** out of discs , but grind on the angle how your supposed to takes a bit longer and saves them.. all about what the time is worth.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by jester

i definitely found it to be speed verse the life of disc. grind on the edge waaay faster and eats the **** out of discs , but grind on the angle how your supposed to takes a bit longer and saves them.. all about what the time is worth.

It grinds the most efficiently, both for the tool and your time, by using it the right way.
Now that I've done it on a couple buses, I could probably get the seats out in a quarter of the time it took me the first time around.
Some useful info on here-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8i7Ga1UqEE

I've thought about it more and I think I DID in fact replace my old disc last year.

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

DANG! $200 on Grinding discs?? Are they diamond??

And sanders and incidental tools. I have to grind out every bolt in my chair rails they go fast.

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I've been using the same angle grinder since my first bus back in 03' or 04'. Its a semi-cheap Hitachi.
I have a local friend here who was using their angle to get the seats out. He said they kept going through discs. Turned out he wasn't using it at an angle but was grinding with the flat part of the disc!

Ouch, and no im using the cutting portionnof the disk. I just have over 200 seated, in channel bolts i needed to remove.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Azuleslight

Ouch, and no im using the cutting portionnof the disk. I just have over 200 seated, in channel bolts i needed to remove.

Ten four. Like I said- I'm not trying to be argumentative or anything.
It just that I've gotten two 35' chair rails, all the seats out of two buses, and countless rivets on one disc.
All that demo work in my thread- that's from essentially one disc.
But, enough of this- Looking forward to seeing your progress. Its always nice to see someone working hard on something cool.

[Jolly Roger]

Originally Posted by jester

that what i was wondering. or did they come with grinder?

Thin cut off wheels work great for cutting seat legs but are wasted if trying to cut bolt heads?
Get a regular 1/4" grinding disk for the bolt heads and just have someone underneath turning wrenches while your topside and only cut the ones that are stubborn.

[Jolly Roger]

Use the edge of the wheel and work side to side enough to cover the actuall bolt and don't worry about the ears left on the bolt head and if you think your close use a center point chisel with hand guard or at least some pliers and a 2 lb sledge to pop it through?
Just an idea? I didn't have to deal with chair rails butt have done a lot of grinding in crazy places.
If you use the edge of the wheel it will stay flat and if use use it on its side it will bevel the edge of the disk.
Maybe keep one for flat grinding and one for side grinding and the flat grinding ones always make good leftovers for side grinding.

[cadillackid]

I mus be doing it wrong too.. because when I grind I go through a ton of wheels and use up a LOT of air... my comressor just runs constantly and my grinder gets ice cold in my hand...

-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I mus be doing it wrong too.. because when I grind I go through a ton of wheels and use up a LOT of air... my comressor just runs constantly and my grinder gets ice cold in my hand...

-Christopher

I'm using an electric one.
But yeah, I mean no big deal or anything... But if you do it the right way one disc can last a good long while.

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger

Use the edge of the wheel and work side to side enough to cover the actuall bolt and don't worry about the ears left on the bolt head and if you think your close use a center point chisel with hand guard or at least some pliers and a 2 lb sledge to pop it through?
Just an idea? I didn't have to deal with chair rails butt have done a lot of grinding in crazy places.
If you use the edge of the wheel it will stay flat and if use use it on its side it will bevel the edge of the disk.
Maybe keep one for flat grinding and one for side grinding and the flat grinding ones always make good leftovers for side grinding.

these bolts are literally in the channel about 1/4-1/2 an in. inside. I have no option but to use the edge of the disk. when i got the chairs out i went through like 2 disks that was it. also the the rails are inside the grooved tracks inside the plywood making it even worse to set them free. I have also used the a rubber mallet + chisel it. the issue turns into the rails are glued to the wood which is in turn screwed through the floors as well. its a veritable poop show lol.

[dgorila1]

Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by dgorila1

Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?

Yeah, all the stuff below it, wiring, tanks, breaks line, tires and so forth. They really wanted my skoolie to stay together. Lol

[Robin97396]

On older buses I've found a large pry bar gets the seat foot bolts loose quickly, especially for heavily rusted bolts. Most of them will just break loose. Yeah, farm ways.

Originally Posted by dgorila1

Any reason a cutting torch couldn't be used to remove the bolts?

I like your style.

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

On older buses I've found a large pry bar gets the seat foot bolts loose quickly, especially for heavily rusted bolts. Most of them will just break loose. Yeah, farm ways.



I like your style.

Yeah, no such luck with my prybar lol i wish. Trust me, ive tried a few different methods and they didnt work or i didnt have a blow torch and a protective tarp lol

[New2Skool]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I've had the same disc on my angle grinder for two bus ceilings and two full seat removals. Its a $3 disc.
Not trying to flame or start an argument or anything, but yall are doing something drastically wrong if you need anywhere near $200 in discs.
See my thread- ALL those rivets and seats.... One disc. I did have to buy a few abrasive paint removing discs for the tar under the roof.
Of course, your mileage will vary.

I got by with one grinding wheel for the seats and most of the floor removal. I started burning through the wheels when I started removing the outer skin. I don't know if it was the angle of attack or stiffened rivets or what but, those wheels chewed down pretty quickly.

I cant imagine how it would have been if the interior panels were riveted. Mine panels were screwed.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by New2Skool

I got by with one grinding wheel for the seats and most of the floor removal. I started burning through the wheels when I started removing the outer skin. I don't know if it was the angle of attack or stiffened rivets or what but, those wheels chewed down pretty quickly.

I cant imagine how it would have been if the interior panels were riveted. Mine panels were screwed.

YEah, after working on all three major brands of buses, I can say that the AmTran/Ward/Internationals have the most rivets. By far.

[crazycal]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

YEah, after working on all three major brands of buses, I can say that the AmTran/Ward/Internationals have the most rivets. By far.

Look at a Blue Bird All American from the 80's.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by crazycal

Look at a Blue Bird All American from the 80's.

I have.
I've de-riveted the inside of one.
This Ward has to have some sort of record # of rivets.

[cadillackid]

If I ever decide to take mine apart I just need a star tool.. Appears the whole inside of my bus is star bits... I took a few out on the chair rail to mount a bracket abd they came out pretty easily..