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Old 09-07-2015, 07:49 PM   #1171
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,615
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
X's aside LOL, you are doing an incredible job.

I'm still eyeing that '52 Ford but cant seem to find the owner. It still sits there....all alone.....

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Old 09-07-2015, 08:55 PM   #1172
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moodus, Ct.
Posts: 1,045
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford e-450
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 14
Go to your local auto machine shop to find a freeze plug. The last shop I worked at had 100's of sizes. And if you only need one, your looking at under $5 bucks.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:22 PM   #1173
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,573
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Crazy thing is, I tried 3 auto parts stores and none had anything smaller than about 1-1/4". And while I failed to ask, none mentioned being able to order one. However...I did just get one lined up this evening at my friendly neighborhood bar (should have gone there earlier). A friend who has an auto repair shop said he'd pick up a couple of types but recommended a screw together brass arrangement over the hammer in type. Said he used the same size & type on his '76 Olds Cutlass years ago and it's still hanging tight.

Thanks to all.

BTW...Opus...you really NEED that '52 bud. Get on it!
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:00 PM   #1174
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Rated Cap: 14
Dorman Products - 555-014.1
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:56 PM   #1175
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,573
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
"Uhhh, Houston. We have a problem."

And it is worrisome. The custom door that I spent months working on no longer fits properly. It has been sitting...make that..standing, for about a year and when I went to begin actually installing it discovered it has somehow torqued out of shape and will no longer lay into the opening correctly.

I checked it after every procedure and it fit perfectly every time. Now...one side is out about 3/8th of an inch. Or as my sheetmetal/fabricating guru calls it...it is "racked". My term for it was also in the past tense, but not nearly as polite.

I cannot start over on that monster, so now I have to somehow figure a way to lock it down and "rack" it back where it should be. And I cannot screw up the opposite side while doing it or I'm really screwed. The thing that made it such a bear to begin with is that my antique bus does not have straight sides. There is the slightest vertical curve to the body which the door does still fit like a glove. But...the front edge, the one that is now out... is straight. The combination of curved & straight made for some very tricky metal work on the door. The only thing I can attribute any movement to is the fact that I cut a large window opening at the top after it was skinned. I did check it afterwards, and at that time it did fit, once again perfectly...but the cutout must have relieved some force that allowed the frame to twist over time.

Sheeesh. Not at all what I needed right now.

Here are a couple of pix, the curvature on the back edge is almost imperceptible. But trust me, it is there, and a RPITA to work with.


Before the window...


...after the window.

Since I don't have a large enough table to clamp this big, heavy sucker down, my local sheetmetal guy offered to let me come in after work one day in the next week or so, and see if we can force it back into shape with some hydraulics.

If not...well...
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:06 PM   #1176
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 10,095
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Best of luck, I don't think you'll need it though. You're one crafty guy when it comes to building stuff, man.
I guess if all else fails, grind it till it goes??
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:19 PM   #1177
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 910
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: 3208 CAT/MT643 tranny
Rated Cap: 87
Need some help Tang? Let me know and I'll schedule some time in on a Saturday. I'm thinking a little heat and some coaxing should do the trick. I LOVE working with metal. PM me if you want. I'll check back tomorrow..

M1031

P.S. this Saturday I have a band trip, so it'll have to be after that.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:21 PM   #1178
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,615
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
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Whats the other side look like? Could you put some square tubing or channel on the back to un torque it or is that not what your plans consisted of?
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:24 PM   #1179
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Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,904
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Hey Tango. Sorry to hear about the door. Let me offer a suggestion that you probably already know. When you use the hydraulic press to re shape the door, just press it a little farther than you want it to bend and then leave the pressure on over night.. Apparently this process lets the molecules in the metal get used to their mew position and when you release the pressure there will be very little movement in the piece.

I didn't learn this the easy way. After watching me tear out several door pillars on my new frame rack, an old body man with a thousand years of experience gave me that quick lesson--I never again pulled stuff in half. Give it a try--or two. Jack
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:39 PM   #1180
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
We all have faith in you, you will over come this issue.

What I love about this build is you don't rush anything.

Haste just makes waste.

As some wise man once said.
"Be not afraid of moving slowly. Fear only standing still."

I live by that and do well in life.

Nat
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