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Old 09-10-2015, 09:17 AM   #1181
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Many thanks to all of you. It appears that a combination of your suggestions may be pretty much what the doctor ordered. I got with an old artist buddy here last night who is a serious car builder and was an oil field & offshore specialty fabricator for many years. His recommendation was to use both heat and pressure. The pressure to get it into the position and the heat to "relax" the metal into the desired shape/location. And to leave it in that position overnight. He also confirmed Jack's info that you do have to go beyond the final position a bit to overcome it's natural springiness & memory but that the heat will help realign the molecules into the shape wanted. He emphasized that he was not talking about anything near cherry red heat. Just bringing it up to 2-300 degrees overall then once in position, allowing it to cool slowly and set overnight.

Definitely worth a shot but I still need to build or borrow a table large enough & sturdy enough to clamp this sucker down and work on it.
I will update with any new info or pix as this progresses. If it works, the process may come in handy for others as well.

Again, my thanks to all.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:38 PM   #1182
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More Piddlin' --- with still no major metal to abuse, I had to take out my angst on something else. In this case, it was the passenger side inner fender. My original was a mess. Bent up badly, long cracks & rusted through along the bottom of the louvers. I had ordered what appeared to be a much better set off of Epay that were listed as "1942-1946" but, as is often the case on that site...they were not what was advertised. They are actually for 1940-41 and slightly different. Just enough they would never fit right. So...with cutting wheel in hand, I ever so gently removed a portion that I could make work then welded it into my existing, beat up piece.

I am NOT a body man so thank goodness this will be hidden most of the time. But...it did the job. Nice new louvers and much better metal now.


The light colored portion is what was cut and replaced. At the same time I rebuilt one of the front mounting brackets. Once sandblasted and painted, it should be OK for under the hood/fenders.

ONWARD!
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:18 PM   #1183
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Howdy All - Got my stainless downpipe back from Poly Dyn today. Had it coated inside & out with ceramic. Then I bundled it up in heat wrap. Between the two it should cut the radiant heat down by about 400 degrees. With any luck, Ill get it mounted tomorrow and can finalize the rest of the exhaust measurements. Will likely add a metal heat shield as well since the downpipe runs so close to the doghouse. Don't want it to all meltdown.


Here is the pipe with the ceramic coating...


...and here it is all wrapped up along with the muffler.


Even though diesels are not required to have mufflers, I wanted to tone down the rumble just a bit. This is the equivalent of a "Glasspack" for diesels. Just a straight through resonator.

ONWARD!
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:06 AM   #1184
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She will sound great.

Nat
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:45 PM   #1185
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Minor progress --- Hooked up the downpipe today so I can work up measures & angles on the rest of the exhaust system which will be fairly straightforward. A few 45 degree elbows, a little straight pipe and a shiny SS tip to hang out in front of the driver side rear tires.


All wrapped up and no place to go. Yet.


Tried the muffler on while I was under there. Just need more pipe and clamps and hangers...and money...and time.

And I also figured out a way to save a little money. Use electrical conduit for the driveshaft!

ONWARD!
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:01 AM   #1186
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I discovered that I could save even more money by using flex conduit. It eliminates the need for "U" joints. Also, you could use that huge tranny oil pan as a Thanksgiving turkey roaster thereby saving even more bucks. Jack
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Old 09-16-2015, 04:47 PM   #1187
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I like your thinkin' Jack!
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:59 PM   #1188
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Finally made a little headway --- At least on the steering system. Had to break down & hire an extra pair of hands in order to get everything lined up on this 80# steering box. It's from an '03 Isuzu NPR and quite heavy duty in addition being just plain heavy. It is similar if not identical to the one on Ol' Trump's 1935 Chevy that he transplanted onto an Isuzu chassis.


Had to notch the "fishplate" that extends along and below the frame to clear the adjuster. (Does anyone know where the heck the name "fishplate" came from?)


After a great many "off & on's", we finally got the two 1/4" plate sections lined up & cut. Here they are tacked together.


One more test fit against the frame...


...and one on the gearbox. Looks like we have a "Go" for launch. It is all welded up and ready to begin attaching to the chassis but that will be another day. Still waiting on my firewall & doghouse and can't line up the steering column/wheel until they show up.

Better hurry folks...I'm getting older by the hour.

Till then...

ONWARD!
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:30 PM   #1189
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Nice job!

"In rail terminology, a fishplate, splice bar or joint bar is a metal bar that is bolted to the ends of two rails to join them together in a track. The name is derived from fish, a wooden bar with a curved profile used to strengthen a ship's mast."

Glad I could help.
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:38 PM   #1190
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Thanks Opus --- Had not considered marine terminology as a source. We had a mast of sorts on the aircraft carrier I was on, but never heard anything about "fish" except for Fridays' meal choices.
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