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Old 04-17-2012, 11:49 PM   #111
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Thanks for the feedback guys ---

DAN...actually I got the idea from another bus from that period. It had rear cutouts that were much more like what was in front...big & open & teardrop ("streamlined"). For whatever reason, the original (I'm assuming "original") on this body was way out of proportion. Hopefully it will be an asset when the time comes to change a rear tire.

ol trunt --- I have already had the outer side panel replacement sheet metal fabbed and it is ready to install. I am going to wait until most of the underbody work (tanks, mostly) is done to put it on just for the ease of access. I plan on just welding it in place directly to the ribs. The original plan had it fastened with screws to the framework and fitted into each rib, but in such a way that you'd have to take the danged whole bus apart to remove or repair any of them. I figure cutting & patching will actually be simpler in the future than the routine the original would require. Each panel has a folded, 90 degree lip along the bottom edge that provides rigidity, plus there are body spacers I have also re-made that back each up, but out of galvanized. Finally, there is a vertical backer that puts a slight amount of tension on each panel to minimize vibration. Had to re-make several of those as well. All in all, it's been a lot of work to date. Most of which will be unseen, but necessary. Can't wait to get on to doing something that will actually show!

The fuel tank is the aluminum one and should be fine without any lining. I'm converting to a diesel engine and it is very aluminum friendly. The black/gray tank is very heavy walled ABS. Found both in absolute perfect sizes on Epay at excellent prices...it just took 9 months of searching.

Onward!
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:47 AM   #112
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

The new profile looks tons better....the original body must of been made by a company that later started to make small popups, the wheel openings look the same
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #113
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Bansil --- Roger the "pop-up" look. Tiny openings, but at least they had tiny wheels to go in them.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:26 PM   #114
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

I'm going to follow your lead here. working on the tanks etc. with the side skins off sure looks like the way to go. I'm still not quite clear as to how you are going to seal the floor to the sides. I plan just to leave the area below the floor as a single panel with braces to the 90 degree angle at the bottom-- are you using a double panel?

I made up dies to stamp the original body lines into the new panels I'll install. While moving the stamp and die from the work bench, the stamp rolled over in the die and caught my fat little tummy--ever seen a ten inch blood blister? OUCH! I've yet to try the stamp and die in the press but if it works as good on the sheat metal as it dit on my tummy I am hopefull.

I'd like to hear more about your diesel plans at some point.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:01 AM   #115
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Trunt --- Ya...having the side skin off definitely makes any underbelly work easier. As for closing everything up, there are also interior panels that need to be fabbed as well. They will be filled with insulation where possible, but the windows limit what can go in the space between the inner & outer skins. They will be separate, overlapping pieces that screw into the ribs and floor between each set of ribs. Basically just flat panels with an "L" bend at the bottom that attaches to the floor. I plan on adding thin sound & thermal insulation sheets onto both the inner & outer skin panels then filling the area below the windows with foam where possible and hope for the best.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
a ten inch blood blister
Ouch! I can only picture this...and it's not a pretty sight!

As for the "diesel"...it is a Cummins 4BTAA (intercooled 4 cylinder w/turbo). 130 hp & 355 lbs. of torque. Being totally rebuilt by a local Cummins/diesel shop. Brand new turbo & manifold plus new injectors and a re-manned fuel pump. Should be good out to the "B" rating (500,000 miles). What I like most about this Cummins is the combo of torque with efficiency. Capable of pulling much heavier loads than mine and still yielding 27-30 mpg. And there are zero computers or electronics. It is the older two wire engine...Alt output & a ground wire. The tranny I have finally settled on is an Allison S6-6 speed automatic with double overdrive. According to calcs, it will keep the engine in its' sweet spot of 1800rpm at 63 mph...even with my original 5.43 rear end. It is one tough little motor.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:18 AM   #116
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hanging my fuel tank required a fair amount of welding and such but was pretty straight forward. However...I'm now trying to figure out the black/gray tank and it has me a bit bamboozled. I have very little space between the chassis & tank. Not really enough to reach/work and haven't yet figured out how to handle connecting everything with such limited access. With the fuel tank it was easy...just leave some slack in the hoses so the tank can be raised or lowered as needed. But with the black/gray, it's all hard fittings.

So, the question to the group is...exactly how did you go about connecting the drains to your tank? Did you have enough room above the tank to access it from outside (under the bus) or did you make up the connections from inside? Not at all sure how the plumbing goes together and haven't found anyone locally familiar with setting up a system from scratch so any input, drawings or pix will be greatly appreciated.

All I am hooking up is a straight drop for a toilet with a branch for a shower/sink drain and a vent. And if necessary, I can drop the black/gray down maybe two inches, but the access to the top where the connections go will still be very limited.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:35 AM   #117
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

i suspect that you should figure out your approximate shower, toilet and drain, locations, and see if a tank will fit under that area, and move your floor plan a bit as necessary so that things like your black water tank will fit under where you want the toilet. Then, you can see what you have to make for brackets, and measure and fit drain, vent lines with holes in floor in appropriate places. hope this is what your question is...
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:02 PM   #118
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Your toilet flange should thread into the fitting on top of your black tank. Put your black tank in place (dry fit). Go inside the bus and thread your toilet flange into the tank. Screw the flange to the floor. Go outside and secure the tank. Don't forget to drill the hole for your vent stack thru the floor. We mounted the pipe connection to the tank before hanging it, then glued the vent pipe to the fitting on the tank.


Use the threaded toilet flange (you can use regular house type flange) not the glue on. You will want to be able to drop the black tank in case it cracks or you need to go fishing for something important (like your cell phone or your only set of bus keys). We prefer to use a threaded connection so that we can drop tanks if needed.


Fresh and grey are similar. You have the fittings needed on the tank and then glue/thread from the inside and connect from there. Just like on a house.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:30 PM   #119
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Thanks all --- I have the locations set for the toilet & a shower drain but wasn't sure about what fittings to use since I do want to be able to disconnect everything to drop the tank if needed. A threaded fitting makes more sense than the glue-in fittings I've seen. I guess I need to make a run to an RV supply and look over what's available.

And since I hope to tie the shower directly into the toilet drain, I am considering one of those self-sealing Hepvo waste valves to isolate the shower from the black drain. Has anyone here had any experience with Hepvo products? If they do what they say, they ought to be great for tight spaces, plus you shouldn't have to worry about a P-Trap going dry and backgassing.

http://www.hepvo.com/HepvoUSTechGuide.pdf
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:02 PM   #120
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

I'll look into the helco product as well as it may save ne a lot of grief. Since my shower/potty/sink are all in one??? I had thought about using a marine sump pump to drain the shower water into the grey tank which will not be close to the black tank. I calculated the flow rate for the kind of shower I like to take (bucket and stop watch) and then acquired a small pump that draws just a bit more. I'll wire it into the hot water side of the shower ( on demand hot water). I don't have enough room for a trap but the pump should keep the "gasses" from gassing me If this doesn't work I'll use a snorkel! What da u al thnk?
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