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Old 03-18-2016, 01:40 PM   #1461
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More tid-bits dropped off at the machine shop today --- (Kinda scary tid-bits) After about a week of measuring, re-measuring, drafting, tweaking, test-fitting, measuring again, consulting a buddy/builder and one final measure and mark...I took my Isuzu drag link in for a chop job. I have to (once again) perform unholy surgery to attach parts from the '46 Chevy onto parts from the '03 NPR. Victor Frankenstein would be proud

("It's Frahn-kin-Steen!").

I have to join the antique end off my old drag link onto the new Isuzu in order for it to fit the ball on my bus's idler arm. And they are...quite different. Damn...maybe I should go measure one more time.

Pix will follow...one way or another. Fingers crossed.

ONWARD!
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:39 PM   #1462
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Hey Tango. When I did that to my Isuzu drag link I talked with a structural engineer as how to weld the parts back together. He recommended 4 plug welds on each end where the sleeve slides over the original part or through the original part to the inner reinforcement depending on the application. It was his opinion that a continual weld around an overlap was apt to create a brittle area prone to failure. So far so good with the plug welds. All the plug welds had the inner part drilled 1/2 their wall thickness where the plugs went. I sealed the ends with flexible seam sealer to keep moisture from getting in between the layers. Jack
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:43 AM   #1463
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Howdy Jack --- I opted to go with an adjustable drag link. The shop is building up my old end from 5/8" o.d. to 3/4" o.d. and will thread the shaft so it screws into the NPR portion. It will allow me to fine tune the steering. I can't imagine it ever stripping out but I just might weld it up after I get everything where I want it. We'll see.
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:48 PM   #1464
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Hey Tango. That sounds like a good way to go. If I ever need to adjust my drag link I'll have to rotate the pitman arm a notch or two and hope for the best. Jack
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:41 PM   #1465
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That should work Jack --- Getting the toe-in and camber are a real trick since there are no "specs" to go by. Just make a guess, then watch the wear on the tires I guess.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:03 AM   #1466
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Speaking of "camber"...one more alignment note/question...

Seems I read somewhere (long ago and now lost) that when going from old school tube-type, bias ply tires to tubeless radials on the front...it was necessary to re-adjust the camber. By any chance does anyone here know anything about this?
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:17 AM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Speaking of "camber"...one more alignment note/question...

Seems I read somewhere (long ago and now lost) that when going from old school tube-type, bias ply tires to tubeless radials on the front...it was necessary to re-adjust the camber. By any chance does anyone here know anything about this?
Maybe on the HAMB board?
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:49 AM   #1468
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Give this a go;

1946 Chevrolet Specifications
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:18 AM   #1469
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Thanks leadsled --- I checked the HAMB and have been searching online but have not found anything definitive. Lots of opinions and a couple of vehicle specific adjustments that are far removed from being anything like my bus. Seems to have been discussed a lot by restorers who want a better ride, but no simple answers so far.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:41 PM   #1470
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Thanks Opus...I have the original specs. What I am looking for is what adjustments are necessary to compensate for the change from bias ply tube tires to tubeless radials. I have seen a lot of discussion on the topic but all specific to other makes and models with a lot of variation from one to another. Still no idea how to get it right, or even close on this much modified dinosaur. Hope to avoid learning by quickly wearing out a set of new tires.
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