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Old 04-07-2016, 11:45 PM   #1501
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Piddlin' --- yeah...I'm still waiting on machine shop parts. Meanwhile, it's some little stuff and one biggie.


Finished up the top to my house battery box. Coated the inside with several layers of truck bed liner and added some strips of rubber foam to minimize rattle. Added a couple of small lift handles while I was at it.
Whoopie.


Then there are these little guys. A 10 degree pinion angle shim taped to a three degree shim. The easy part. Now I am dropping the rear axle so I can mount these suckers. Not the easiest task when working alone.
Whatcha' think Jack? Do they need a little more tape or will this do?
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:18 AM   #1502
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Still at it --- Haven't heard from Jack so I decided I might need more than masking tape to hold my pinion shims in place so I did the following...


Ground bevels on the ends and a couple of gouges on each side.


Locked'em in place...


...then melted some metal into the gaps.


A few quick hits with a grinder and a file and...WahLah. Almost looks like one big shim. Now I just have to wait for new U-bolts to see if the new angle will work or not. Seems I spend a lot of time waiting on things these days...

ONWARD!
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:42 AM   #1503
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Ok Tango-I'm gonna throw this in to confuse you. I was doing some research on the set up of my race car. I came across a good (very long) discussion from Ron Sutton race cars about rear end design. Take it as gospel or a B.S.-but I'll throw it out for you.
""Now is a good time to pre-set your pinion angle … before you weld on the housing brackets.
d. Make sure the pinion of the rear end truly lines up with your driveshaft & transmission (top view) so the driveshaft is not running at a side angle.
e. Find a flat surface on the rear end that you believe to equal to the pinion … or 90 degrees to the pinion … where you can place a digital angle gauge (inclimeter).
f. Measure the driveshaft angle.
g. Roll the housing to place the pinion at a 2-3 degree downward ANGLE DIFFERENCE from the driveshaft.

* This is NOT a 2-3 angle from the ground, unless the driveshaft runs level with the ground. If the driveshaft runs uphill (uphill going from the rear end to the transmission from a side view) at 4 … the you want the pinion going uphill at 1-2 ... to achieve 2-3 downward angle difference. ""
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:21 AM   #1504
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Thanks sdwarf ---- That is precisely the plan. I am basing all my numbers on careful measurements of the Jackshaft and rear U-joint angles. I won't be welding the new shims to the axle until I have pulled everything into place and taken another measure. There is still the possibility that I may have to either add more to the shims or adjust the angle on the Jackshaft down a degree or so relative to the rear axle to achieve the right relationship between the two. The ideal is to have them aligned at the same angle under a load which requires the rear axle to be between 1-1/2 to 3 degrees below what the front angle is to compensate for applied torque which raises the angle on the rear axle.

There is some great info (for any poor souls who may need it) in the PDF below from Spicer...

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:12 PM   #1505
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Tango, do you have the oldest bus on the site?
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:47 PM   #1506
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Hey Tango. How are the pins set up on your axle and spring? On the original application did the spring center bolt drop into a cavity in the axle or did the axle have a nub to fit into the original shim pack on the bottom while the spring center bolt fit into a hole in the top of the shim pack? How are you going to do yours? Jack
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:17 PM   #1507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
Tango, what kind of Ac system are you using? I want to install something to run off my motor to cool the driver's area when I am driving, but don't know what I should look for. I was thinking something off an SUV would suffice, but didn't know how easy it would be to have lines manufactured to go from the back of my MVP to the driver's area.
for my old bluebid I built custom dash air into my Defrosters.. I dont know on your bus if your defroster vents are slots across the windshield or the round twistable vents.. on my bird they were twistable.. so I fashioned a honda civic evaporator into the intke side of each defroster unit.. and used plastic drain pans under each one with a rubber hose going out through the floor and slanting toward the back of the bus.. so it sucked the water out easily when driving.. I ran a sanden 508 compressor .. since that bus had a chevy 454 it was easy to find a hang-off bracket set for the compressor...

in summer I swivelled the round vents on the driver side around to me and it kept me nice N cool.. in winter if I turned on the compressor it acted as a dehumidifier and I never had fogged up windshields...

another route to go is a Limo Base unit which is often ductable with flexible hose.. and angle-bracket style mounts are made for vents so you can run flex-hose up from the evaporator to wherever you want the vents.... (which in most busses theres planty of room for a small unit under the dash.. )

and yet another way is a Jeep Wrangler YJ / CJ under-dash unit.. you can even often find the indoor pieces of those in the bomeyard from wrecked wrangler YJ's.. IHC scouts and jeep wagoneers used a nicer version and can still be found occasionally...

I will caution about using a front radiator mounted condenser on a Diesel Bus though.. most older busses use a mechanical / thermal fan clutch for the radiator fan and has a hard time "sensing" that the A/C needs cooled.. so you can run some pretty high head pressures if your bus engine is "cold" but the bus interior is HOT.. (ie you go out at noon to drive after it sat all night and its blasted hot in the sun.. cold engine hot bus.. High A/C load.. fan clutch likely going to not spin your fan very fast).. so you may want a "pusher fan. electric" on the front of your condenser. if you have an electric / air fan clutch you can fit a pressure switch so the fan is called for whenever the A/C requires it..

another thng is that on many busses the turbo inter-cooler is Beside the radiator up front.. so locating your condenser in front of this may result in the intake air charge for your engine being warmed up quite a bit when the A/C load is high..

my old bus was Gasoline and I had installed a 5000 CFM Lincoln Mark VIII fan to cool it with a vari-speed controller I built so I had a sensor in the A/C to monitor...

I dont know if an electric Mark VIII fan would cool a Bus or not.. im unsure of the CFM of belt-fans on these busses..

just some pointers.. I plan to tie into my skirt-mounted condensor on my newest endeavor to run an evaporator for the front.. so i wont need one in front of the motor..

you can run multiple evaporators in PARALLEL with a single condenser and compressor as long as you use TxV valves to regulate the refrigerant flow through each evaporator.. running closed-loop is even better but much harder to "dial-in"..

-Christopher
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:19 PM   #1508
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Robin --- Not sure, but very likely. If for no other reason than most people have better sense than to try and convert a 70+ year old school bus into their retirement home.

Jack --- the bolt comes down thru the springs and fits into a hole in the shim(s). It originally went into a hole in the pad on the axle. I will be welding the shim arrangement onto the spring pads after I get everything lined up so for all intents and porpoises...they will become the new pad.

Cadillac --- Unfortunately, I don't have defrosters. Or a dash...or a firewall at the moment for that matter. But...the plan is to use an aftermarket dash unit connected to a Sanden (S-10 as I recall?). It will all have to be hand built like everything else on this Frankenbus and I do hope to work out some kind of defrosting system along the way. I just hate fogged windshields.

Of course there is the old farmers trick for keeping a window from fogging up. Rub it down real well with a plug of chewing tobacco. Unchewed, that is.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:52 PM   #1509
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IMG_4117.JPG

IMG_4119.JPG

IMG_4121.JPG

IMG_4122.JPG

IMG_4124.JPG

Hey Tango, this is an S10 defrost my brother did this afternoon for his P/U....no AC going in. It's an '87 single cab short box with a 383 stroker.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:00 PM   #1510
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Looks great. Are those hard drive/computer fans?
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