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Old 05-29-2016, 10:23 AM   #1701
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There is a lot of metal in the pedal, and I let it cool very slowly so it should be fine. And the pounding actually helps realign the molecules according to the guys at the machine shop I work with. After they Tig welded the steering parts they were working on they heated the whole area cherry red, then took a hammer to it for a minute or so to "re-set" them.

If there are any real Blacksmiths here, feel free to chime in on the magic involved.

Meanwhile...back to work.
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:23 PM   #1702
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Not a blacksmith here, but I don't think you're going to break that pedal off regardless of tempering.
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:46 PM   #1703
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As overbuilt as it is...I don't think I could break it either.
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:39 PM   #1704
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I think overbuilding in the area of Brakes is a good thing.. its not a pedal you really want to test the strength on..

I tend to over-think strength.. id not make a very good airplanbe builder as everything would be so heavy you;d need a rocket engine just to taxi...

but maybe i could build tanks

-Christopher
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:08 PM   #1705
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I wouldn't worry about a bit of annealing on something as heavy as that brake pedal. I ended up shortening my brake pedal about 2" and I can feel the difference in the amount of pedal pressure it takes to get the same brake response as I had originally. If I were to do it over, I'd figure out some way to raise the master cylinder rather than shortening the pedal. Jack
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:23 PM   #1706
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I wouldn't worry about a bit of annealing on something as heavy as that brake pedal. I ended up shortening my brake pedal about 2" and I can feel the difference in the amount of pedal pressure it takes to get the same brake response as I had originally. If I were to do it over, I'd figure out some way to raise the master cylinder rather than shortening the pedal. Jack

you didnt piut power assist? I know with the fluid hydrassist systems the amount of hydraulic boost was adjustable on the actuator... the ones im familiar with were the GM cars of the 80s.. a saginaw powe srteering poumo was used wit ha sklightly higher capacity... and then at the master cylinder you could adjust how easy the brake pedal went down... I know some of the guys with street-rods used them because they needed short throw brake pedals... the hydrassist also stored enough built up pressure that you got 3 pumps of the brake pedal under assistance until you were in stand-on-it mode..
-Christopher
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:46 AM   #1707
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I am pretty sure Jack's system is hydroboost. As I recall, he's using what was on the NPR chassis.

Me...I am re-shopping complete master cylinder/hydroboost packages. The Chevy 3500 that I had hoped to use simply will not fit the way it is configured. Of course I could move the engine again, but...
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:18 AM   #1708
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The standard thought for pedal ratio (pivot point to mc/pivot to pedal) is 5:1 to 6:1. I had to push this on the race car due to lack of room-its something you don't want to shortchange.
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:28 AM   #1709
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I am pretty sure Jack's system is hydroboost. As I recall, he's using what was on the NPR chassis.

Me...I am re-shopping complete master cylinder/hydroboost packages. The Chevy 3500 that I had hoped to use simply will not fit the way it is configured. Of course I could move the engine again, but...

most of the saginaw stuff is similar.. which part didnt fit? the steering box itself or the Master cylinder? or PS pump?

-Christopher
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:47 AM   #1710
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It is the master itself. The accumulator bottle hangs too far out on the passenger side and hits the engine. (Have I mentioned how tight everything on this rascal is?) I did just find a couple of units that are configured differently. A Freightliner and a custom unit that both have the bottle centered under the MC and just might work. Still need to get some measurements though and being Memorial Day, will have to wait to get any answers.

But I still have plenty to do. Now that all the steering parts are in place, I am working on where the pedals can go, setting up the throttle (going with cable) and replacing the fuel shutoff solenoid with a simple push/pull dash rod. The solenoids on most diesels have a less than stellar record and can be a major issue if you are out in the boonies. Why even bother with it? My old DD 6v53 had a manual cutoff and was never a problem. Push to run...pull to stop. I like simple.
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