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09-17-2018, 08:52 PM
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#3521
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Tango, refresh my memory. What are your plans for 120v power beyond the genny?
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09-18-2018, 08:33 AM
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#3522
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Howdy Jack --- 120 will come in via the genny and a 30 amp land line run through an inverter/converter magic box. Actually, the only 120 I will be running is that little AC unit and (rarely/possibly) a small heater. Main heat will be an LPG cat unit. Everything else will be 12 volt including the fridge/freezer.
Feel free to drop by and get in the way anytime.
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09-18-2018, 01:15 PM
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#3523
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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lookin good!!! always nice to start making things look shiny rather than taking off someone else's "shiny dreams that done wore out"..
-Christopher
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09-18-2018, 08:13 PM
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#3524
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Roger that Cadillac --- Sooo very tired of removing latex paint. Now it is all gone and I am finally putting real paint back on!
Meanwhile...if you have ever wondered what is under all that nasty a$$ crud (mill scale) on hot rolled steel...there is actually some nice lookin metal under there! Just sit it in acid for an hour or so and...wahlah! Did hit it afterwards with a stripping disk but it was easy peazy clean up. A quick coat of weld thru primer and theses puppies are mounted. You do NOT want to paint over it or weld over it. It is basically compressed rust that will fall off in fairly short order. If you can afford cold rolled steel...it is much more fun (less work) to play with.
On to the next round!
ONWARD!
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09-21-2018, 08:56 PM
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#3525
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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First coat --- Howdy All...managed to get a coat of paint on the roof today. I decided against the rubberized stuff and just went with Behr exterior oil based enamel...with magic pixie dust added in. No...it is not the same as real insulation, but having personally seen this stuff in action in Texas heat...I am sold. May actually run some tests if I can find one of those cheap infrared laser temperature thingys (Note to self...check Horrible Fright catalog).
Front roof has the first coat. Will apply another manana.
Everything from the roof down will get real automotive paint. 1936 Cadillac Colonial Creme. Except for the fenders which will get some John Deere Blitz Black. An old hot rodders favorite for satin black.
And...maybe a little Ferrari red touch here or there.
ONWARD!
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09-21-2018, 09:03 PM
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#3526
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Looks great!
I think in the long run you'll be glad you avoided the rubberized stuff.
Keep the pics coming!
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09-21-2018, 10:47 PM
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#3527
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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Lookin' good!
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09-22-2018, 08:02 AM
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#3528
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
First coat --- Howdy All...managed to get a coat of paint on the roof today. I decided against the rubberized stuff and just went with Behr exterior oil based enamel...with magic pixie dust added in. No...it is not the same as real insulation, but having personally seen this stuff in action in Texas heat...I am sold. May actually run some tests if I can find one of those cheap infrared laser temperature thingys (Note to self...check Horrible Fright catalog).
Front roof has the first coat. Will apply another manana.
Everything from the roof down will get real automotive paint. 1936 Cadillac Colonial Creme. Except for the fenders which will get some John Deere Blitz Black. An old hot rodders favorite for satin black.
And...maybe a little Ferrari red touch here or there.
ONWARD!
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I think ive still got some Blitz in my garage!! sometimes I shot a rod Blitz just cause I weanted to cruise it and wasnt ready for real paint.. seemed acceptable among fellow enthusiasts to show up to a cruise-in dressed in flat black...
-Christopher
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09-22-2018, 08:14 AM
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#3529
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spring Valley AZ
Posts: 1,343
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 2 elderly children, 1 cat
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Woo-hoo! Progress continues......
__________________
Don, Mary and Spooky the cat.
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09-22-2018, 08:58 AM
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#3530
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Thanks for the kind words all --- been raining here for the last two weeks it seems. Just hoping the first coat has dried enough over night to get the second one on.
And yes...hot rodders have been using John Deere Blitz for decades. Really nice, low sheen. Not glossy, not flat...just right. Tough finish and it doesn't chalk over time. Should have known you'd be familiar with it Cadillac.
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09-22-2018, 12:04 PM
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#3531
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 681
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
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looking great. I love the attention to detail and the passion you are putting in to this. keep up the great work!
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09-22-2018, 04:18 PM
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#3532
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Still raining here. People are beginning to get cranky & depressed --- And even worse...paint is taking forever to dry. Put a second coat on the roof today even though it was still just a little tacky after 18 hours (Behr said recoat time was "4 to 6 hours"). Thinking about going ahead and using up the paint I have left which should make for a full third coat. Since the second one only took a couple of hours to apply I figure...why not?
And if the sun ever comes back out, I will run a temperature test on the pixie dust additive. But right now it looks like that could be sometime in the spring.
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09-22-2018, 07:09 PM
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#3533
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I see a lot of potential in all your hard work. If I was closer, I'd powder coat those lights and box for you so you know they'll last.
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09-22-2018, 10:43 PM
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#3534
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
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Getting closer!
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09-23-2018, 04:02 PM
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#3535
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,325
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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Most oil base paints can use a touch of "japan dryer" in them to speed drying time in humid weather.
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09-23-2018, 05:53 PM
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#3536
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Thanks All --- And yes... I have used Japan Dryer for years in oil paints. Great stuff but did not want to experiment with this wacky mix of oil and ceramic beads. Did get a third coat on today (the sun finally came out for a while). May apply a couple of coats of water based dead flat varnish over it all just to try and help keep it from collecting too much dirt. The "beads" give it a fair amount of texture that I am hoping to smooth out just a bit.
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09-24-2018, 07:34 PM
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#3537
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Not much to show for a full days work --- Spent part of it at Horrible Fright. Gave up on the two sources I had fo sandblasting and decided to pick up one of those $25 buck "Toy Blasters". And it doesn't even look anything like the one Han solo had.
Like so many things on this project, the vent hood for the AC has been sitting so long it had rusted over. Needed a good cleaning. But both the guys I was willing to pay had their compressors crash and are waiting on parts. Crap.
Between the toy blaster and my crappy compressor, all I could get off was the light surface rust. Spent another hour and a half with my grinder and a #36 flap wheel fighting the mill scale. I HATE that stuff. At least I got some self etching primer on it. Still have to coat with the pixie dust mix.
Note to self: If you EVER decide to build another one of these...pay the extra for cold rolled steel.
ONWARD!
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09-24-2018, 09:22 PM
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#3538
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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But wait. With cold rolled steel you have to deal with that nasty scale-------.
Until its removed cold rolled is nearly impossible to weld. I'd agree that once cleaned up cold rolled is a thing of beauty what with its smooth finish and well compacted molecules. Being made of pot metal myself I really appreciate good goods when I see 'em.
Fun to see your creation coming together. It'll be one of a kind! Jack
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09-25-2018, 07:23 AM
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#3539
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
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Where did you buy the pixie dust? How much did you add to the white enamel paint? (great work).
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09-25-2018, 09:05 AM
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#3540
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Mornin' All --- There are several makers of the ceramic beads (aka; Pixie Dust). I did some research and found that a company called Isuladd was the original NASA tech partner. Theirs is what I wound up using on my roof. Another is HiTech. Whether there are any differences in the products...I do not know. But Insuladd is the original developer and the one with the most independent research. They package it so that you add one ($20 buck) bag per gallon of paint. Any kind of paint. I used it in with Behr exterior oil based, semi-gloss enamel and wound up applying three coats. Two are recommended but since I had it mixed up I went ahead and put it on. It does create a texture but looks good. And the texture does reduce gloss. Right now I am considering a top coat of water based, dead flat varnish just to try and help keep it clean.
The real world test that sold me was applied to the inside of the corrugated metal roof on an 80-90 year old industrial building here in Houston. Guy who lived in it had applied two coats mixed in with cheap latex paint and the difference was nothing short of amazing. August in Houston can be pretty brutal and it was well over a hundred outside, but when I put my hand on the inside of the roof it felt barely warm (he only had a couple of window units running on the first floor level). I was impressed.
I did pick up an infrared/laser thermometer at Harbor Freight yesterday and will be doing a test but have to wait for the sun to come out again. Been cloudy and rainy here for weeks. It is getting boring.
Lots of opinions on this category of materials but read up and decide for yourself. Oddly, most of the research I have seen is based on an exterior application and focused mostly on the reflectivity index. The application above that I saw was on the interior surface (?). I also applied a similar product (HiTech) to the interior surfaces of all the walls on my bus, both the outer and inner, then applied some Reflectix to each with a 1-1/2" air gap in between. Spray foam is great but was NOT an option in my situation. And even if it had been, based on personal observation, I would have combined the two products.
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