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Old 05-30-2017, 09:14 PM   #2321
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
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Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Must admit that Chris's question crossed my little pea brain too. Oh, and don't forget to install that hydraulic ram we talked about--the one that shoots out from the rear deck and punctures the radiator of anyone who happens to be tail gating.

Jack
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:36 PM   #2322
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Howdy Guys --- The CAC is designed to be just a little larger than the Behr unit that came with the engine. Not much but hoping for a little better flow through all the other stuff stuffed in. Like the rad. The measures for it were based on a Chevy 350 but only because I think that is what was in the donor P30. All of the Cummins were transplants to replace 350's and I "believe" they kept the Chevy radiators.

I had to squash everything down to fit the two into the '46 radiator bracket so the rad is a bit thicker now and will use much larger 1-1/4" tubes. Set it up so the horns on the CAC come over the top corners of the rad. Was originally going to route them in & out the inner fenders (not at all elegant) but with the engine so far back now, I had room for what will be a 9-1/2" deep package that slightly exceeds the original volume of each. Note that I did not go with a four row rad as seen on the drawing. Based on what the builder said, two rows with the larger tubes will cool better.

Also decided to go with a new gen brushless fan. It is 17" in diameter and moves quite a bit more air then the brush motor variety. Can't recall the exact CFM's right now.

Below are the drawings I sent and a sketch of the CAC so they could better visualize how I want the horns.







And I decided against the hydraulic rams. Found a good deal some Chinese anti-tank rockets that will fit into the deck supports. Where?

Ebay of course.


ONWARD!
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Old 05-31-2017, 06:39 AM   #2323
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Location: Brazoria County, Texas
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Year: 1997
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Hey Tango, Sorry I haven't responded quicker. It's been kinda crazy the last couple of weeks. I got the message about the visit from Chris (Cadillackid). It looks like M & Olfart already know, so i'll get the word out to the others. You're fab work is looking great.
Let us know Chris what your time line is. We'll make something happen. We talked a little the last time of doing some kind of party out here at my place sometime this summer. Maybe we can tie all of it together. NO WORRIES. We'll figure it out.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:30 AM   #2324
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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I love the new electric fans... they move a ton of air, i had considered one before i went with the upgraded belt fan on my redByrd.

one thing to think of is to run it on a variable speed controller.. New Gen vehicles are running their fans on Variable speed controllers which limits the surging to the electrical system and the fan motor itself.. the controller will ramp the fan up as needed based on wherever you want to measure the temperature from.

I wired one up for a guy where we used a switch on his accelerator pedal so the fan would go to high speed whenever his foot is floored.. (brings cold air into the turbo cooler as he pulls hard getting up to speed with a trailer)..
-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:54 AM   #2325
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Good to hear they are worth the extra bucks Chris. And yes, this fan has variable speed ability. May hook up to my old Lionel train rheostat.

And everyone here in the Houston area is looking forward to a visit from you BTW. Just give us enough notice so we can sacrifice a cow and get the pit up to temperature.
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:05 AM   #2326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Good to hear they are worth the extra bucks Chris. And yes, this fan has variable speed ability. May hook up to my old Lionel train rheostat.

And everyone here in the Houston area is looking forward to a visit from you BTW. Just give us enough notice so we can sacrifice a cow and get the pit up to temperature.
hey im perfectly happy with a good ole burger and fries at a bar... (im the Opposite of a foodie...) Ha!

the big thing with a stacked pair is to make sure there is a bit of space between the CAC and the RAD, since the fins dont line up perfect on both you need some space for the air to change direction once it flows from the CAC to the RAD.. you can seal around the edges in the gap and that keeps good flow..

the fan needs to be able to pull High CFM even at a bit of Vacuum. (or push if you are running as a pusher).. higher ROM multi-Curved-blade fans seem to do that Job.. most of the good stuff out there like SPAL and BE-COOL have that down-pat.

when running a thicker but smaller footprint radiator you have to Over-cool the tunes at the front (push more air through than the tube can heat up) to ensure a supply of cool air to the middle and rear tubes..

your 4BT should do well with an electric fan, esp since you dont have the screws turned out on it high.

in my testing and observing of the past.. electric fans were great at pulling air in vacuum or pressure.. so their CFM remained fairly constant even with stacked components and partially blocked or bent radiator fins.. likened to a "sweeper" turbine.. Lots of blades, high RPM and small "bite"..

Belt driven fans tended to move gobs of air volume as long as it was close to zero pressure.. so clogged fins, stacked components, etc killed the CFM.. they are lower RPM, have a few blades with a Large bit.. liken to a Box fan..

the new electric fans are supposed to do both... if they are anything like the fans in my Silverado, then the claims are true... those fans hammer when they are on high.

-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:55 PM   #2327
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 65
Year: 1965
Coachwork: Looking for a bus...maybe
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Tango- Rally awesome bus and build. You are doing a most excellent job of shoving 30lbs of s h i t into a 5lb bag.
I'm a little further south or you in Corpus. Glad to see you found Vanco Hydroboost. I was going to suggest them when you first posted up plans for the brake system. It looks like you have room on the firewall? I'm guessing not, or you would have already mounted it there. Probably just the angle of the pictures with no hood in the way. Looks like a tight squeeze to fit the hydraulic hoses from the PS pump down to the HB unit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
rather than mess with these type plunger switches, why not employ a pressure type switch on the remote actuator? if in fact it actuates like a clutch, there will be some type of pressure build when you press the bedpal that will dissipate when you let off.. and that you could locate anywhere...
-Christopher
Because pressure style brake light switches suck. When they stop working, which is often, you get to bleed the brakes again. I had two pressure (new from parts store) style switches go bad on my '65 Scout about 6 months apart. After the second failure, I wired up a brake pedal mounted plunger style.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
And someone else suggested the pressure switch idea...but only after I had the parts made
Plunger style is mo' bettah. Simple, easier to troubleshoot, and not much to go wrong. If you do have to replace it, it only takes a few minutes and doesn't require bleeding the brakes.
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Old 05-31-2017, 02:20 PM   #2328
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wow i never had issues with them.. but then its like anything else.. everyone;s experiences are different...

I think the Scout II's all had plunger style.. I remember replacing a couple of them on our scout because they got stuck on and killed the battery..(except on the diesel scout the brake lights could stay on for days and the battery wouldnt die)
-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:58 PM   #2329
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Year: 1946
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Still makin' deck --- Managed to get a little more metal melted in place today. Several more pieces to go and this is just the fixed portion. The fold up part may wait a while as I hope to get with an engine guru next week.


Lining everything up and trying to keep it square is a trick. I had hoped to send it to my metal shop where it could be tacked together on a nice, flat and square surface but decided to just go for it.

So far, so good.

Shopping for synthetic wood decking to go on top of it all. Something Teak looking ought be good.


ONWARD!
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:16 PM   #2330
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It looks perfectly square from here.
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