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Old 06-28-2017, 12:34 AM   #2401
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,472
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
As custom as our rigs can be in the body and floor plan departments it makes sense that the electrical systems would get that way too. I can imagine that finding somebody local to consult on a custom system, rather than simply a person to repair typical factory production stuff, could be tricky.

Most of what you listed seems relatively straightforward. The easiest way to combine shore power and generator sources is to simply plug the shore power cord into the genny when appropriate. If hard wire is preferred, a transfer switch can be selected. Then it's off to the PDI modules -- do you have any particular parts or families picked already? There are the all-in-one PD4000, PD4500, and PD4135 series or the charger-converter and distribution functions can be selected separately. For example, the PD9200 series charger-converter units plus a PD5000 AC/DC distribution panel.

My personal bias for charging house batteries from the alternator is that I'd really like to see a multi-stage charge control system just like we have when charging from AC mains. That's why I shy away from basic battery isolators - especially the diode-based style, but also the FET-based style. I just don't believe the alternator's regulator is configured for ideal charging of a potentially large house battery. Instead I'd consider something basic such as alternator supplying a DC-to-AC inverter, in turn supplying the AC input of the PDI converter-charger equipment. It's not going to earn an Energy Star rating for efficiency but maybe efficiency of the battery charging from the alternator isn't a big concern.

Maybe you'll want an inverter anyway and some clever switching could allow the one component to be used either in the alternator-to-house charging flow or in the house-to-AC-sockets flow. Note that this sort of setup would probably only be feasible with the separate converter-charger and distribution components; an all-in-one might make this impossible.

The cord pictured looks like SO type cord. It's fantastic stuff for a rugged abrasion, cut, and oil-resistant cord around the shop, but I wouldn't put it in a concealed place. OSHA and NEC are of the opinion that conductors called "cord" don't belong there. How about marine grade wire? www.bestboatwire.com lists their tinned stranded 12/3 at 85 cents a foot, which is actually cheaper than what I'm seeing on Home Depot's web site for 12/3 SOOW cord. Interestingly, they state "The maximum allowable amperage of 12/3 AWG marine grade primary wire is 45 amps outside of engine spaces and 38.3 amps inside the engine space." I'm not sure what temperature rise profile that's based on nor why it's so different to the 12 ga=20 amps rule traditionally used in buildings.
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:32 AM   #2402
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
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In the 120 volt world of code for houses , 15 amp is 14 gauge, 20 amp is 12 gauge, 30 amp is 10 gauge. 40 amp is 8 gauge and 50 amp is 6 gauge. At the higher amps some people like to up gauge on runs over 25 feet, is for the 40/50 for a range .

The brackets, the way I understand is that the 1000/2000 are the same case. So any navistar truck or school bus with hydraulic brakes is a possible candidate. Or any school bus for that matter. The IC BE series came with 1000s in them and most had hydraulic brakes. Navistar can look about anything up by vin, at least my dealer can, so I if we even so much as find a bus for sale online with the d421 shifter and hydraulics it's a candidate for that bracket and we just need it's vin
Christopher
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:18 AM   #2403
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Ah! The answer to the marine wire ampacity riddle. Firstly, they're a bit mistaken. Secondly, it seems marine wire is commonly rated for 105*C temperature whereas building wire is commonly 60, 75, or 90*C -- and in fact, NEC/NFPA70 does have different ampacities for the different temperature ratings. The higher temperature rating of the insulation allows for higher ampacity while minimizing risk of the insulation turning gooey and dripping off the conductors (or merely getting soft so that a pressure point such as a staple can more easily press through).

The 45 amp rating shown at bestboatwire is based on a single conductor in free space as per ABYC electrical standards. It should be derated for the 12/3 flat cable configuration to account for the two current-carrying conductors and the sheath. It seems that when the deratings are properly considered ABYC and NEC aren't all that different in their ampacities.
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Old 06-29-2017, 10:00 PM   #2404
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
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More body work --- I HATE body work. And I would not be doing any if a few of the parts I so desperately need were ready!

Got after the paint mess with some Aircraft Stripper, then a few passes with a stripping wheel, followed by some rust converter/primer and a quick shot of self etching primer. Which, BTW, is a necessity here in Humidity Central. Otherwise rust forms instantly.

As near as I can tell, this old gal has been through a lot, paint wise. Some areas appear to have been sanded to bare metal, then the geniuses applied water based latex which left an under layer of rust. Other areas appear to have been left alone as they had the latex on top of a thin coat of an unknown type pale green paint on top of the original "School Bus Orange" (yes...it was orange way back in the olden days)...all on top of some red lead primer. That metal was clean as a whistle. Just wish they had left the rest of her alone.

Anyhow, after much burning of fingers (NOTE: latex gloves do NOT keep out Aircraft Stripper...they melt.) and scraping I managed to clean up the rest of the driver side and get the primer on.





ONWARD!
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:22 AM   #2405
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Hope everyone is having a great 4th of July Weekend!!! --- and...getting a little work done.

Just a couple of quik pix...


Worked up a blank for my dash. Curly maple with a cutout on back for some insulation. There will be more to this but it's a start.


Got the last of the paint off the driver side...


...then a few shots of rust converter before applying some primer. Tha's on the schedule for today.



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Old 07-02-2017, 02:15 PM   #2406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Well Crap...

Just discovered that GM has discontinued making/selling the driveline park brake cable bracket I need for my trans. Thanks guys. I mean they are only on about 80 different and recent model vehicles.

Sure would have been easier to order than fab. Might get lucky at a scrap yard but it will probably be quicker just to make one.

Hey Cadillac...do you have a pic of the one on your trans?
just build your own.. i often have made brackets instead of wasting time looking for them, but have built entire cars since i was 20
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Old 07-02-2017, 02:25 PM   #2407
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Love that dash mockup ! Wood is good!

Chev49 yeah I had to make my own for the same purpose as tango. Grrr.. it just sucks when you have to take time making a part that should be easily available....
Christopher
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:57 PM   #2408
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I will very likely wind up fabbing the park brake cable bracket --- but I had hoped to avoid it. Only because I am fabbing so damned many other trivial little items. In fact, today I may have set a skoolie record for the smallest chunks if metal cut and welded. Two pieces about 1/8" square by maybe 3/8" long.


Little bits of what is now my brake light switch bracket.


The teeny, tiny tabs keep the plastic pad from rotating. My brake light switch is metal and I didn't want it wearing through so the pad should take the wear as well as be non-conducting if it ever does.


It's stuff like this that eats my lunch, but hey...



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Old 07-02-2017, 10:01 PM   #2409
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Join Date: May 2009
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Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I totally dig the pastic pad idea!! I am with you on keeping things isolated.. I bread-baorded some vairablew resistors today.. and even though the package claims that the shofts of them arent electrically connected to either pole, i used plastic to mount them so no chance of conductivity between them!..

and welding 1/8" yeaoow.. thats smaller by double what my weld beads are !
-Christopher
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:56 PM   #2410
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Ya..the Volvo switch is all metal (which I like), but if they wear thru they will short out. Heck...I should live so long as to wear it out!

And the toughest part of the welding job was simply holding the tiny bits in place while trying to get a spark...and not fry my fingers. I can usually use a clamp or magnet or some such, but not on those fragments. I have concluded I am much more comfortable with big stuff like the deck. More work but much less angst.
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