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Old 07-03-2017, 10:05 AM   #2411
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small work is always tough.. and less forgiving..

face it if you are working on something that is 6 feet long and you make a weld a 1/16" off its probably still going to work and fit.. if you have a piece 1/8" and you make a weld 1/16" off its probably time to start over....

-Christopher
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:32 PM   #2412
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Curly Maple dash
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:09 PM   #2413
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Here's hoping for fewer tiny welds --- just too danged nerve wracking.
And there is still more to come on the dash. Still working out the shifter for my Allison. It has to go somewhere up there.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:54 PM   #2414
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Got any room off to the left of the drivers seat down on the floor? I ended up with both my parking brake and shifter there just in front of the below the floor start batteries. Jack
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:01 PM   #2415
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Howdy Jack --- I am trying to keep that (very small) area for some other goodies like heat & A/C. Plus I hope to be able to fully rotate my pilot seat to use as a Lazy Boy when parked, so the dash is my first choice. Still not sure if it will work there but then everything has pretty much been that way so far. The park brake lever may HAVE to go there unless I can figure a way to put it overhead.
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Old 07-09-2017, 08:27 PM   #2416
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No...I have NOT been slacking --- Just dealing with minor PITA projects. For example...

Running the 110volt wires from the rear up to the kitchen area. Had to all go along the frame rail. Problem being a major crossmember in the way. I looked at just dropping the wiring below the frame but REALLY do NOT like the idea of four 110 lines hanging out in harms way. The two options were to fab an armored cover or...go through the crossmember. I went through the crossmember.


My main concerns were..1. removing that much steel from a major frame element...and 2...simply being able to get to the work area. It is very tight. Drilled a 2" hole in the crossmember but welded a 1/4" plate to try and reinforce the area. Had to acquire a new "shorty" drill just to get to the rail (any excuse for a new tool...right?).


Then...inserted some 2"id PVC to prevent chaffing and insulate the pass through.


Now my flex conduit (actually some swimming pool vacuum hose) slides through nicely. The four #12 wires fit inside the blue tubing.


And, this is the wires starting point. A non-metallic box that leads up through the floor to the converter/control panel. The other end goes to various boxes and appliances via a similar box below the kitchen area.


All for now. This was far more time (and patience) consuming than it should have been.



ONWARD!
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:51 PM   #2417
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wiring takes a lot of time.. every time IO get into a project that involves wiring i allocate a block of time then dopuble or trip[le it just because i just know my best idea plan is going to get holes shot in it.. by me myself and I..

your idea looks solid, keeps the wires dry and the bus wont bust in half on a bump.. thats all good in my book!
-Christopher
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:42 AM   #2418
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Roger the wiring taking more time than allotted...or desired --- Especially for someone who knows NOTHING about things electrical. That said, the swimming pool vacuum hose seems to be working better than any of the standard issue electrician stuff I came across. Extremely flexible, water tight and made to be dragged around rough surfaces. I guess I'll know how good an idea it was in twenty years.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:11 AM   #2419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Roger the wiring taking more time than allotted...or desired --- Especially for someone who knows NOTHING about things electrical. That said, the swimming pool vacuum hose seems to be working better than any of the standard issue electrician stuff I came across. Extremely flexible, water tight and made to be dragged around rough surfaces. I guess I'll know how good an idea it was in twenty years.

Mr. TANGO,

Glad you are making progress in the strange world of wiring. I do have some concerns about what you have done though. It all seems good on the surface as your pics and comments describe.

Are you pulling just 4 single conductors through the pool hose from back to front of the bus?

You live in a very hot part of the world so do you think that hose will stand the heat from the road, let alone when driving?

That piece of 2" pvc might or might not stand the heat and vibration and breakdown over time, less than 20 years, maybe 1 or 2 years at most.It will loose shape and just flatten down, then fall out likely or rattle in the opening.

Be sure you pull a ground wire into that hose along with the 4 conductors you have planned and ground it at both ends.

I wish I knew for sure that you are pulling 4 individual conductors, say a red, black, blue and whit for example. Or are you pulling 4 runs of 12/2 house wire with grounds of course? I sure hope you aren't thinking that because they will definitely overheat lying in that pool hose when they are energized and then likely melt down or worse. All that hard work you have done for nothing.

If me, I would make that whole run out of 2"pvc, not just where you went through the crossmember. Your pic shows a 2"LB to go vertically at that end so do that at the other end to into the panel.

I'm not trying to be critical but just advising of what could potentially be wrong with your method over time.

Feel free to pm if you need advice or if I can add some clarity before you carry on.

John
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Old 07-10-2017, 12:03 PM   #2420
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whats the difference in that hose vs the "convoluted" tubing or whatever the black plastic ribbed wiring harness is... that stuff in both my busses is still in good shape underneath after the age of the busses..

if he pulled SO through there would that give an extra layer of protection?
-Christopher
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