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Old 11-19-2017, 01:25 PM   #2801
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Along similar lines, I had wondered about using a layer of something like Reflectix covered (on the heat side) with some hi temp, aluminum faced fiber type barrier. You can get that stuff rated to over 1000 degrees.
I used Reflectix between the bottom of my motorcycle gas tank and the top of the engine. That's a tight space and a 145 hp engine.

Worked like a charm.
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Old 11-19-2017, 02:13 PM   #2802
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Most spray foam is very flammable when exposed to an open flame and I have seen some spray and hardboard foam start to deform/shrink/run away from the heat shield attempts for my torching work.
I would be Leary of it personally?
There are products like one from HILTI that has a fire rating but anything that has a fire rating is for construction that is rated to the structures rating.
For example cinder/masonry block buy itself in standard construction only has a 2-hour rating so anything passing through that structure has to be fire proofed to a 2-hour rating and even solid concrete construction is only rated for 4-hours which products are made to seal penetrations for that rating.
Hilti and 3M both have websites with all of there DATA to support there products and they are pricey because they are life safety products.
3M has a product(that I can't remember the name of ) used to fireproof larger openings that is a layer of sheetmetal,there intumescent(fireproofing material) with a layer of chicken wire imbedded in it that is about a 1/4" thick. that is rated at around 1100 degrees? Don't quote me on that? But is very workable with a jig saw.
Then they sell fire blanket pillows in various thickness' including 1" and dimensions that areused to close up cable tray opening and can be pulled out to allow more cable to be pulled through and put back.
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:33 PM   #2803
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Along similar lines, I had wondered about using a layer of something like Reflectix covered (on the heat side) with some hi temp, aluminum faced fiber type barrier. You can get that stuff rated to over 1000 degrees.
That's what I did, but I used Peel and Seal and the OEM heat shield over. Really helps.

Know nothing about this : http://www.engineheatprotection.com/index.html
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:01 PM   #2804
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Good to know. Thanks Guys!
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:20 AM   #2805
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That's what I did, but I used Peel and Seal and the OEM heat shield over. Really helps.

Know nothing about this : Engine Heat Protection, Specializing in Engine Insulation

I may have to try some of this!!!! hush-mat helped with the noise but didnt do a darn thing for the heat in my red bus.. im going to look at this and see.. I surely need it for my DEV bus too.. that doghouse does nothing but blast heat in summer and its air-sealed pretty good..

why couldnt diesel engine manufacturers put the Turbo's up front like the race car guys do..
-Christopher
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:21 AM   #2806
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The foil faced mat on that site is just what I have been looking at. Hey...if it protected Jay Leno's carbon fiber from the turbo, it should work on my tin can. Good info there...thanks to all.
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:17 PM   #2807
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If you ever decide to build your own doghouse on a vintage bus...DON"T!...GO BUY one instead! --- I can't even begin to tell you how great a PITA this has been to date. What with everything being wonky. Not square, not plumb...it has almost put me over the edge,. And I still have a long way to go.


Looks simple, right? Well, it should have been...but wasn't. This is just the base that will bolt down around the opening behind the engine. The actual "house" is yet to be dealt with. Oh...and the rusty metal is just there to try and keep it all from torquing out of shape while I continue welding.


The base is made up of some 1-1/2" angle...welded onto it is some 1" angles...then some 1" square tube that will form the sealing surface (that also still has to be fabbed). A 1/8" gap will be fitted with what I hope will seal this sucker and last a while. No rubber here, too hot. Instead I will be trying out some oven door seals. A pair of them that interlock.

Will it work? WHO KNOWS. I just want to be done with this part. After trying to get tight measures (not really possible) then making a cardboard template...then a wooden template (with adjustments)...I went to metal. Still off by 1/8th of an inch on one edge (short, naturally). Back for more steel. The last steel appears to be OK but I still have several more chances to screw it up.

Some days the elevator...some days the shaft.



ONWARD!
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:51 PM   #2808
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Hang in there Tango. Design & Engineering is always a PITA. Looks like your really making some ground !!!
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:58 PM   #2809
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Looking good Tango..wish I was able to help with that . I used to get paid well f...or work like that.
About the 1 1/2"....will it be welded to the floor?
My thoughts are that if it doesn't look good enough in metal, start some 1/4 or 3/8 bolts [for framing} up through the 1 1/2" so you could maybe finish it in wood or something. Would give more room for heat and noise abatement.
You can't screw up now, this part has to be shipshape. If things don't come just plumb enough, then all you can really do is make it look good to the eye, not the tape measure. You will find more people have eyes than carry tape measures.

What you just built there looks good. Don't be loosinn it..have another toddy and relax.

John
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Old 11-21-2017, 08:39 AM   #2810
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Sorry for the rant guys, I guess I just needed to vent a bit. Most of this work I really enjoy doing but occasionally it goes a route that is less than fun.

Yes...the lower flange of the big angle will bolt to the chassis and the 1" tube will form the bottom half of the sealing surface. I'm having some "C" channel made to fit snugly over the square tube which will be the upper half of the seal. The actual doghouse will weld to that. As noted earlier, there will be two overlapping continuous runs of oven door seal between the upper & lower metal that I am hoping will keep out the heat and diesel stink.

Oh well...back to work.
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