Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-16-2012, 09:49 PM   #301
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,783
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Well...if nothing else, the stuff cuts real easy with a 4-1/2 in. grinder and cut-off blade. Now have a big ol' hole in the roof that I have to make a box to fit into to accommodate the AC. Then assemble another box over that to mate up with the roof deck. Ain't we got fun?

Onward!
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2012, 11:06 PM   #302
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,787
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Tango, I didn't have a problem with "oil canning" when I welded the pop out on my bus. I was careful to let each weld cool a bit before the next and to spread the welds around the edges as I went. I used my small mig (125 amp/125 volts) at a setting of "3" heat and "7" wire speed ( to assure enough wire to make the weld before over heating the sheet metal). Thats 3 out of 4 and 7 out of ten whatevers and no problems.

49, if you run across that spark test info for the '30's I'd appreciate it if you'd pass it along. Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2012, 12:47 AM   #303
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Alabama
Posts: 1,380
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

spark test is just a general test that you can do with your grinder. to learn farmer style, take known steel with high, medium and low carbon and watch the spark length as the amount of carbon will produce different lengths. once you know the general characteristics you can tell the carbon content in a ball park figure.. for welding purposes...
you can get in ballpark for tensile strength and hardness as well.
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
chev49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2012, 11:35 AM   #304
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,783
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Leave it to a farmer to figger out a nifty short cut that works. I'd most likely listen to one of them before a rocket scientist.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 11:23 AM   #305
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,783
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Dropped a bunch o' plans off at the local sheet metal shop along with my door frame. Hope they can skin it without too much distortion. The danged frame had to be straight down the leading edge and have a couple of inward curves on the back edge...that's how the "hole" is. Having it made with a 3/4" lip over the bottom & rear closing sides, the top will have a rubber weather flap. The other stuff consisted of a pair of covers to block out two windows, a box to cover the fuel fill where it comes through the wall and down through the floor and, a great big oddly shaped box that will house the A/C in the rear of the roof. It will also do double duty as the base for that part of the roof deck. Here's a couple of pix...


Big hole in the roof (picture an A/C here eventually). Note that the spacing between the inner & outer roof is not constant. Will likely make fabbing reinforcement for this area a real PITA.


Not quite as big a hole as Jack's, but kinda scary just the same.


Seems like all I'm doing these days is making big holes where stuff used to be...like an engine & tranny.

And...a note regarding paint choices.

In the process of working on this old girl, I discovered that someone, at some time, had either stripped or sandblasted most of the original paint off and re-painted it with latex house paint directly onto bare metal. Mostly down the sides but part way up the roof as well. While sanding I noticed that anywhere there was only the the badly peeling latex, the metal was rusty and pitted pretty badly in places. Nothing through the metal (as yet) but definitely a huge difference between those areas and the ones that still had some of the original school bus orange (they weren't yellow back then) underneath the latex. Those areas were clean and pit free even after 66 years. I have to conclude that the latex is a pretty horrible choice over metal. I felt obligated to pass this along since I've noticed a fair amount of folks going the latex route with their buses. Over existing paint it seems to be OK if less than perfect, but over bare metal...a really bad choice.

Onward!
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 09:36 PM   #306
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,787
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Tango, Good ob on the paint. When the feds began requiring the auto makers to use water borne primer is when we began to see paint delamination (white, silver and black mostly for some reason). Because the waterborne primmer had to be dried before rust formed it was cooked dry. The problem turned out to be that the color coat wasn't able to effectively melt into the primer (some colors) unless the primer was skuff sanded--not something you'd want to do on an assembly line. The problem persists.

My experience with house paint on autos is that it isn't a problem to paint over--except that you have to kill the rust where it shows up with a phosphate reducer or the rust will cause blisters in the new paint job. Also the house paint needs to be old and dry or you can't sand it effectively.

Back in the day of our busses there wasn't a Federal edict on school bus colors and both orange, yellow and green were common. The history of "National School Bus Glossy Yellow" is an interesting read on the Net.

Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 10:02 PM   #307
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,787
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Tango, I've been thinking about our gravity feed gennys. I don't plan to keep the original gas tank on the top of my genny when it is mounted in the box. I'll still use gravity feed but from a remote tank. I think I'll modify a float type gas gauge sending unit to close a relay on an electric fuel pump. The sending unit will be in the original tank just not on the genny. That with a fuel cut off relay (also wired through a high temp thermocouple located in the box) should keep the gravity feed system working and not pressureize the system. it should also reduce the fire hazzard. What do you think? Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 10:46 PM   #308
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,783
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Not sure if I'm following, but that's nothing new. If you're going gravity feed, seems all that's needed is a means to avoid over pressurizing at the carb if the new tank is higher than the old. But since I don't have a clue how the factory system works, I still have a lot to figure out to do.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 11:26 PM   #309
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,787
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Tango, I often fail to make things clear when I write. I guess what I am trying to do is use a primart tank (large) to fill a secondary tank which would be the original tank. The secondary tank would gravity feed the genny. All the rest of it (relays, solenoids, limit switch, modified sending unit etc) make it possible to keep the secondary tank full without adding any pressure to it and the genny carb.

The problem with just using a larger tank is that the extra fuel weight might overcome the float valve in the carb and cause flooding and possible overflow into the box proper (fire hazzard).

On my Yamaha genny there is a mechanical gas shut off right at the fuel outlet on the tank. Yours probably has the same thing? I don't know if that helped make things clearer or------? Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 10:40 PM   #310
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,783
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

OK Jack--- Gotcha' now. Sounds like a pretty straightforward design that should be safe. I was not not clear on using the original tank.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

« Cannabus. | - »
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
All Or Bussed! 1990 Chevy Shorty Bus mellowdaizy Short-Bus Conversion Projects 6 02-07-2014 08:35 AM
Wayne Bodied '54 Chevy Shorty on Ebay Tango Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 0 09-30-2011 10:52 AM
1955 Chevy shorty in CO: check this out! Stuff Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 2 08-05-2011 09:55 AM
1983 chevy shorty A/C question trentwyrick98 Short-Bus Conversion Projects 0 05-24-2011 03:11 AM
New Member, 1959 Chevy Shorty 59Shorty Skoolie Conversion Projects 2 07-25-2007 12:58 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.